Car was Running now it wont start FML

[NvDiS]

i finally got my car running and driving but idleing like crap ..we were able to get to idle better but we were having some issue with the alternator ..thought maybe it was bad ..for one reason or another we got the alternator to work ...as we were doing our final test we disconnected the battery and the car died(mind you we did this test quite a few times before)..

Well heres the issue ..after we reconnect the battery ..the car just wont start out of no where ..you see it sits there and cranks over and over but will not turn on ...no idea what it could be ...so we went down the list

checked spark
1.with a spark plug ..plugged we had spark on all four wires

2 .check resistance on the coil pack 13.5 on the wire side and .97-1.0 on the engine plug side

3. put new spark plugs in gapped to .28

4. put new wires

Fuel side

1. had 1g injectors switch out to the 2nd gens (tested ohms @ spec as per Haynes)

2. disconnected fuel line to check pump ...pump is good

3. try the fuel rail trick with injectors in the air ..(to much of a pain in the ass) not enough play to flow fuel to a container

4. check fuel resistoter box (ohm up to spec)

5. checked and tested fuelpump/MFI relays Good

Timing side

1. visually all timing marks line up

CAS is good

power transitor was good

crank angle sensor is good

Check ECU

1. no weird smell or burn marks

2. try waiting for the CEL but never came on ..the boost gauge does go up half way

3. bought a new ECU

Now For the visuals and physical test

i pulled the plugs out cylinder 1 & 2 ...spark plugs have fuel and carbon on them... while 3 & 4 lookg and smell normal...

so i went ahead and tried engine starter fuild ..first through the T/B and i got nothing car still wont start

then directly into the cylinder and still nothing


so thats where i stand right now ..im really fustrated and afraid to spend money on the wrong directions ..any input would be great thanks again for your time

(Refrences to) http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152460615-post13.html

 

[rbrown86]

Hmm. This seems like a pretty confusing situation. I'd do a fuel pressure test at the rail rather than taking off a line. Just because it is shooting out fuel out of a disconnected line, doesn't mean that it is getting enough pressure to the rail. I would also caution you about taking off a battery cable while the car is running (yes I know the old school trick and for older vehicles I'd say go for it, but newer ones are very sensitive when it comes to electricals). It is a possibility that something got shorted out when you disconnected and reconnected the cable.

 

[NvDiS]

ok i guess i can try that any others?

 

[DaveDegeer]

Assuming that you retest the fuel pressure, and that you do have spark it sounds to me like the pcm doesnt see the cmp / ckp positions. the cam sensor is at the end of the cylinder head an the crank sensor is on the left side down by the crank. Hope that helps you out. good luck

 

[crash89]

Make sure to double check the fuses in the engine bay. Disconnecting the battery like that is more then likely to pop a fuse.

 

[NvDiS]

yea ive checked all the fuses everything i have done was in OP ...how should i go about testing fuel pressure ..its on the stock regulator

and i almost feel like the injectors are flooding the motor ### it back fires once and a while

### I need more opinion

 

[kenuwine4g63]

Im going throught the same problem..EXACT same problem. I have a 95, my solution will be a 1g cas to control both cas and cps signals. i have changed everything and i mean everything..Let me list them cps, cts, ecu, fuel pump, injector resistor box, coil pack, power transitor, all my timing marks line up so perfect, engine is too cold to do a compression test, even if my compression is bad it'll still crank and run like sh**, changed gas, tried starting fluid, everything...im in the same boat you are..my ecu is good... But this is what im thinking of, im getting new injectors and im going to do the 1g cas conversion to cancel out the cps and cas sensor. It should fire up if it dosnt then im done. But double check everything, take your time dont wanna rush and make another problem. Sorry bout the bump

 

[crazyquik22023]

This is probably kind of obvious but did you check that the battery has high enough voltage to crank and that all of the cables are tight and ground is good? I had a problem once where the ground wire was on the battery but loose and it would turn but not start.

 

[NvDiS]

im really at the end of my patience...ive got two things that im going to check or put the car in a lake ....power transistor and put new fuel rail ### its extremely oxidated

 

[Alan11]

If your CEL doesn't Light up when you turn the key it is your engine Relay.
Everything else looks good. Get another engine relay and that should do the trick.

 

[NvDiS]

Ok well I tried a 30 amp fuse...too try out quick ..and still nothing ..still no CEL....I keep hearing a clicking noise in the middle compartment where the ecu sits ..so I suspected a ground or a short ..used my meter and found that its good no short ..so I'm stuck

 

[Alan11]

ummm ok..
What was wrong with your car before this.?
You have checked fuel and spark. What about air flow?
What is the setup in the Fmic, and what BOV are you running.?
More history on the car will help.
I still think you need to try with an OEM relay.

 

[RayBan GST]

sorry for asking this but how did you rule out that the crank sensor is fine? testing it is not always correct. it happened to me before and i checked everyhting but in the end it was the cranck sensor changed it and it fired immediately. and also i had no CEL just like you.


check also your coolant temp sensor it could be that easy.

good luck

 

[kenuwine4g63]

If your CEL doesn't Light up when you turn the key it is your engine Relay.
Everything else looks good. Get another engine relay and that should do the trick.

Engine relay?? meaning the fuse under the hood labeled engine??

 

[NvDiS]

None of that seems to fix my problem please more ideas

 

[Alan11]

None of that seems to fix my problem please more ideas

OK yes a fuse. I don't even know why the hell i put relay.


By disconnecting the battery while the car running caused something in the electrical to pop...
Check all your fuses with a test light (if you haven't done this already)..

 

[NvDiS]

i just discovered something ...i though i had tested everything in the fuel ..like fuel pump and MFi relay..but i didnt see also that we had a MPI/MFI relay that sits near the ECU where ive been hearing a strange clicking ..im gonna try and pull the sucker out tomorrow and test it ..having my finger crossed ...only weird thing is that my pump seems to be sending flue up through the line so ..im hoping the other side of the relay is bad and i can get this car running

 

[kenuwine4g63]

i just discovered something ...i though i had tested everything in the fuel ..like fuel pump and MFi relay..but i didnt see also that we had a MPI/MFI relay that sits near the ECU where ive been hearing a strange clicking ..im gonna try and pull the sucker out tomorrow and test it ..having my finger crossed ...only weird thing is that my pump seems to be sending flue up through the line so ..im hoping the other side of the relay is bad and i can get this car running

..i just pulled mine out too..can you believe mitsu wants $64 for it

 

[rbrown86]

So, have you found out anything yet?

 

[NvDiS]

Yes sure did I had zero compression across the board. So pulled the head and I guess it jumped timing and bent all 8 intake valves. :-(

 

[rbrown86]

Ouch! Sorry to hear that.

 

[NvDiS]

eh stuff happens what can you do. thanks everyone for the input