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car not engaging any gear

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supersmasher

Probationary Member
22
0
Jul 24, 2009
Grande Prairie, AB, Canada
hey so i just did a afull motor rebuild. put a 6bolt main into my car.. it use to have the 7bolt. i have put in a ACT flywheel and am running a centerforce duel friction clutch. What the problem is? it not letting the transmission go into any gear at all. i have tryed replacing the master and slave cylenders the fork and the bearing. i donno what else could be wrong please help .. .
 
make sure your cables are where they should be... not gettin caught anywhere...
made that mistake once with a previous vehicle... 1 of the rear mounts was pushin down on the cables causing me to lose distance in the gears...
 
it dosnt grind. it takes lots of force to even get it to slightly engage i have nothing blocking the cables i have looked over that.

it only started after i did this rebuild. is there a difference in trannys between a 6bolt and 7bolt motor??
 
man that is weird!...ive used the same transmission to do a 6bolt in my 2g.. and back to a 7bolt.. no problems at all... but as i changed my clutch, plate, and flywheel.. the distance used to compress the clutch was dramatically reduced...(think somethin is goin out of my spring needs to be adjusted..)...
is all the vac lines connected on the master? and did you bleed the lines?
 
TOB stands for Throw out bearing. It is the bearing that slides around on the transmissions input shaft and presses on the pressure plate to disengage the clutch.
 
I don't know how the link above is helpful. He just can't get into gear with the car running, he does not have a starting problem. I would properly bleed the master/slave and make sure both are aren't leaking. Same exact thing happened to an MR2 v6 swap I just got doing, the slave was worn and prevented it from shifting into any gear when the car was running. My bet is the slave.
 
I don't know how the link above is helpful. He just can't get into gear with the car running, he does not have a starting problem. I would properly bleed the master/slave and make sure both are aren't leaking. Same exact thing happened to an MR2 v6 swap I just got doing, the slave was worn and prevented it from shifting into any gear when the car was running. My bet is the slave.

The link above is helpful IF you took time to read it you would see why. The bushing that was causing his problems had to be removed. In that particular thread he was using an aftermarket clutch with a different designed pressure plate.

If this guy is running and OEM clutch and didnt remove it then its likely the car would not engage because of binding on the pressure plate not allowing the clutch to disengage. Have you ever tried shifting gears without the car running without pressing in the clutch?

And I also stated we discussed ever possibility of problems within the tranny.. such as master and slave cylinder clutch fork etc... :applause:
 
I had a problem similar to this not to long ago.

First I would check the PP bolts in relation to the FW.

B/c I know the torque spec did not allow my PP to be flushed with the FW.

Worth looking into.
 
k so i have tryed bleeding the system again and nothing has changed. its got full push on the slave cylinder . would it be possible that the FW is to thick or sitting out to far as its not giving enough room for disengagement??
 
k so i have tryed bleeding the system again and nothing has changed. its got full push on the slave cylinder . would it be possible that the FW is to thick or sitting out to far as its not giving enough room for disengagement??

Did you get it stepped? If the FW is new and the fork sits closer to the driver's side then more than likely you should be fine.

Regardless, the tranny is going to have to come off, if you are getting full throw from the slave cylinder and the shifter cables are fine.:|
 
yeah its a brand new ACT street lite FW and i dont know what else i am lookin for to being wrong

If your M/c & S/c are new and bled properly, then the tranny is going to have to come out.

I just finished my 6bolt swap not to long ago. I would check the relation of the PP and the FW. Does the pedal feel lighter than before the swap?
 
If the splines of the new disk are too tight on the input shaft, you would have this problem. It has to slide easily; sometimes with a new disk it will bind, and the disk will be pressed against the pressure plate after assembly.

See if you can start it in gear without the car taking off. If it seems to release partially when you press the pedal, but grabs solid when you release the pedal, then that's probably the issue.
 
try different spots on the clutch pedal and see if it wants to go into gear any better. could be a mc, slave, or pedal freeplay adj
 
ok thanks guys i will keep u all posted if works or not. i have tryed two different clutch types so i am going to look at the splines and see if one has a nick. i i had it moving by starting it in first today. before that i had it running and pushed it up to first it would make the car star rollign but would not engauge no matter how hard i push it would not go..
 
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