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Car stalls in hard right handers

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Bentley05

Probationary Member
14
0
Apr 12, 2011
Brokaw, Wisconsin
95 GST with a brand new motor w/about 700miles on er. I baught it a few months ago all torn apart. Befor this it sat for 7 years. So i get er together and start driving it and i have a few problems with it and still do. But when I take hard right handers the motor completly cuts out utill I strightin er out and then she comes back to life. Bad baffels in the fuel tank? And also does anyone know how to clean out a fuel tank cause mine is dirty. I have to change my fuel filter all the time as well as clean my fuel rail and injectors cause little pieces of rust keep clogin up my fuel system. Any ideas?
 
Makes sense to me it would be fuel as well considering the gas probably shifts to one side of the tank. Empty the fuel tank compleatly, and I would assume you could clean it with new gas? Put some in there and swish it around?
 
Makes sense to me it would be fuel as well considering the gas probably shifts to one side of the tank. Empty the fuel tank compleatly, and I would assume you could clean it with new gas? Put some in there and swish it around?

That makes sense, but how would I check to see if the baffeling is good or not?
 
If there's rust showing up, you need to drain the tank of fuel completely, then drop the tank and clean the tank with a fuel tank cleaner (I use 3M's cleaner). Definitely going to be a job, but it is necessary.

Filling it up with new gas will do nothing but clog up the filter again and potentially foul up an injector.

Drop the tank and do it right to avoid future headaches.
 
Im gonna start on the tank tomarrow and Ill drain it and clean er out good, but what about the stallin on hard right handers? How do I check the tank to make sure all the baffels are good or what not?
 
I have this older Mazda that cut out when I made hard turns (left or right). Turned out the power steering system needed adjustment. I don't think this is the problem though.

I've read (somewhere on this site) that the 2G has an issue with really hard right handers and 1/4 tank because the pump is on one side and the baffles are of a pretty bad design.
Is it only hard turns or all right hand turns?

Chances are it is the baffles, like you originally suggested (could be a broken fuel pick line also). Also, check your battery to make sure it isn't loose and not secured properly. That can cause it to short out.

When you get the tank off, you should be able to see or hear if the baffles are loose or maybe even rotted away.
Replacement gas tanks aren't impossible to acquire and welding in the baffles will solve the problem for good.

Post up what you discover tomorrow.
 
Subscribing as I have the same problem, 95 tsi with 104k, and due to work and school I barely get to work on it more than an hour a week.:cry:
 
I had this happen to me when I was racing at USAIR, uphill rightward corners would just cause complete fuel starvation at under 1/4 tank. Since then I've always just made sure the car was full going to the track. It results in extra weight but makes at least I can put power down at all times.
 
Could've sworn that this is an early symptom of crank walk..??
 
MI48UR8, you're think of left hand turns and clutch dropping haha. ROFL


I agree with the fuel tank issue. My beater car is a 96 Jeep Cherokee, and for the longest time, everytime you made a hard turn under a 1/4 tank, it started sputtering to shit. Keep it above at least half a tank is my usual rule, and also make sure you clean that tank and the rest of the fuel system. Rust in fuel system = Big no no.
 
)I have this older Mazda that cut out when I made hard turns (left or right). Turned out the power steering system needed adjustment. I don't think this is the problem though.)


the powere steering could be part of the problem i had a saturn that would die when taking sharp turns too fast. it turned out i was just low on power steering fluid.
 
The tank was compleatly full of rust and rust dust. Nothing was bent or out of shape inside the tank. So I took it in to the local radiator shop and thay cleaned it out and put a sealant liner in it for 75 bucks. It looks brand new.
 
Just to clarify, now you can take hard turns? I'm thinking of doing this very soon but have considered welding baffles in, just this sounds like a good idea first, or both..?
 
My quick and dirty fix for this is to run the tank dry then remove the pump assembly lift the opposite side of the car and use wet dry vac to vacum out the tank as best as possible. To get the the gunk on the other side of the tank use something that wont combust but wont really interfere with the tank walls like 100% antifreeze (no water in it) and drop the car then pick it back up vac it out and repeat until you are satisfied. Once that is done you can use muratic acid (homedepot cheap), drop to slosh it around, wait since it takes time, then vac it out (be careful fumes are bad), then do a rinse with glycol (100% antifreeze) again to clean it out. It's terrible but works for a down and dirt fix without removing the tank. However if you really want to do it properly you really do need to drop the tank.
 
Forgot to add for a final wash use gasoline and vac it out with a hand pump (do not use the shop vac)
 
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