CEL flashing when hard accelerating 5.5 -6.5 k rpm 4th gear.

[nwbDSM]

Hi,

Like the title stated, when I accelerate in 4th gear and RPM hits 5.5k, CEL starts flashing (not stayed, just flashing). There is no weird noise. The car doesn't act weird at all. It disappears when I let off gas or shift to 5th. It didn't happen in the 3rd gear though.

Anyone has any experienced guess for what might have caused this.

Thank you in advance.

 

[nwbDSM]

Holly Knock Stop "smashing" on your car...You WAY maxing out your injectors an leaning out...
Your check engine light is set to go off at 5deg of knock retard.
Basically your car has a little microphone that pics up noise called a knock sensor when the Ecu hear your
car detonate it pulls timing in a attempt try to get rid off the the knock...

How much boost are you running? I'm guessing too much to say the least...

Also you can download the V3 application for free Here <--- Click
to Datalog it a much nicer program then the older one...

Since I saw the light, I stopped pushing boost. I just did this so, I can share the datalog and get some suggestions. I just got this car and don't know how much it's actually boosted. It has a controller and I set it to the lowest possible. Currently, if I cruise around 3000 - 5500, the boost gauge stay at 10 psi. But if I floor it, it would go up to 15-17. I also know that the spark plugs and wires haven't been changed for a couple of years, so I will do them soon. Do you think that the spark plugs and wires have something to do with the knock? What kind of spark plugs and wires do you recommend for this car? I am looking at NGK Irradium and NGK wires.

Also you can download the V3 application for free Here <--- Click
to Datalog it a much nicer program then the older one...

Does this application work with my DSMLink V. 2.5 chip? I thought (assume, mostly) that we have to use the same version of application and chip. If this is not the case, yeah, I will download it. At least, it works on my Mac.

 

[MY1GDSM]

I added to my post as you where responding...

Reread what All I said it will answer your question for the most part.

How do you not know what it's boosting?
Yet have a boost gauge? Something isn't right here either your not looking at your boost gauge at the right time or you have a leak in the line... you shouldn't be hitting 130% duty @ 16-17 psi...

Are you looking at the stock boost gauge? because that isn't realy a boost gauge that's just an Estimate based off airflow...

Buy Regular NGK plugs BPR7ES or BPR7S are the correct plugs an NGK 9456 plug wires but that isn't going to solve your problem might help but not solve it...

Yes it will work with your V2 chip. Didn't know you were mac download this instead.

When you open the v3 app just select to log v1/v2 for 2g...

 

[nwbDSM]

you shouldn't be hitting 130% duty @ 16-17 psi...

Are you looking at the stock boost gauge? because that isn't realy a boost gauge that's just an Estimate based off airflow...

This is why I need to start learning how to read the log . Where did you see "130% duty" information?

Apparently, ECMLink doesn't work on my MAC. I don't know why. It was trying to open and then closed itself everytime . Luckily, I am also running Windows on my mac, so I guess I have to use that instead .

So, at this point, what do you suggest I should proceed to solve this . I will get the new plugs and wires for sure. And then what, check boost leak?

thank you very much

 

[rvaughn]

I would suggest getting some new injectors just to clean up your duty cycle issue. A cheap and effective set are the Evo 560cc injectors. I run them with my Evo 3 16g and have had no problems. A BLT is never a bad idea, I have read that some people do them as often as every oil change, im not quiet that aggressive but its not a bad idea I suppose. It sounds like it needs a major tune as well, I would start looking for someone who can help you sort out some of the tuning issues after you have the mechanical under control. Best of luck!

 

[nwbDSM]

I would suggest getting some new injectors just to clean up your duty cycle issue. A cheap and effective set are the Evo 560cc injectors. I run them with my Evo 3 16g and have had no problems. A BLT is never a bad idea, I have read that some people do them as often as every oil change, im not quiet that aggressive but its not a bad idea I suppose. It sounds like it needs a major tune as well, I would start looking for someone who can help you sort out some of the tuning issues after you have the mechanical under control. Best of luck!

Yeah, tuning is my other plan . Anyway, what is "A BLT"?

The car currently has stock injectors, so I guess they are 450cc, right. So, when changing the new injectors, do I need to replace the rail too?

Thank you.

Just keep learning

Oh, got it know. BLT = Boost Leak Test.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Yeah, tuning is my other plan . Anyway, what is "A BLT"?

The car currently has stock injectors, so I guess they are 450cc, right. So, when changing the new injectors, do I need to replace the rail too?

Thank you.

Just keep learning

Oh, got it know. BLT = Boost Leak Test.

rvaughn pretty much covered what I would have said above...

But, a couple things here to address still.

First No need to change the Fuel rail... .
But, your Global fuel and injector deadtime would have to be adjusted if you go to a larger injector for Evo 560 injectors you would go about -18% for Evo injectors and since they are one of the few larger injectors out there that actually have less deadtime about 75 us less... So in V2 link you would just leave that zero's out since IIRC you can't reduce DT from stock in V2link.

As far as logging if you open up you log when its open Click Ctrl+A (in the v2 app)an you should have a whole list of Items look for INJDUTY then scroll to about 130 seconds into the log you'll see the first time where you went over 100% duty.
As I said before you don't ideally want to go over about 80% duty once your at 100% your injector is basically staying wide open you don't want this an when you go over it's not actuity doing anything except beating on the motor and injectors... you'll notice also that right after the injectors hit 100% duty you start to Knock and you Air fuel ratio on your wideband leans out