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car smoking heavily, burns eyes

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tsukinosaru

Probationary Member
18
0
Sep 7, 2005
KC, Missouri
I got a hold of a 90 talon FWD, it ran on cyls 1 and 4 , I did the swap to 93 ECU, coils, and power transistor. Now it runs on all 4 (tach still doesnt work), but it smokes really bad, if you stand behind the car, it will burn your eyes. It looks like every possible adjustment under the hood has been monkeyed with by the guy before me (he wouldnt accept it was only running on two cylinders, he thought it was something that could be adjusted out
what should I do or check ???
thanks :]
 
its Grey smoke
I know bluish is usually oil, it doesn't smell like oil, the plugs look clean
I know white is usually coolant, but it doesn't smell like coolant
I know black is usually fuel, it kinda smells like fuel, but the smokes not black, their is a lot of black soot in the tail pipes though.

I haven't had a chance to drive the car long enough to know if its going through oil or coolant.
the oil was dirty, but didn't seem to be mixed with coolant or gas
the coolant didn't look to be contaminated either
not sure if that matters, just figured I'd throw some more info out
 
You are prob. just running rich. Might want to check out your front O2 sensor and see if its bad. That was the problem with mine a while back.
 
SoonToBeDSM06 said:
You are prob. just running rich. Might want to check out your front O2 sensor and see if its bad. That was the problem with mine a while back.
thanks :] I'll grab the Haynes manual and see if it shows how to check the o2 sensor :]
 
I cant find my manual so I'm not sure how to check the o2 sensor.
but I hooked up a palm and using mmcd in test mode, I shut down each of the injectors. When I turned off 1 or 4 car would stumble and almost die. When I turned off 2 or 3, the rpm would drop a few hundred rpm.
am I just pushing the fuel right through 2 and 3 without burning it?
 
you could use a multimeter to check the voltage coming out of the sensor. Its like how the cheap A/F ratio gauges function. If the voltage cycles between 0v and 1v then its good. Mine stayed at .2v all the time and telling the ecu i was lean which is not good for gas mileage. So take the heat wrap off the o2 plug wiring and try and find the signal wire. If you find that then tell me what it does.
 
SoonToBeDSM06 said:
you could use a multimeter to check the voltage coming out of the sensor. Its like how the cheap A/F ratio gauges function. If the voltage cycles between 0v and 1v then its good. Mine stayed at .2v all the time and telling the ecu i was lean which is not good for gas mileage. So take the heat wrap off the o2 plug wiring and try and find the signal wire. If you find that then tell me what it does.
while its idling? or at differnt rmps? or not running with the key on? can I use the readout from a datalogger ?
 
you could maybe use a datalogger. I've never used one cuz i bought DSMLink right when I bought my car. A logger might show it cycling but if it doesn't then use a multimeter. I always look at mine while its idling. But it really doesn't matter as long as you are in closed loop mode. Hope that helps. Good Luck!!
 
SoonToBeDSM06 said:
you could maybe use a datalogger. I've never used one cuz i bought DSMLink right when I bought my car. A logger might show it cycling but if it doesn't then use a multimeter. I always look at mine while its idling. But it really doesn't matter as long as you are in closed loop mode. Hope that helps. Good Luck!!
I still cant find my multimeter:[
but according to the data logger
at 2343 rpm the o2 sensor is at .23 volts
at 3250 rpm the o2 sensor is at .41 volts

also, my idle is at 2343 rpm :[
 
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