Car shut off, Jump started, Runs. Rinse and Repeat.

[exile]

I was driving the 1g yesterday and my lights started the flicker, radio went off, my accessories started to fail and the ABS light flashed (no other CELs) and I immediately realised, #@$@% my alternator. Problem is, this alternator is 2-3 months old. After the lights flickered it shut off, power steering went out and I coasted into a parking lot. Car wouldn't start after that, so.. I called mommy. Mommy jump started the 1g and I drove it home, got home. Turned it off, turned it back on and worked again. Last time this happened I replaced the alternator at a shop because I didn't know much about cars but it just happened again so I'm ruling out the alternator at this point.

(Messurements taken after car was jumpstarted and started on it's own)
Voltage on battery with car off, 12.8. Voltage at battery when car is on ~14.2.

The simple fact that I could jumpstart the car and it ran means that alternator should be fine, but I've been wrong before.

Unfortunately I couldn't get volt readings in the parking lot when it shut off, I'm sure that would of helped but if you guys can think of anything that could fix this, please let me know.

Update: I know on my 2g the ABS light comes on when I'm about to lose power and cut out, and 4 other lights come on when the alternator is dead. I'm thinking that it's not charging the battery properly.

 

[AWDtsi1995]

Bad battery? Try getting the alternater checked and if its thats ok, its probaly your battery.

 

[luv2rallye]

When the car wouldn't start did it even crank at all or did it crank but just wouldn't fire? If no crank at all, then most likely weak battery or poor cable connections (have battery tested and clean/tighten all battery cables on both ends). Getting a battery voltage measurement while you are cranking would also help. And keep in mind new (remanufactured) alternators fail more often than you think - especially when you get them at an auto store (about 1 in 5). Have your alternator tested at a "starter and alternator" repair shop. They test them fully and completely (eg. vdc, vac, correct full load, 120% full load, bearings, rectifiers, regulator, temperature, etc), not just a go/no go voltage test that auto stores do which is an epsilon above worthless.

 

[ddavisaf]

Do you have a strut tower brace? If so, make sure your battery is tied down tightly and the vinyl cover is on the positive terminal.
Edit: That's all I could add... good post luv2rallye

 

[exile]

Daa, I didn't notice that the brace that goes across the battery isn't secured.

My only concern about what you're all saying is why would the battery honestly have anything to do with the situation, the car cut out while it was driving, meaning the alternator was on duty at the time. If the battery was messed up (wires, bad cell so forth) the car wouldn't of cut out it simply wouldn't of started the next time I tried to start it.

Also, if the strut bar wasn't connected, and the battery shook lose or the terminals fell off or whatever, the alternator wouldn't of cut out in the midst of my travels. What does the ABS light blinking specifically mean? The car is about to cut out because of electrical problems?

It's just a confusing situation in all honesty.

 

[luv2rallye]

What ddavisaf is saying is if the battery isn't tied down, it will move around, rock, etc and the positive terminal may touch the strut bar, battery hold down clamp, hood, or some other metal which is a direct short and causes the engine to instantly cut out and die. We see this all the time. And sometimes the resulting voltage spike blows the alternator fuse so the battery is no longer getting charged (or damage the alternator's diodes/regulator or worst case even fry an ECU).

When the car wouldn't start did it even crank at all on it's own or did it crank but just wouldn't fire?