The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1G Car Cranks, No Start. Fuel to Rail, no injector pulse

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Status
Not open for further replies.

baughb

Probationary Member
10
0
Nov 19, 2004
Spokane, Washington
Done my homework so far. Picked up a 92 Laser RS Turbo AWD 5 Speed for $300. Girl said it stopped starting after it got cold. Replaced the coolant sensor and pigtail, verified proper reading there, still nothing. Checked for spark and its there. Removed the fitting and have proper pressure going to the fuel rail. Pulled an injector and tested with NOID light. It doesn't pulse at all when cranking, but as soon as you stop cranking, it kicks on once. Pulled the ECU and replaced the caps (2 of which were leaking). Checked all the leads and traces and all seems to place properly and w/in spec. Ran a compression check (though its been sitting for a while), showed 190+ on all 4 cold. Tested the Cam sensor and replaced, once again to no avail.

Im wondering if my coolant sensor is still bad and causing this problem, or if its a toasted computer. I can't pull codes because the battery had been disconnected for over a month. She said that her brother had said it needed a coolant sensor?

Also wondering if the timing belt could have slipped a few teeth, knocked it out of timing and is causing some weird ass problem that I cant think of.

ANY POSATIVE INPUT WOULD HELP!!!!

freaking dsm =(
 
I have the same problem. Can you explain this NOID light? Where do I get one and how do I use it? Sorry I can't help you with your problem.
 
It's an LED w/ two prong on it. You plug it into your injector harness where the injector would normally be. It flashes on when it pulses, so you can see if they are opening properly when the car is cranking/firing. I have some at work that I snagged, but I think you may be able to rent them at a CSK (Schucks), Napa, etc. Those car part stores normally rent more expensive tools. They're not usually to cheap.

So now two people with this problem?

I'm gettin an ECU from a buddys running DSM this week to try and see if the injection control is just shot in my ECU.

No idea's from anyone?
 
Usually when the injectors don't fire its the coolant temp sensor. Yours may be bad that you put in. BTW you did do good research :thumb: Try another sensor, if that doesn't work try an ecu like you are doing.
 
I'll pull my sensor tonite and do the test to see it ifs faulty. I'll also trace the wires and see if I'm screwed up somewhere. I'm sure all data has the proper voltage in that sensor too.....

I really hope its the sensor. $20 is a lot better than $150 =)
 
I had the same problem and fixing the wires on my coolant sensor fixed it up. Check the wires also to make sure they are not broken/corroded, if they seem alright you must have a bad sensor. Also you might want to check the MPI relay and fuse(relay is the gold box near ECU and the fuse is one of the ones right off the battery.
 
I replaced the pigtail on the coolant sensor when I replaced it as well.... We'll see tonite I guess. The cute girl from Napa is gonna get a piece of my..... mind if the sensor is bad already.

What gold box next to the ECU contains the relay? The one under the kick panel on the drivers side?

Thanks again for all the help guys, Ill let ya know later on what I find
 
Its a small gold box(same color as ecu) that is right infront of the ecu(towards the back of the car.) It is bolted to the brackets up there. The actual MPI is right near the coil pack on a bracket connected to the intake manifold(driver's side.)
 
Checked the resistance on the coolant sensor while still in the motor. Showed the resistance for having a temperature of over 104F.... so I think it shit out again. We'll try a new one and see, still hoping to grab that computer again too. Checked the MPI relay and it was ok, will check the fuse tonite too...

Thanks again for the extra idea's guys! :thumb:
 
190+psi cold is quite a bit of compression, pull your plugs and see if theyre's a pool of gas in there, if your t-belt jumped a few teeth that could be the cause of that aswell
 
Replacing the caps in the ECU doesn't mean there isn't damage to the board itself. Even if the timing belt was off, it would have nothing to do with the feul injectors opening.

My vote is a bad ECU. It will also show CE lights for sensor even if they are good.
 
I'm thinking the same thing on the ECU. I checked for any damage, followed traces and what not... but whatever.

I think I'm going to just go w/ the computer and see if that solves it.

Freaking DSM =\
 
*UPDATE*

Ohm's on the coolant sensor while still in the car are way off..... reading like 1.5 at cold.... which should be the reading for 100+

Tried my buddies 93 TSI Auto CPU. Car half ass kicked over like it wanted to fire (a leap in what ive seen), but then nothing.

Tried my computer in his car, and it fired right up.... but idled really poorly.

So? I'm thinking sensor again, and computer still...... Any more ideas?
 
:shhh: Just like most other forums, the mod's just close a post instead of just deleting the poll...... so I'll just re-post all my information again! :shhh:

:cry:

Old Post's

Done my homework so far. Picked up a 92 Laser RS Turbo AWD 5 Speed for $300. Girl said it stopped starting after it got cold. Replaced the coolant sensor and pigtail, verified proper reading there, still nothing. Checked for spark and its there. Removed the fitting and have proper pressure going to the fuel rail. Pulled an injector and tested with NOID light. It doesn't pulse at all when cranking, but as soon as you stop cranking, it kicks on once. Pulled the ECU and replaced the caps (2 of which were leaking). Checked all the leads and traces and all seems to place properly and w/in spec. Ran a compression check (though its been sitting for a while), showed 190+ on all 4 cold. Tested the Cam sensor and replaced, once again to no avail.

I have now tried another ECU from a 93 TSI Auto. It would turn over, and started to fire (I actually hit 1500rpm's ONCE... YAY), but then back to just cranking. So I starting thinking ECU, but then I tried my ECU in his car, and it fired right up, but with a kinda lumpy idle.

Coolant sensor is showing 1.5 ohms w/ sensor still in the coolant elbow and the car cold. According to Chiltons, thats showing a temp of like 101F.... which isn't possible.

So, back to the old post, seeing if anyone has more options? I'm gonna replace the sensor tonite and then... who knows.
 
Keep us posted. I picked up a noid light kit to see if I have clogged injectors or if they're just not getting a signal. Then I got the flu and haven't had a chance to use it. I think it is funny that, at around the same time, we both picked up 92 Laser RS turbo AWD 5 speeds for cheap that have spark and fuel going to the rail but won't start.
 
I had the exact same problem on my car. I though it was the ECU but it checked good. Anyways after three days of trouble shooting I put a 1G CAS and it fired right up. So go to a junkyard and get another CAS because they are really expensive new.
 
id check the ecu first. was there any strange smells, like rotten seafood when u were tryin to start it? thats a common sign of the caps kleakin on the board. pull the ecu and check for leaking caps. thats the more common problem. if not that then i agree with the cas possibly being shit.
 
Already replaced the cap on the old computer. They were leaking, but didn't seem any damage, and all the traces pan out.

CAS shows proper voltage at the plug, im wondering if thats it too....

Are all the CAS's the same from the DOHC motors? Because the 2.0 N/Ts and the Hyundai Elantra's have the same head......

Thanks again for more input.
 
I checked mine today with the noid lights. I had 5 of them from a kit: 2 GM's, a Geo, a Ford, and a Bosch. None of them lit up at all. But none of them seemed to be too great of a fit into the injector plug. I can't find a Mitsubishi noid light anywhere.
 
same problem here man. Only thing I havent tried is a new CPS. Bosch makes our injectors I believe
 
yeah same exact thing happen to me. it was the crank angle sensor for me. have you fixed your problem ?
 
I have a 97 eclipse turbo 2 liter, the injectors 1 and 2 are firing but 3 and 4 aren't. Have spark to all plugs, will sometimes start and run at about 250 rpm but dies the second you open the throttle. Is this a ECU problem? I have checked every sensor, fuel pressure and voltages but no answers yet. The car was in a front end wreck and sat for a couple of years. Also if it is the unit, where is the best place to get a ECU with warranty?
:beatentodeath:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 NEW Stop Tech Drilled And Slotted Rotors
    New Stop Tech Drilled & Slotted Rotors $70 + shipping and paypal fees* FITS * Eclipse GST...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G GSX/GST Manual Transmission Steel & Poly Mount
    2G GSX/GST Manual Transmission Mount (Steel & Poly) $45 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 1991 tsi AWD auto engine harness
    Looking for a engine harness for my 1991 eagle talon AWD tsi auto trans If anyone has one hit...
    • sanmantsi72
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1997 eagle talon tsi
    I have a 1997 eagle talon tsi fwd auto for sale. It has 108k miles and in good condition.Recent...
    • El_marto
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 PARTS
    Cleaning out my shop closet, Buyer covers shipping & fee.Parts:.20 Over Turbo 6-Bolt Block...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top