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Cars been sitting for a year- What should I change

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Talon00b

15+ Year Contributor
138
2
Jul 30, 2005
London,
As many of you know from my engine thread ( http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1746551#post1746551 ) I just got the car home today and am excited to get this thing working (or see if it can work). So the car has been sitting for about a year, what should I change the guy told me Oil, transmission fluid and something with the AWD? also what tranny fluid should I be picking up
can some1 help me out or point me to a way to change the awd fluids and tranny fluid and whatever else I gotta do.
thanks
B :)
 
http://plymouthlaser.com/
Fuel filter, drain the gas tank.
The "AWD" part was no doubt the transfer case. Should do the rear end too while you are at it. Check your PCV valve and do a boost leak test and compression test. That should make her happy enough to start for you.
 
I had my car sitting for over a year, I replaced all the belts, changed the oil,plugs and wires, and was forced to replace the battery and alternator.

Car has been running strong since, I doubt you will have to replace the alternator and battery, just the basics.


Good luck.
 
As others have said, check or replace all fluids -- Clutch/Trans fluid (BG Synchromesh), check coolant, brake fluid, oil (now would be a good time to switch to synthetic if it isn't already using it), power steering fluid, transfer case/rear diff, etc. Drain the gas and fill the tank with the highest octane you can find.
Also, I would load test the battery (any place like Autozone/O'Reilly's/etc can do this for you), as well as the alternator.
Replace plugs and check plug wires, and check all hoses, especially vacuum hoses and coolant lines.

I might also recommend a Seafoam or MCCC treatment, in the intake, crankcase and gas tank. Works WONDERS!

Good luck, hope she runs well for you!
 
well im proly ganna repeat what every one else said but i'll make it simple.

New Gear oil
New motor oil, filter.
New transfer case oil
New rear diff oil

New Fuel Filter
New drive belts, all of them.
NGK BPR6ES plugs.
NGK wires

Can of "sea foam"
Can of "4 cyl. engine restore"
Can of injector cleaner
Can of "Dry Gas"

-flush the radiator, fill 50/50, half water, half coolent
-clean your intercooler.

-- buy, trade, hustle for all the parts you need.
-- your in for alot of fun. :thumb:

I can relate to your issues right now. my car had sat for 2 years through 2 MA winters.
every thing listed above i did. (besides sea foam)
I also cleaned my engine, sanded and repainted rusted bolts, brakets, clips, ect...
Also replaced the down pipe, flex section got a hole that rusted out.

- It ganna take a long time to get your beast running, but it'll be amazing.
My best advice,....pick an area, learn every thing you can, research it all, Go tackle that area with all the knowledge. then move on to the next issue. :dsm:
 
I am not sure if it snows where you live but there are two different kinds of gasoline, summer and winter gas. Summer gas is less volatile around 9 psi and can withstand higher temps. Winter gas is more volatile around 15 psi and is designed to work in really cold temperatures. Now, if you have winter gas in the summer, the gasoline will turn into vapours in the lines (Vapour lock) and your car won't start. If you have summer gas in the winter, the gasoline will not vapourize as easy as winter gas which will cause cold starting problems. That is your lesson on gasoline (If the gasoline has been sitting for a while, it will give you trouble starting as well). Remember liquid gasoline doesn't burn, it is the vapours that burn. If you try to burn liquid gasoline NOTHING will happen. Anyway, I hope that helps you out there. I recommend putting a little bit of oil in the engine to prime it when you first start it to prevent any kind of excessive friction.
 
SkinnyBAM said:
Is there an easy way to drain your gas tank?

Two ways I can think of.
1g's have a drain plug on the bottom ( :rocks: ). I'm not sure if 2gs have this plug, but I can check on that for you if you'd like.

Another way, if you don't have a drain plug, is via the fuel pump test connector. Unhook the fuel line at the rail, and place it in a gas container. Connect the check connector to +12v and gas will shoot out of the line. if you have a fuel pump rewire, you can also just connect the +12v wire directly to the fuel pump wire, which will accomplish the same thing as the check connector.

Drain plug is the easiest though, obviously :thumb:
 
To extend the life of your transmission, go with Redline MT90, not that thin Syncrosmash.

Thinner makes for better shifting, but thicker protects better, especially for the earlier transmissions.

For a 90, factory spec is the thicker, 90W gear oil. 95 and newer it's the Gl5 fluids (and you can get away with snycromesh, etc.. in the later models).

Just personal preference from someone that has already replaced a transmission and was using BG Synchromesh.

PS And if you do use any gear oil with Synchro in the name, you better change it like every year (funny how everyone here fails to mention that:sosad: ).
 
Spoolin4Ever said:
For a 90, factory spec is the thicker, 90W gear oil. 95 and newer it's the Gl5 fluids (and you can get away with snycromesh, etc.. in the later models).

Good to know. I am having shifter problems at the moment, so I will try the Redline MT90. Thanks for the heads up....I've been using Synchromesh for years and never gave it a second thought until you mentioned it. :shhh:
 
Drift_SM said:
well im proly ganna repeat what every one else said but i'll make it simple.

New Gear oil
New motor oil, filter.
New transfer case oil
New rear diff oil

New Fuel Filter
New drive belts, all of them.
NGK BPR6ES plugs.
NGK wires

Can of "sea foam"
Can of "4 cyl. engine restore"
Can of injector cleaner
Can of "Dry Gas"

-flush the radiator, fill 50/50, half water, half coolent
-clean your intercooler.

-- buy, trade, hustle for all the parts you need.
-- your in for alot of fun. :thumb:

I can relate to your issues right now. my car had sat for 2 years through 2 MA winters.
every thing listed above i did. (besides sea foam)
I also cleaned my engine, sanded and repainted rusted bolts, brakets, clips, ect...
Also replaced the down pipe, flex section got a hole that rusted out.

- It ganna take a long time to get your beast running, but it'll be amazing.
My best advice,....pick an area, learn every thing you can, research it all, Go tackle that area with all the knowledge. then move on to the next issue. :dsm:

Nice bro, nice.:thumb:
 
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