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Car will just crank.

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Cynxe

Proven Member
263
6
Feb 19, 2015
Ottumwa, Iowa
Yesterday it took awhile to get my car started. But i did get it started, and i drove it. I got it home and parked it, and hour later i went outside and started it, it fired right up. Now its the morning and it just cranks, no starting.
 
I know you have a 1g...its the two-prong sensor in front of the thermostat housing. Not the 1 prong for temperature gauge
 
I know you have a 1g...its the two-prong sensor in front of the thermostat housing. Not the 1 prong for temperature gauge
I have the 2 prong sensor plugged in now, and thats whats reading my coolant temp.
 

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Blue circle is fan switch. Red is the coolant temp sensor. Replace it. That isnt what necessarily sends the temp to the gauge..but will cause "over heating" at times when bad as well. The one that sends the temp to the gauge is your coolant temp switch. Cts controls feed to the ecu and will cause no starts when bad. It determines the enrichment mixture upon startup
 
Blue circle is fan switch. Red is the coolant temp sensor. Replace it. That isnt what necessarily sends the temp to the gauge..but will cause "over heating" at times when bad as well. The one that sends the temp to the gauge is your coolant temp switch. Cts controls feed to the ecu and will cause no starts when bad. It determines the enrichment mixture upon startup
Also i pulled the hose that connects to my fpr, but only a few small drips came out. Its like i dont have alot of pressure in my fuel system.
 
was the fuel pump on? key in the on position? normally if you turn your key to on position you can hear the pump start up if u cannot hear it turn on and no pressure it may be bad
I unpluged my starter yesterday and turned it over, and my fuel pump started to whine. And could i maybe have to change my fuel filter?
 
When it just cranks and cranks, then i stop for a bit, then crank it over, it fires in like 1 piston then cranks again. I have to do this for like 40 minutes then itll finally start.
 
That single prong is for your temp gauge. Get a new coolant temperature sensor...
 
I noticed your wiring is a bit hacked. Im not near my 1g...but you need to verify that you have the correct wires going to the correct prongs on the CTS
 
Stop wasting peoples time and go out and work on your car. You need to check fuel pressure with an actual gauge and not just by pulling the return. Check compression to see if it holds air and if you have spark. Its the basics(air, spark, fuel). If its a coolant temp sensor check the resistance to see if its good. Dont just buy and replace unnecessary parts.

If you dont have tools or knowledge to diagnose things then take it to someone who does before you damage the car. Judging from your other thread you dont even have a $2 spark plug gap tool because you just "bent" the electrode back after you dropped a plug from checking it.

The more thorough job you do and more information you give us after you've done the basic tests(PROPERLY) will allow us to better recommend a fix.
 
Last edited:
Green/black and yellow/green is coolant temp(ecu) on 91+.

However, coolant temp(gauge) is also yellow/green(single wire)

Black/green and green/yellow is AC switch.
 
Check for a leaking injector. Smell the plugs. If one is wet or that cylinder smells like gas it's a problem. Sounds like your fuel system is having to prime after it sits for a bit. When u do get it started shut it off and immediately Start it. Should fire right up. If it Doesn't start after sitting for a while it may be because it's having to prime. You can also test this by manually firing the fuel pump before cranking. None of this is completely objective but it's a start
 
They w
Stop wasting peoples time and go out and work on your car. You need to check fuel pressure with an actual gauge and not just by pulling the return. Check compression to see if it holds air and if you have spark. Its the basics(air, spark, fuel). If its a coolant temp sensor check the resistance to see if its good. Dont just buy and replace unnescessary parts.

If you dont have tools or knowledge to diagnose things then take it to someone jo who does before you damage the car. Judging from your other thread you dont even have a $2 spark plug gap tool because you said you just bend the electrode back after you pulled a plug to check it.
Not sure youre understanding. But i bought the car with a broken trans. I didnt the entire swap by myself. And drove it last night. My issues now are to fix a small problem that im having confusion with. There were shitty champion plugs in the car, when i got it, that were way off gap anyways. My priority was to get the car running, which i did. I have spark, compression and the fuel doenst seem to be coming in. You're here to help, not to tell me im wasting peoples time. Im at work at the moment and im trying to learn from people like you who have been through this. Id like the assistance to better understand. I dont want other working on MY car. I like to do it myself so i know its done right. I like to learn, thats why i come here.
 
You most likely flooded your engine +1 for check your injectors out ohm them and see what the ohms are and use a continuity tester to check and see if the injectors are stuck open,

Next time your car won't start remove all plugs and clean them off u can get a spark plug cleaner for cheap to but( ragg works) after you dry them off I bet it will start went threw this when my cts went out causing this exact issue you gotta be patient when the car won't start so you don't flood it

If it does start check your cts when the engines hot and after its bone cold and compare to a good cts resistance
 
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