Car Won't Start- Turns Over But Won't Fire

[DaDeuceIsLoose]

Ok, I'm going to start from the beginning. About a month or two ago I had an over heating problem. I replaced the thermostat, radiator cap, & "burped" the system. This took care of it for a little bit. But around 3 weeks ago it started doing it again and it was about this time that I realized I had a coolant leak on the drivers side of the car. I figure its the water pump so I buy the parts to change it along with the timing belt, balance belt, and all the necessary pulleys.

So over the past week I have taken the car apart and changed all this stuff out and it appeared that the leak had been coming from the water pump directly underneath the main housing (against the block). We get the pump replaced and torque it down to the values the Chilton's manual said too and fill the coolant system up to check for leaks. We had a small leak virtually in the same location as the original leak. So we torque it down some more and the leak stops and we called it a night. Finished putting her back together and started her up on Thursday and she runs like a champ, no rough idle or smoking (which she had been doing, I believe the timing may have been off slightly before we changed the belt and realigned everything), and no leaks. I leave it there over night. On Friday I go to leave and realize that the leak is still there and that its still coming from the water pump. Not having time to do anything about it then, I just left it where it was.

I came back today to get it, top off the coolant tank and attempt to drive it home with a friend following me to watch for any massive leaking or any other signs of trouble. She runs great for about 15-20 min, probably the best since I've gotten it last summer, and then it just dies. Won't start or anything. It turns over but won't fire. My friend saw no smoke or anything serious come out the back the entire drive, & nothing funny happened while I was driving. I was not getting on it or anything along those line (knowing that coolant was slowly dripping out of the system). We push her into a subdivision, and proceed to check the obvious. Oil level is fine, we were able to put some coolant in, but not any where near a lot, maybe a drinking cup or two's worth and maybe an inch in the catch can. The temp gauge rose up nice and slowly during the drive to its normal position in the middle and stayed that way the entire drive up until the point of the engine dying. I am baffled and had it flat bedded home and it now sits in my driveway. When it is cranking over, it sounds just like one had pull the injector fuse to do a compression test (Mine was 195, 205, 210,210 a week before I took her apart and I planning on doing another one first thing tomorrow).

I'm at a loss for this one. I HIGHLY doubt its related to the cooling system, or the timing belt, both we were meticulous about taking apart, setting right, and putting back together(but then again I don't know what is wrong for sure). Could it be a fuel system problem? Maybe a clogged filter or bad pump? I am open to any and all Ideas and suggestions you all could have. I want to find out what is wrong and attempt to fix it myself before I have to take it to a mech/dealer to get it fixed. Car has just over 100K on it and the only mods are a greddy type S bov, Turbo Timer (if you call that a mod), and an exhaust.

TIA,
Nick

 

[GZ-Rahvin]

try looking through this, you might find your problem is this writeup somewhere

Car Won’t Start

The purpose of this editorial is to aid in the diagnosis of a car that will not start. The focus of this particular page will be to the 4G63 turbo powered DSM cars, but the basics will also apply to most any make or model with a few variances.

Any internal combustion engine needs three things to operate: air, fuel, and ignition. We will assume that air is not a cause for this discussion, and leave focus to the latter two.

Getting started

First, you’ll need to gather a few tools. A thin shank flatblade screwdriver, a test light, multimeter, 19mm socket, 10mm socket, and a Phillips screwdriver.

Make sure the car has adequate voltage in the battery, one can make a general assumption based on headlight output. If you’re not certain, check it with a voltmeter.

Ignition system

Personally, I begin with the ignition system. The quickest way to check for spark is to pull out a plug wire, and carefully insert a screwdriver into the wire. Make sure that it has good contact with the conductor. Next, hold the metal shank of the screwdriver near a good ground on the vehicle; do NOT use the battery for this ground (battery explosion can result). Have someone else spin the motor over, while you watch for a spark from the screwdriver.

If spark is present, chances are the ignition system is not the culprit. Move on to the fuel system to narrow down your search. However, if no spark is present, do not necessarily assume that the fuel system is functioning properly. The next step should be to check for fuel delivery.

Fuel system

Make certain that there is gas in the tank! Begin by checking for fuel pump operation. The quickest and most accurate way is to check the fuel pressure. If you don’t have one, for shame! Now is a good time to spend the $35 on one. Alternatively, you can stick your ear by the gas tank or filler door and listen while an assistant turns the key on (alternatively, you can "hot-wire" the fuel pump via the pump test connector located under the hood). Listen for the fuel pump whirring noise, and since you don’t have a pressure gauge, assume that fuel is getting to the filter.

If at this point, you have determined that neither spark nor fuel is present, remove and inspect the ECU. Chances are that it is the culprit, especially if you can smell a distinct odor of bad seafood!

Further Diagnosis

If you have either no spark or no fuel, begin the process of eliminations.

Check ALL fuses and relays. Use a known good relay(s) where possible.

Are the fuel injectors firing? A noid light is a handy item to own, plug it in the injector harness and it’ll flash each time a voltage is sent to that injector.

Is the fuel filter plugged? If you can’t recall when it was changed last, go ahead and buy a replacement after all, it’s a good idea to do it now anyhow?

Do any of coils put out spark? Check each plug wire with the screwdriver trick.

Are the coil packs receiving voltage? Check with a test light while an assistant cranks the car.

Are the battery terminals clean and tight?

Check for obvious physical damage to the crank and/or cam sensor(s). Distributor where applicable (note: the 4g63 does not have a distributor).

Valve timing incorrect. A worn belt may have jumped a few teeth and is preventing the motor from cranking (4g63 owners beware, this may also mean serious internal motor damage!)

 

[DaDeuceIsLoose]

Thanks man, but I've already seen that. I was hoping maybe someone had any insight relating more toward everything I said, or perhaps something I have overlooked.

 

[Bostedquest]

How did you set the tension on the T belt?
Yes the direction matters, as if you go with belt rotation, it WILL work itself loose and release tension.
Vfaq has the particulars, yes the directions are oppisite between 1G/2G.

After you crank are your plugs wet? if so then you are getting weak/no spark too much fuel.

Not wet, your not getting fuel. Clogged filter/weak low output pump

The point being, that if the plugs are getting fuel, and lighting you will run. However badly, but you will run.
So you have to see if they are getting wet or not and go from there.

 

[DaDeuceIsLoose]

We made sure the timing marks were all aligned and that all the slack was between the exhaust camshaft, and the crank, we then proceeded to pull the pin on the auto tensioner, and tightened the tensioner pulley slightly.

 

[Bostedquest]

We made sure the timing marks were all aligned and that all the slack was between the exhaust camshaft, and the crank, we then proceeded to pull the pin on the auto tensioner, and tightened the tensioner pulley slightly.

Ok you tighened it... big whoop, if you tighened it in the wrong direction it WILL come loose.
I bet you did the tension wrong.

 

[DaDeuceIsLoose]

What do you mean tighten in the wrong direction? The bolt only tights clockwise does it not?