Car won't start (just goes klink)

[laserspeeddemon]

Ok, this is a test question for some of you newbies. I would rather the Wisemens and Moderators not chime. I wanted to A)Give the newbies a chance to answer this and get some rep points and B) have the info available to fellow DSMers, as the symptons were typical, but the solution was not.

Heres the situation. My wifes car would sometimes start fine and somtimes, not start at all. The starter would just make a "klink" sound, when I turned the key. Heres what I did to fix to try and fix the problem.

New Battery (12.6v before starting falling to 12.2 when trying to start)
New Starter.
New Alternator (not related, but still new)
Starter Relay is good. (Connectivity on Termals 1&3 and 2&4 with no power, no connectivity on terminals 1&3 when power is supplied to terminal 4 and terminal 2 was grounded)
Clutch switch disabled.

What other possible problems would cause this problem?

Rep points goes to those with good answers with supporting references.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

so you have to put the key in and then press the button? seems like extra work to accomplish the same result.

The reason to use the key is to make sure no can just bust the glass and start the car (or try to, there would be no spark).

I'm sure there are plenty of people including myself who don't know what a "S2000" start button is. This is usually called a "horn button" (switch) and can be purchased as this. These can be found at automotive abd marine parts stores but there are some very poor quality brand X units which won't hold up to repeated use. I would think for the $15 you can buy a high qualite marine starter push button switch. The $3 relay is a bargain if it will too will hold up to repeated use.
.............

When I said S2000, I meant Honda S2000. I don't know if they all came factory with push button starter, but I know they do now. It's also very cheap.

 

[talondude4]

I know I know..... You had to clean the battery terminals. Where's my rep point?

I would also check to make sure terminal wires are tight.

 

[talondude4]

I really shouldn't have to point out to a moderator that whoring for points is against the rules.

From http://dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_faq_reputation

"If we find people abusing the system, we'll take away all of their points and knock them back down to New Member status. We don't mind if you ask members, who you've bent over backwards to help, to give you reputation points (via private message), even though that's not in the spirit of the system. However, members should not publicly ask for reputation points, and should not leave their username when giving points to others as a way of trying to attract reciprocal points. Do not attempt to contact other members and ask them to "swap" points as a way of padding your points total. That's considered abuse and you'll lose some privileges for it."



Steve

Yes dr.Phill.

 

[GTM]

...
I honestly don't know why you were so offended, but this thread was diffinetly not about your feelings.
...
Who can argue with that.

Keeping in mind with your last statement I will post the problem wire and how to really fix it.

You offered a bribe to fix what you could not, you excluded knowledable staff from helping you and others with same problem, and continue to toss down the gauntlet defending several areas of poor judgmen. I can't imagine what's wrong with this picture... Your profile indicates you buy and sell cars which makes me wonder if this isn't one of those business ventures and trying to turn a profit at this site's expense...

The premise of getting novice help and finding the problem was zero and resulted in a misinformation notice being sent to _every_ staff member. The bottom line is you have taught nothing and while it's possible to make up a phony solution your crediblity level must be called to question for the reasons previously stated. Hopefully we will see no more of this crap spring up in other threads. 'nuff said.

GTM

 

[GTM]

...
It would seem that you are more aggrivated that I some how threatened you position as "wiseman".
...
Once last thing, why do you constantly use the underscore key.

...insulting staff can get you busted in rank. I see no conciliatory tenor in any post as if you wish to continue to _justify_ pushing the envelope with this.

................
Since you asked the underscore _detracts_ from speed reading mistakes when pushing the 2,000-3000wpm. It also translates the same in a variety of O/S unlike switching Caps on and off or using a-hyphen which can be control codes. Since I've been using it for 27 years starting with my BBS not likely to change. Before the Internet there were "Bulletin Board Services" where you could post messages and send email, file share, or chat, these used modems and PCs. They could be free or subscription, they could be local only or as in my case, nationally networked with 3 connects to the east coast and a hub for all of So CAl. Until multi-tasking software these were dedicated computer(s) you couldn't do anything without shutting the system down and running another program because the CPU couldn't handle it. Once the 286 chip came out Microsoft changed all that so you could work behind the scenes while the BBS was making and answering calls.
There are still some BBSes out there and they can interface with the internet using a translating software.

GTM

 

[laserspeeddemon]

In keeping my word to GTM I have isolated the trouble wire. I could not get continuity from the yellow/black wire to the matching terminal (or any terminal) receiptor that this should connect to from the start relay. To replace this wire, I would have to cut open the wiring harness. I felt this was to much hassle to replace one wire. So instead I wired in a "push to start" button. The wire I was refering to is circled in red. There is actually two wires and they are mated by a connector.


Also, I have removed anything that is not related to the topic.

 

[tonismo]

Does your engine Roll over or rotate when you tried starting it? If it does not roll over after you bought a new starter then it has to be your Engine. Then you'll have to do a rebuilt, price is cheap but labor and time is the pain in the asz

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Does your engine Roll over or rotate when you tried starting it? If it does not roll over after you bought a new starter then it has to be your Engine. Then you'll have to do a rebuilt, price is cheap but labor and time is the pain in the asz

Seriously you need to read the whole thread. I fully described what was the problem the post before yours. On top of that, I have bypassed the problem altogether.

PAY ATTENTION.

 

[dr1665]

Does your engine Roll over or rotate when you tried starting it? If it does not roll over after you bought a new starter then it has to be your Engine. Then you'll have to do a rebuilt, price is cheap but labor and time is the pain in the asz

Um... That's really poor information.

At the minimum, if the engine will turn over, but not fire, then it means he has no fuel or spark. If the engine will run normally once it's started, this means that the engine has at least decent compression, so the issue becomes that of fuel and ignition. Sounds like he's tracked it to something electrical, which could be the ECU just not firing the injectors or coil pack from time to time.

Your attempt at participating is always welcome, but if you are unsure about something, it's better to phrase things a bit differently. "Just buy a new engine, " would be funny and somewhat acceptable, but to say it "has to be" the engine is foolhardy and bad advice.

 

[steve]

Then you'll have to do a rebuilt, price is cheap but labor and time is the pain in the asz

This is going to be one of those posts you look back on in a year or two and go "What the heck was I thinking". "I can't believe I was ever that big a newbie."

Steve

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Um... That's really poor information.

At the minimum, if the engine will turn over, but not fire, then it means he has no fuel or spark. If the engine will run normally once it's started, this means that the engine has at least decent compression, so the issue becomes that of fuel and ignition. Sounds like he's tracked it to something electrical, which could be the ECU just not firing the injectors or coil pack from time to time.

Your attempt at participating is always welcome, but if you are unsure about something, it's better to phrase things a bit differently. "Just buy a new engine, " would be funny and somewhat acceptable, but to say it "has to be" the engine is foolhardy and bad advice.

What the?!?!

You need to read the entire thread too!!!

not an ECU issue, not a spark issue, not a fuel issue. Compression needs help but is within tolerances.

go to the top of this page. Thats the problem.

 

[MikeCordell]

I know I am more than a little late and you have already found the problem. But, I recieved my car in non operating condition and somehow in the build up I completely lost the starter wire. It was tucked somewhere behind the intake manifold. Well, when it came time to start I would turn the key and I got the same 'klink' noise. After a little more work under the hood taking care of some vacuum hose wiring, etcetra, basically not worrying about the no start problems ahead I found the starter wire, attached it, and it started first time.

Long story short, I got a klink sound, too. I feel special!