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CEL flashing when hard accelerating 5.5 -6.5 k rpm 4th gear.

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nwbDSM

10+ Year Contributor
63
0
Feb 15, 2011
Boalsburg, Pennsylvania
Hi,

Like the title stated, when I accelerate in 4th gear and RPM hits 5.5k, CEL starts flashing (not stayed, just flashing). There is no weird noise. The car doesn't act weird at all. It disappears when I let off gas or shift to 5th. It didn't happen in the 3rd gear though.

Anyone has any experienced guess for what might have caused this.

Thank you in advance.
 
In most cars a flashing cel is a misfire or knock warning. I would not drive it till you look into it more.
 
A flashing CEL usual means that the car is misfiring and damage to the catalytic converter will happen. Does it do this often or was this a one time thing?
 
A flashing CEL usual means that the car is misfiring and damage to the catalytic converter will happen. Does it do this often or was this a one time thing?

On the other hand, when I come to think of it, it is not really flashing. It seems like it just came on and off (not blinking).

It only occurs when I rev up about 6k in 4th gear. Nothing happens in 2nd and 3rd gears (at 6k), only 4th gear. So now, I just keep telling myself not to rev up that high when the car is in 4th.

do you think that it may need a better tune?
 
Have you done your plugs and wires and what is your plug gap? Most likely its not the tune its something not working properly or your running enough boost your getting spark plug blowout because of gaping.

A flashing CEL usual means that the car is misfiring and damage to the catalytic converter will happen. Does it do this often or was this a one time thing?

Usually this is only in obdII cars but since he doesnt have it listed im going with the general diagnosis.
 
Are you using a tuning device?

Some have an option of the CEL coming on when experiencing different things (knock, high coolant temps, etc...).
 
Fill out your mod list in the profile. It will make helping easier since we dont have to guess at the setup.
 
3kgt2nv Do you know why cars have codes? It is for emission reasons. A flashing one is a more serious one which will damage the catalytic converter more than a normal code would. A flashing indicats multiple cylinder misfires. OP have you tried to get your car scanned for codes?
 
I will try to list out everything at the best of my knowledge. I just got this car not long ago. I used it daily. Recently, just tried rev that hard on the stretch road and found this.

The car: 1998 GSX with 6 Bolt swap. Was rebuilt by JNZtuning ~ 20k mile ago.

Mods:

- Stock Fuel Injectors
- Walbro 255
- EPROM w/ DSMLink (not sure about the version, could be v.2)
- 16g Turbo
- Hard pipe intercooler w/ Greddy Type S BOV
- Side-mount intercooler
- Apexi downpipe + catback exhaust

that's probably all, I could think of.

Previous owner didn't use the car much during the past 2 years (maybe just got it out for a weekend drive) and we could not locate the maintenance records to see when the last time spark plugs and wires were replaced. I'll probably try to spark plug first and see how it goes.

Do you think that could be b/c I adjusted BOV? I just felt like it's too soft, so I adjusted about quarter turn (hard). Again, I never tried 4th gear at 6k before adjusted BOV either, so I could not tell if it would have happened before this.
 
3kgt2nv Do you know why cars have codes? It is for emission reasons. A flashing one is a more serious one which will damage the catalytic converter more than a normal code would. A flashing indicats multiple cylinder misfires. OP have you tried to get your car scanned for codes?

I know what codes are for. I also understand what flashing and non flashing cel mean.

But i guess me giving him the same answer you did before you even posted earlier means i guessed right?

It could also look like its flashing because if the sensor goes so many cycles without seeing the condition that caused the check engine light to come on it can go out on its own. With a flashing cel they can clear if they do not constantly see the issue. This is why sometimes a shop will say if the light comes on drive it here so we can pull codes.
 
You won't get a CEL for adjusting a BOV.

Get tested to see if your are throwing any codes, the reason you have them is so that you can hook your vehicle up to a scanner to see exactly what they mean. They are there for a reason. Please, at least get it checked.
 
I know what codes are for. I also understand what flashing and non flashing cel mean.

But i guess me giving him the same answer you did before you even posted earlier means i guessed right?

It could also look like its flashing because if the sensor goes so many cycles without seeing the condition that caused the check engine light to come on it can go out on its own. With a flashing cel they can clear if they do not constantly see the issue. This is why sometimes a shop will say if the light comes on drive it here so we can pull codes.


Do you think in my case I can pull the code to see what's going on? What do I need? Is it just OBDII reader?
 
Connect your laptop to the car with your DSMLink, you can view the codes and check to see if the CEL is supposed to come on for something.

Also take a log of when it's flashing, then post it.
 
Connect your laptop to the car with your DSMLink, you can view the codes and check to see if the CEL is supposed to come on for something.

Also take a log of when it's flashing, then post it.

I have never set up this, but will give it a try. I have cables and CD.

So, if I were to log it when it's flashing, I have to do it while I'm driving it. This means that I have to leave the cable and laptop connected while I'm driving it, correct?

thanks for the advice.
 
Yes.

First, I'd check to see if you are getting any CELs while the car is not on. If no CELs, check to see if it's set to have the CEL come on for knock.

After you connect to DSMLink, click capture a log. Once it starts logging, do a pull like you do when it flashes. Then post it.
 
You can't set the CEL to come on as a shift light; what you guys are describing is knock. Link has provisions to activate the CEL for knock or coolant temps. Anything other than that would be a factory defined fault, and would be set in your ECU as a code.

Check for codes, and then make a log. When the light comes on, let off the throttle to avoid engine damage.

From your description it sounds like you are experiencing textbook knock. You use premium right?
 
All right, I managed to do a datalog for my car. From preliminary observation (I mean I don't know much about it), my CELs came on right around 5700 rpm and, when looking at the data, there was a knock signal recorded at that time (range between 4-8, I have no clue what this means).

I have attached my datalog file here. Just so you know, I don't have DSMLink V.3 yet, so the file is *.dat. I hope someone can review it and give me suggestion of what is wrong with that datalog.

Another question is "how valid is the HP data in the log?." I saw that it spiked to 300+ HP which I don't think that this car has that much HP.

Anyway, thank you in advance for any information that you could share.

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I have DSMLink V. 2.5.
 

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Holly Knock Stop "smashing" on your car...You WAY maxing out your injectors! 130% duty? about 80% is Ideal...

Your check engine light is set to go off at 5deg of knock retard.

Basically your car has a little microphone that pics up noise called a knock sensor when the Ecu hear your
car detonate(explosions that beat the hell out of your motor)and it pulls timing in a attempt try to get rid off the the knock...

Your first pull you picked up 9.3* of knock Ret. That's a lot the ECU pulled the timing all the way down from the about 16* it was suppose to have about 7!!!

How much boost are you running? I'm guessing too much to say the least around 20psi?...If you have a boost controller drop it to about 16psi MAX if you can... I see in the log your boost est. acualy hit 25psi! for a second.

Also you can download the V3 application for free Here <--- Click
to Datalog it a much nicer program then the older one...
 
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