Car will not boost over 10 psi on the 50 Trim

[TSiGoesPsSsSst]

Something is SERIOUSLY wrong.I have to keep my SAFC set at 40% across the board for my car to even be able to move,and even then the car will not boost over 10 PSI.It stutters and backfires like crazy.We've checked the IC piping,SAFCII wiring,MAS....everything.Nobody can figure this car out
Im running 650s with a 255lph walbro
PTE 50 trim,Slowboy FMIC.
Only thing I dont have is an AFPR,but everyone tells me that cant be the problem.
Im stumped here

 

[trbotaln]

sounds like a boost leak to me. Running a 250 pump without a regulator doesn't help either.

 

[TSiGoesPsSsSst]

We actually reinstalled all the IC piping a second time and made sure everything was extremely tight.Still doing it.As for running the 255lph on the stock FPR,Iv'e talked to a few people about that and they all claim it wouldn't cause the problems im experiencing

 

[trbotaln]

the 250 fuel pump wont cause the problems you have but they will definately make you run rich. The problems you have sound like a boost leak. Have you tried a boost leak tester because that will pinpoint exactly where your problem is. Keep us posted. Double check your IC pipes,TB,fuel injectors, IC,intake manifold,BOV, for leaks. Keep us posted.

 

[TSiGoesPsSsSst]

Any other ideas?i need some help desperatly

 

[oldman]

The only way to find boost leak is through a real boost leak test, not through visual inspection. When I install my FMIC and piping I found at least 8 leaks when I finally did the test after I tripple check all the connector, could've saved myself time and grief if I had listen to other's suggestion right from the start. And tubotaln sumed it up for you pretty well, the 255 will not cause the problem but it definitely compounds it, both boost leak and 255 w/o afpr will creat rich conditions.

 

[86MCSS]

Check to see if you MAS is working properly. Check your coil. Check your fuel pressure. Check your timming belt. How much vacuum do you have at idle?

 

[TSiGoesPsSsSst]

It seems like something electrical.Why else would my highs have to be set at 50% for the car to even move?Which would bring me to think its the safc since thats the only electrical componet added to the car.Checked the wiring on that 3 times now,seems fine.Dont understand it at all.I might go as far as downgrading to an evo16g and 550s soon to see if that helps.Im running out of ideas.Possibly a bad ECU or coil pack?

 

[Hammer_Gaidin]

It seems like something electrical.Why else would my highs have to be set at 50% for the car to even move?Which would bring me to think its the safc since thats the only electrical componet added to the car.Checked the wiring on that 3 times now,seems fine.Dont understand it at all.I might go as far as downgrading to an evo16g and 550s soon to see if that helps.Im running out of ideas.Possibly a bad ECU or coil pack?

I hate to repeat what everyone else has been saying, but have you even tried a leak check? I dont mean just making sure everything is tight...really check everything for leaks..the right way?? I though my setup on my 1g was sealed well, but I still found a leak after a leak test. I would definately spend the time to do a good leak test before you downgrade...

 

[mastadogg2]

ever think about checking your exhaust manifold for loose studs? a bad exhaust manifold leak will make the turbo spool like shit and drop your psi insanely

 

[Mindslayer]

exhaust leak or vac leak. check them.

 

[TSiGoesPsSsSst]

Well,we put the car on dsmlink today.
Looks like the timings off,so first thing tommorow morning the timing is being fixed.
Also got the dsmlink logs,Those will be posted up on the dsmlink forums soon

 

[92awddsm]

Well,we put the car on dsmlink today.
Looks like the timings off,so first thing tommorow morning the timing is being fixed.
Also got the dsmlink logs,Those will be posted up on the dsmlink forums soon

Like everyone else said, boost leak test. Just because you checked the pipes doesnt mean there isnt a leak. Ive seen people blow chunks of intake manifold gaskets out and injectors seals also. No way to check other than a $5 homemade boost leak tester. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

Dont keep asking for help if you dont want to try what we suggest.

 

[TSiGoesPsSsSst]

The timing is off.
Even under no boost the car sputters/misfires like hell.

 

[95gstHRCsuper20]

was the vehicle running good b4, did you check your wires? The 6 bolt firing order is diff. When do you do the swap??

 

[TSiGoesPsSsSst]

Did the timing job on it.Helped a little but still running like crap.

Going to put it on dsmlink again and get some better logs..
Then check the MAS,and some other random wiring..

 

[oldman]

Something is SERIOUSLY wrong.I have to keep my SAFC set at 40% across the board for my car to even be able to move,and even then the car will not boost over 10 PSI.It stutters and backfires like crazy.We've checked the IC piping,SAFCII wiring,MAS....everything.Nobody can figure this car out
Im running 650s with a 255lph walbro
PTE 50 trim,Slowboy FMIC.
Only thing I dont have is an AFPR,but everyone tells me that cant be the problem.
Im stumped here

You are one of the most stubborn person I have ever helped. I see that you're frustrated so I will make a final attempt to lay it out for you. Let's break you problem down into two parts, fuel and boost.

A. Fuel

1. I don't care how many people tells you it's ok to run the 255 without afpr, you're having problems now so get yourself a afpr.

2. Make sure you're not venting.

3. Too many times I hear "I have no leak because I triple checked all the clamps and gaskets" and most of them turn out to be wrong, that includs myself. It's crucial to perform a boost leak test anytime work is done to the intake trac. Do yourself and all of us reading this a favor, do a leak test. Even if we're wrong, you can at least eliminate it for sure. A successful leak test means system holding 20psi for 30 seconds.

B. Boost

If problem persists after you gone through part A and you're 100% the system is leak free, we can focus on the turbo itself.

1. Disconnect pressure hose from the actuator (disabling the wastegate) and test run. We are looking for all out boost so make sure you let off if you see boost approaching 20 psi. If problem persists, turbo could be the issue. If you in fact get all out boost, turbo is ok and go to 2.

2. Borrow a known good mbc and bypass the ebc and test run. If problem fixed, the ebc is the problem. If problem persists after all this, perform a compression test and post back.

Everything I have suggested are good to do anyway so you won't be wasting your time even if it doesn't solve your problem. Keep in mind there could be multiple causes to your problem. Good luck, hopefully we will hear better news next time you post.

 

[CyberEye]

what the crap, this guy OBVIOUSLY does NOT want our help. Every person in this thread has told him what to do that will point out EXACTLY what is causing his problem, but does he listen? NO! He just ignores everyone, and continues to make himself look like an ass by asking what it could be.

 

[TSiGoesPsSsSst]

You are one of the most stubborn person I have ever helped. I see that you're frustrated so I will make a final attempt to lay it out for you. Let's break you problem down into two parts, fuel and boost.

A. Fuel

1. I don't care how many people tells you it's ok to run the 255 without afpr, you're having problems now so get yourself a afpr.

2. Make sure you're not venting.

3. Too many times I hear "I have no leak because I triple checked all the clamps and gaskets" and most of them turn out to be wrong, that includs myself. It's crucial to perform a boost leak test anytime work is done to the intake trac. Do yourself and all of us reading this a favor, do a leak test. Even if we're wrong, you can at least eliminate it for sure. A successful leak test means system holding 20psi for 30 seconds.

B. Boost

If problem persists after you gone through part A and you're 100% the system is leak free, we can focus on the turbo itself.

1. Disconnect pressure hose from the actuator (disabling the wastegate) and test run. We are looking for all out boost so make sure you let off if you see boost approaching 20 psi. If problem persists, turbo could be the issue. If you in fact get all out boost, turbo is ok and go to 2.

2. Borrow a known good mbc and bypass the ebc and test run. If problem fixed, the ebc is the problem. If problem persists after all this, perform a compression test and post back.

Everything I have suggested are good to do anyway so you won't be wasting your time even if it doesn't solve your problem. Keep in mind there could be multiple causes to your problem. Good luck, hopefully we will hear better news next time you post.

Hey thanks for your reply,I appreciate you taking the time to type all that.Ill do my best to answer to all your comments.

A. Fuel - The car was hooked up to DSM link,and the fuel situation checked out fine,other than being a little rich due to my afpr not being installed.

1. I have an afpr,I was missing one of the fittings for it,which I obtained yesterday so the afpr WILL be going in today.

2. No im not venting..If your talking about my BOV,that is.

3. Unless my intercooler pipes had half inch holes drilled through them,I wouldn't be experiencing problems of this magnitude.Especially seeing that the car stutters,etc even when not under boost.The car may be undergoing a leak test today at a friends just to be sure.

B. Boost.

1. Good idea,I will definatly try that.

2. By saying (EBC) Im assuming(But I could be wrong) you mean Electronic boost control..
I have a MBC in the car right now which I actually installed after my problems were existing.
Now when you say perform a compression test,you mean on the motor,right?Done.
I cant remember the exact results but im pretty sure they were 130 on two cylinders and 160 on the other two.
Also this problem was happening right before I even had the 6 bolt swap done,so that kind've eliminates that.

Again,thanks for taking your time to give me your advice.I appreciate it.

and about this last response...

what the crap, this guy OBVIOUSLY does NOT want our help. Every person in this thread has told him what to do that will point out EXACTLY what is causing his problem, but does he listen? NO! He just ignores everyone, and continues to make himself look like an ass by asking what it could be.

Um...yeah,ok.Your not here to see the problem so dont go on saying dumb things please.I know ALOT of people who tune these cars,and work on them constantly and know them like the back of thier hand.Every single one of them who has seen what the car is doing in first person says the same thing.
''It would have to be one hell of a friggin boost leak to run like that''
And like I stated above the car does it even when not under boost.
A leak test will be done to the car though,honestly im running out of ideas.

Thanks to those who replied and tried to help.I will keep everyone updated on the situation.

 

[TSiGoesPsSsSst]

Just talked to my buddy that actually has the car right now.Hes trying to figure it out for me.

Anyways,
He was telling me something about on the 95s(My year) the injector wires are suppose to be rewired or something of that sort,and that may be my problem.Anyone else know anything about that?He's going to do that today along with the afpr install.

 

[oldman]

I cant remember the exact results but im pretty sure they were 130 on two cylinders and 160 on the other two.

There's your problem, the service limit for a 2G is 133. Was those compression numbers done with full warmed up and wot applied during cranking? I suggest reapeating compression test, both dry and wet. Make sure it's done right, post back results. http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/compression.htm

''It would have to be one hell of a friggin boost leak to run like that''

One of your biggest problem is that you and your friends are still assuming that there is only one cause to your problem. Problems often overlaps each other, process of elimination would be the safest way to go about it. Boost leak test is not just for finding leaks, it's a very usefull tool for trouble shooting as well. Example, if you have bad rings which I suspect you do, air would be rushing into the crank case when you try to pressure test, you probably won't be able to hold more than 2psi.

Um...yeah,ok.Your not here to see the problem so dont go on saying dumb things please.I know ALOT of people who tune these cars,and work on them constantly and know them like the back of thier hand.Every single one of them who has seen what the car is doing in first person says the same thing.

You might think these friends you got knows their shit but if they are the same people who told you, 1. AFPR isn't needed for 255, 2. not to do a boost leak test and 3. 130 on two cylinders is ok, I have serious doubt on how good they really are. I suggest you put what they have told you so far away some where for now and concentrate on what's being suggested here on this thread. Let me sum it up for you again.

1. Check turbo/mbc/actuator like described on my previous post.
2. BOOST LEAK TEST http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html You will be suprose what you find.
3. Dry and wet compression test.

Post back the results.

 

[91TalonTSiCT]

I may have missed the post, but the ignition timing could be advanced too much which is causing too many counts of knock. When the ecu cannot pull the timing enough to compensate then it will limit your boost. Check your CAS and adjust the ignition timing to see if that is the culprit.

 

[deusxmachina]

So what was the problem on this? Boost leak?

 

[TSiGoesPsSsSst]

Ended up being alot of little things all combined together.CAS was in backwards,Fuel pump was put in wrong,causing the car to get like 10psi of fuel pressure...

A few other things also.What a shame