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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well I did replace the T-stat from kragen, but might go buy a mitsu T-stat OEM.

And as for the FMIC its the Ebay intercooler (HUGE)... forgot to update my profile.

Today I had the logger and at cruising at 75 mph the coolant temp was at 215-219 degrees, is this ok to drive. I drove on the streets it was about 205 degrees and all of this was about 30-45 mins of driving this is when I looked at the logger.
Thanks
 
uhh i have the same fmic and im in FL where this summer it was africa hot. i never experienced any overheating or high temps and i have stock fans with no added holes in my bumper.
 
uhh i have the same fmic and im in FL where this summer it was africa hot. i never experienced any overheating or high temps and i have stock fans with no added holes in my bumper.

How did you have stock fans and external wastegate hooked up? where is your wastegate?
That is why I cant have the stock fans on.
 
Is your heat shield on? What's the use, really, if your fan is blowing but your weather strip by the wipers and hood is still in place? First things you should have tried was switching radiator caps (get an EVO one) and doing a manual radiator flush (leave radiator cap off, turn heat on and to the max, put flushing liquid into radiator tract, turn car on and step back for a while).
 
How did you have stock fans and external wastegate hooked up? where is your wastegate?
That is why I cant have the stock fans on.


Look at my pics above. Stock fans ( both of them), Tial external wastegate vented to the atmosphere, T3/T4 hybrid turbo and 2 1/4'' IC pipes.. it's crowded, but it can be done. I had to make it work, and it all fit. I can't live without my A/C :D And it gets HOT here in Nebraska. The humidity is killer around here too. I can sweat just walking to the mail box in the mid summer months LOL
 
As already stated, build ducting! Just use some sheet metal, and make a scoop that grabs it from the bottom and forces it up in between the radiator and fmic. Some side panels to help direct the air through your fmic into your radiator and not around it would be beneficial as well. Mine was doing the same thing, 220* at 75, with my ducting/fans it never sees over 190 max, usually never over 186. Logged on dsmlink.
 
What I would do (and what has been proven to work) is to construct some sort of ducting that directs air flow directly to the radiator itself. Those holes that you made probably helped a little bit but I would also consider some ducting. Let me find a link for you...


That is what i did to my dads stealth, worked real good.
 
How did you have stock fans and external wastegate hooked up? where is your wastegate?
That is why I cant have the stock fans on.

i have an FP setup the vband for my dump tube rub agains the fan shroud on the driver side but i can adjust it so it wont touch im just too lazy at teh moment.
 
construct some ducting from Aluminum sheets you can buy at Home Depot

Lay it out with cardboard first, then cut the shapes out from your aluminum.


i'll bet 5 dollars on this.
 
Look at my pics above. Stock fans ( both of them), Tial external wastegate vented to the atmosphere, T3/T4 hybrid turbo and 2 1/4'' IC pipes.. it's crowded, but it can be done. I had to make it work, and it all fit. I can't live without my A/C :D And it gets HOT here in Nebraska. The humidity is killer around here too. I can sweat just walking to the mail box in the mid summer months LOL

Well I installed the stock fan back on the driver side and also made my dump tube more toward the ground. I will tell you if it works or not but I have to wait until I drive on the freeway for about a half an hour and this is when it usually happens. thnks again

Also can it be the water pump going out, I just wanted to ask.
 
Usually the water pump will leak before it starts to cause any over heating problem. For it to go out and not circulate the water you'd have a pully rattling around or even falling off, so i doubt that would be your issue. Let us know how it works out with the stock fans back in place. I have to wait till summer to get the true test on mine. It's holding a lot better at long idle times than it use to, but he temps are cold here and I have my biggest issues on the 90+ degree days when i want to run the A/C.
 
Look at my pics above. Stock fans ( both of them), Tial external wastegate vented to the atmosphere, T3/T4 hybrid turbo and 2 1/4'' IC pipes.. it's crowded, but it can be done. I had to make it work, and it all fit. I can't live without my A/C :D And it gets HOT here in Nebraska. The humidity is killer around here too. I can sweat just walking to the mail box in the mid summer months LOL

I live in Oklahoma so I know what you mean about the weather getting ungodly hot and humid. I have no A/C though. But to the point, the stock fans can be left in there. I have a stock fan, but it is on a manual switch because on the highway I run dead center on the temp guage, but in town I tend to get a little warm so I just flip the switch and BAM!!! The temp goes back down within about two minutes.
 
Usually the water pump will leak before it starts to cause any over heating problem. For it to go out and not circulate the water you'd have a pully rattling around or even falling off, so i doubt that would be your issue. Let us know how it works out with the stock fans back in place. I have to wait till summer to get the true test on mine. It's holding a lot better at long idle times than it use to, but he temps are cold here and I have my biggest issues on the 90+ degree days when i want to run the A/C.

You are a genius, Thanks alot. Today it did not past the half way mark at all and I try to drive it hard a little bit. But on the logger it was about 215-217 degrees is this ok?

I know for sure it did not go past half way. Maybe to finish the cooling process I might need to either put both fans to turn on all the time and/or add a duct for the radiator. I will double check tomorrow to see if it does it again. And today was a few degrees cooler but not much difference.
At least it did not past half way or above normal.
Thanks again Turboglenn and everyone else.
 
Some one explained how to set the fans to their highest setting with the wires, you may want to try that. I have mine wired where both positives and both grounds are spliced to one circuit and it seems to be helping. I'm glad things are improving on your car. There's hardly anything more frustrating than watching that needle rise and having to baby it, turn on the heat and roll down the windows in the middle of summer to keep the motor cool. 217 is not too bad but still a little above where you want to be. I have my fans set to come on at 205 and turn back off at 195 ( 5 derees above the T-stats opening point) Sometimes using a higher temp T-stat will help keep the water/coolant in the radiator a little longer letting it get cooler before passing on to the motor. You might also try that if you haven't already.
 
Some one explained how to set the fans to their highest setting with the wires, you may want to try that. I have mine wired where both positives and both grounds are spliced to one circuit and it seems to be helping. I'm glad things are improving on your car. There's hardly anything more frustrating than watching that needle rise and having to baby it, turn on the heat and roll down the windows in the middle of summer to keep the motor cool. 217 is not too bad but still a little above where you want to be. I have my fans set to come on at 205 and turn back off at 195 ( 5 derees above the T-stats opening point) Sometimes using a higher temp T-stat will help keep the water/coolant in the radiator a little longer letting it get cooler before passing on to the motor. You might also try that if you haven't already.

Today was fine also and I did not check the logger but it was really cool today and the gauge did not move past the normal stage. thanks again
 
Glad to hear things are going well. It was in the 70's yesterday adn mine held fine, thank god! hoepfully when it's 90's+ out this summer it will hold just as good.
 
I have found a lot of information on the forum but i haven't found any threads that are similar to my situation. my car overheated so i changed antifreeze fluid. after i drive the car and come back later i popped the hood and noticed all the fluid was in the overflow bottle. also, when the car is running the water pump pulley moves lefts and right, not too much but enough to see it and make noises. if car is not running i can move pulley(left and right). FYI, i changed hormonic balancer about 5 months ago. any help will be appreciated
mauge
 
yeah car has 130k on engine and when i bought it i dont believe it had the 60k service on it. well i was looking for the parts and i know what parts to get. but i want to get all OEM parts, i found some sites that say oem but i dont believe they are becuase they are made by different companies. all parts which inlude, timing belt, t belt tensioner pulley, t belt idler pulley, balance shaft belt, balance shaft belt tensioner, and waterpump. (if im missing anything please let me know). it all came out to be around $441. does this sound about right. i only ask because i just want to use oem. bad experience with aftermarket hormonic balancer.
thanks
 
i used dayco belts from napa and with water pump and all OEM tensioner pulleys, i spent 224.00. was running 330 HP for about 40,000 miles and never had a problem with it. I have used these products on a few 2g dsm's and never had 1 problem
 
So I am in the drive thru trying to get something to eat and I look at my temp gauge and it is a little above normal. I thought nothing of it, and then looked again and the temp gauge was rising. So I pull out of the line and find a place to park the car and shut it off. I pop the hood and notice that the overflow bottle is now entirely full, so I dump it out until it is at the full mark again. I'm assuming this is part of the reason the car started overheating, but what would cause the overflow bottle to end up overfilled with coolant?
 
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