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Car wouldn't rev above 2300rpm tonight.

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PieEyedPiper

DSM Wiseman
5,580
65
Nov 13, 2004
North Bay Area, California
I had parked the car at work tonight and I left it sitting outside for ~8 hours. I'm off work and I hop in and start her up. Everything is normal, and as normal I wait until coolant temps are over 100F before I go anywhere.

So, coolant temps reach 110F and I back out and start driving. I leave work and shift to from first to second at 3k rpm, and then I shift from 2nd to third at 2900rpm arriving at ~1900-2100rpms in third. I'm now going 28-32 ish MPH and the speed limit is 35. I can feel some slight hesitation so I give it a little gas to coax her up to 35mph. But when I did - nothing happened. The car refused to rev over 2300rpm and I even found myself boosting 10lbs with absolutely no acceleration. The only thing that I can think of that could allow that kind of boost to be reached at such a low RPM is severe timing retard.

I limped the car to a near by parking lot and let the car warm up to full operating temp. I revved the car in neutral a few times to about 2800 rpm and everything felt peachy...so I left! I drove the car home flawlessly and the car felt like a rocket during a brief 2nd gear pull on the way back home.

It's pouring rain here. Quite cold, but nothing wild. Maybe 48F? I routinely start the car with a layer of ice on it when I commute to school at 6am. The car is originally from Reno, Nevada ( read: snow) so 48F is nothing really compared what the car has and does see.

What would cause such a thing to happen? Especially since the problem has vanished without a trace. And to be honest, it's not the first time. I've never had it so severe, but I can tell that the same factors are at work. Last year, pulling out at the same time, at the same place, the car was very hesitant but after shifting all was back to normal. The first occurrence was a year ago, and far more tame, but I'm positive it's the same issue.

Thoughts?

EDIT: I did a boost leak test a week ago. This is something else. Oh, and the car has 116k.
 
What upgrades do you have? It could be alot of things. Check your knock sensor and make sure it is tight.
 
^^^What?! BPR6ES spark plugs are the factory plugs for our cars. Quit spreading false information. :nono: Moving one step colder in plug will not solve any of his problems. I would say you had a spout of knock which killed your acceleration. I would try to pull a log and see what your timing is doing when your car has these symptoms. 100k+ it would probably be good time to change your knock sensor anyway.
 
this happened to me not to long ago it was my ic piping. the pipe that connects to my intake mani. so my MAF was reading the air it should but the air wasnt all going into my engine. check for boost leaks
 
check your MAS, MAF and check for any cracks in your manifolds. or worst case it could be your ECU

The MAS connection is secure, both physical and electrical. A good suggestion about the ECU though. It was actually my first reaction to suspect the ECU when it happened. Can 98-99 plastic cased ECUs be easily opened and resealed? I'm very experienced electronically so the inspection part would be a snap.

What upgrades do you have? It could be alot of things. Check your knock sensor and make sure it is tight.

Mods are in profile. Knock sensor is an interesting idea, I'll check for the infamous "goopy knock sensor".

I saw that you were running Ngk BPR6ES plugs. I know our cars dont like those. This may not be the problem but I would upgrade to Ngk BPR7ES plugs.

Yeah.. what big_d said.

^^^What?! BPR6ES spark plugs are the factory plugs for our cars. Quit spreading false information. :nono: Moving one step colder in plug will not solve any of his problems. I would say you had a spout of knock which killed your acceleration. I would try to pull a log and see what your timing is doing when your car has these symptoms. 100k+ it would probably be good time to change your knock sensor anyway.

Another knock sensor suggestion. You're right that it's 'bout time to start checking on things I wouldn't normally be checking. Age is a bi*** :p

this happened to me not to long ago it was my ic piping. the pipe that connects to my intake mani. so my MAF was reading the air it should but the air wasnt all going into my engine. check for boost leaks

As mentioned in the first post this isn't a boost leak. At least I don't think so. I tested just a week ago and fixed up any leaks I had. All clamps and couplers are secure. But I should mention that it sure did feel like a I blew an ic pipe....except that I was building a lot of boost still.


When it happened I felt it has electrical written all over it so ECU and knock sensor are a fine place for me to start poking around since I'm pretty much grabbing at straws here anyways. Thanks for the suggestions guys.
 
how you check your MAf is take off the MAF cable and see if it changes if it dont change then Theres your problem if it does change then you have to trouble shoot some more

My MAS functions properly. If it didn't the car would barely operate, let alone idle. This was an isolated incident. An incident, obviously with cause, but that kind of "check" on the MAS would prove fruitless. However, I'm not opposed to the thought that the MAS could be "flaky" under certain climate conditions. Thanks for adding that in though.

What I meant was that bringtheheat's description was well.. less than descriptive. I wish to know what led him to suspect the MAS for such difficulties. In fact, this is such an odd ball situation to begin with I suspect his difficulties are unrelated to my own. Let us not forget that this thing has only happened to me twice and was spaced apart by 12 months.

I do not wish to sound unappreciative of any of your help or suggestions. I only want to keep this as concise and as pertinent as possible.
 
I had the same problem a while back with my 1.8l, try replacing your ISC.

I've noticed over the last year or so that my idle has been slowly started to fluctuate a bit. It used to be rock solid. So this is a thought I would also consider. Do you know exactly how the ISC can influence the car while driving?
 
i had like your problem before exactly the same , it was the cable of my MAF , the maf was fine but the cable was faulty ( sometimes it used to work perfectly and sometime it wont)

check the cable , it really happened to me and i saw i was boosting 10 PSI while i was on 2K rpm

changed the cables and the car is running fine now ( MAF CABLES)


good luck
 
Doesn't sound like an intercooler pipe because you're building boost but it does sound like a defective maf sensor.

Try to swap one out with a local DSMer to see if it makes a difference.
 
Check out your maf, maybe the connector is a little loose and then it starts bogging. When this happens to mine I just wiggle the connector and all is good again.
 
Can you elaborate a little? Tell me more about your situation. I'd be lying if I said I'd never accidentally dropped my MAS onto the floor.

Sry i took so long to get back to you on this. I was able to pop in a scan tool and it came back with the DTC for the maf. Once the new maf was in place the car was idling fine but then would go back to how it was after about 30 sec and the check engine light was still on. Next thing i did (i shouldve done first) was to check my safc for the sensor settings. Sensor was set on flap instead of karman. Once i set it on karman car idled fine. I tried putting the old maf on with the afc set on karman but the car would still run way too rich. I hope this helps
 
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