Car will not start after barely touching it

[red90GST]

I bought the car back in November it ran just had knocking or ticking sound when I bought it YouTube - 1g dsm knocking noise turbo after I revved the engine (should not have done that) then I turned the car off (some people asked me before if the car died after I revved it) The night before I took the car for test drive around the block and the car would go very slowly so I decided to push the gas pedal some more and the only thing I saw different was needle moved on the turbo gauge on the dashboard and no acceleration. The car almost died when I went to a stop the lights started to dim but it did not die on me. I got it back to the house and since the interior was immaculate and paint was still good just some faded areas on the hood and the back of the car. When I towed the car home I posted the video on you tube and people were commenting saying it was the lifters some say it was a rod. So I changed the oil and did not see any shavings of metal since some said if theres shaving of metal in the oil pan then the rods are bad or shot. So I checked that off thinking it was the lifters. So I started taking the car apart only thing I remember taking off was valve cover couple of vacuum hoses on the intake manifold and the Throttle body the hoses with green circle are the ones I removed http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/throttlebody.htm
and the connector with orange circle I do not see that on my TB so I don't know if mine came with one or not. Then I removed some hoses near the spark plugs and also some connectors underneath the Intake Manifold. I also took the fuel rail off and the connectors on the fuel rail and some sensors on the left side the whole engine is covered in looks like old oil and a sensor fell off the wire but I soldered it back on and its not falling off now. Then I was taking bolts off of the Intake Manifold and before going any further I decided to check to see if I had any new replies I did and a member told me he had the same noise and just to put new oil in it and let it run so the lifters can get primed (I guess thats what he called it) and I thought to myself awesome I can get the car running so I put everything back together all bolts torqued to specification and put new oil in it and changed the valve cover gasket. So I turned the key over and its not starting it would crank but not start I got scared because I didn't really go that deep into taking apart the engine so I checked around seeing if I forgot to plug something in and everything is plugged in right and after that I checked the fuses under dash board and under the hood none of them were bad all fuses we're fine. I made a thread on a forum about my incident he told me to check if the ecu is bad and he told me if it is bad it would smell like rotten eggs or fish sure enough it smelled like fish and also found burned spot on it. I bought a used working ecu for my year and turbocharged and was happy to put new ecu in and get it started........ well after putting new ecu it still would not start I went to look some more on my engine and started smelling gas so I knew I was getting gas to the engine so I decided to do a compression test and I got for cylinder 1 160 cylinder 2 120 cylinder 3 120 cylinder 4 120 I never put oil down on the piston to see if the results would changed since I don't have some to read the gauge while I turn over the car. I'm thinking it maybe a blown head gasket. But I am not for sure so hopefully this narrows things down.

Thanks for reading the long story and trying to help me get this car started if I can't get it started then I'm just gonna throw in a rebuild engine in it.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

ok, first things first. that sound really sounds like the hydrolic tensioner for your timing belt is bad. You may have jumped time and bent valves causing it not to crank. Pull your timing cover off and try to manually line up the timing marks on the cams and the crank. If they line up, you might be ok, if they don't....you more than likely bent valves.

EDIT : Your compression is horrible on the last 3 cylinders so I would also suspect a blown head gasket.

 

[red90GST]

I'll see if I can line up the marks I'm not able to turn the cams anymore but I can try again and see if the timing marks are lined up.

EDIT:its able to turn over trying to start but won't is that what crank kind of sort of means?

 

[EagleTalonTim]

yes, if the motor just spins and spins without starting, it means it will not crank. You should be able to get a 1/2 inch drive and connect it into the center bolt on the harmonic balancer then turn it clockwise. Try that and see if the timing marks all line up.

 

[red90GST]

I'll get back to you on the timings I had a dsm members from different forums come by yesterday checking stuff out and we checked to see if it was getting spark. There was no spark so he took the ignition coil pack off and saww burned spots inside where ignition wires go darkest ones is where the wire for number 4 plugged into and number 3 and also the plastic had hole in it from melting and getting to hot and also corrosion

 

[red90GST]

I don't think my hydraulic tensioner is bad the timing belt is on there pretty firm not loose at all. The timing notches are lined up perfectly.

 

[red90GST]

Ok well I put a new ignition coil in a friend came by and gave me his. Well after trying to start it and my friend said sound like rod about to go out and he told me you're going need to drop the oil pan and told me to wiggle rod see if it moves alot can anyone show me what exactly i need to check like picture would help alot.

 

[FP3065TSI]

well if you want to check for a spun rod bearing all you have to do is as you turn the car on remove a spark plug wire at a time and if you cant hear a "knock" noise then that piston/con-rod's bearing are bad. Or take the oil pan off and move the con-rods up and down and if they do move then theres your problem.

 

[red90GST]

is the con rod the connecting rod? the rod thats on the crankshaft and connecting at the top of the piston??

 

[red90GST]

need a answer quickly for this I have fwd turbo eclipse and was wondering since im just removing cross member and exhuast will i need to support engien since theres three other motor mounts and t case supporting it since im just removing oil pan? My friend said I won't need ot since I got the mount and t case supporting it

 

[RoasT BeeF]

You can remove the cross member without supporting the engine.

 

[red90GST]

ok thank you so much for the response

 

[m_ivan69]

I left my car without moving for a year and then when i came back it had the same sound as in your video!! HElp please!

Thanks

 

[No_Skillz]

That is bad lifter tick. It is not a bad rod, it will not have nearly that high of a frequency. It will also sound alot worse (like someone taking a hammer and beating on the block).

It's to be expected after letting the car sit for so long, since most of the oil probably drained out of the lifters. Running the lifters dry can damage them and make that lifter tick permanent. You should have primed the engine with a couple of cranks. However, if you're lucky you might have gotten away with it. Let it idle for a few minutes or go for an easy drive and see if the sound goes away. If not, you should invest in some revised lifters.

 

[1stGenTSi]

I'd say that's just lifter noise as well. Check battery and alternator if it's having a hard time starting or is almost stalling on you. I hope you didn't pull the pan for nothing. It was probably leaking anyways though .