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Can't get rid of knock Need more idea's

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DJ23GSX

20+ Year Contributor
773
6
Feb 22, 2004
W. Springfield, Massachusetts
I am having some knock issues at 19psi and 93 octane that i can't tune out. I am pushing my idc's close to 95% on the 560's @ 42psi bfp and still can't get rid of it. I can't seem to get knock under 12-15 counts no matter how much fuel i add or take away. My mods are in my profile. I would love to turn the boost down but thanks to the great porting from sbr it creeps to 19psi by 5k.

So far i have fixed or tried these things

1. New Knock sensor retourqued a few times with no change in knock
2. New fuel filter
3. Fixed all boost leaks (including the AFPR)
4. Raised my base fp up to 45psi
5. Different 2g mas
6. New plugs
7. Rewired the 255
8. New caps in ecu
9. Air filter box with hose plumbed with ambient air
10. Took foglight out and trimmed the i/c duct to fit the mkiv i/c better
11. Checked the fuel pump seal and cleaned the pump bag filter


I get pk when the car is cold and driving normal but it goes away after the car is warmed up. I don't think its pk i am seeing under boost though as it does go up and down if i add or take fuel away. I just can't tune it for 0 knock. It doesn't seem like i should have to add this much fuel. The next thing i would like to try is bringing my base timing down a bit. I also have a set 650's but i don't think i should need that much fuel for this set up from what i've been reading in other threads with similar mods.
 
I just got back from my mechanics shop and he say's there's something wrong timing wise cause according to the timing light its reading 50-60* advanced at idle with the terminal on the firewall grounded
When my crank pulley jumped a tooth I had a base ignition timing reading about 1/3 that, so you may have jumped 3 teeth (which might not be sogood to the valves?)

One thing i noticed as well when i was changing my power steering belt is that the two notches in the cam gears a lined up but are facing straight up and not facing each other in the middle like everything i've seen and read about those marks.
The dowel pin/keys in the cams that pass thru the cam sprockets should be at 12 o'clock at TDC, but the notches in the cam gears themselves should be facing each other.

As Darren mentions above, BOTH the cams and Crank have to be at TDC together. You cannot look at one independently of the other. An Easy DIY way I've found to rule out any uncertainty (without pulling the timing covers apart) is to use a long screwdriver placed down the #1 sparkplug hole to find TDC in the #1 cyl (e.g. turn the crank pulley CLOCKWISE until the screwdriver is at top "mid-dwell" (e.g. will pause at the top for a couple degrees crank rotation btw ascending and decending).

Once this point is found, your cams marks should be facing with the dowels pointing up and the notch in the crank pully should be at TDC on the lower timing cover scale. If this is not the case, you have either an impromperly installed timing belt, one that jumped teeth or your crank pulley is separated :dsm:
 
Once this point is found, your cams marks should be facing with the dowels pointing up and the notch in the crank pully should be at TDC on the lower timing cover scale. If this is not the case, you have either an impromperly installed timing belt, one that jumped teeth or your crank pulley is separated :dsm:
John don't forget there are two different TDCs so he might have to turn the crank over twice.
 
John don't forget there are two different TDCs so he might have to turn the crank over twice.
Forgot to mention that point.. was all caught up in those boostcreep trainwreck posts above :p

Since the cams turn at 1/2 the crank speed, be sure to stop manually rotating the crank sprocket at screwdrive arrives at "Mid-Dwell" and the cam dowels are pointing up :dsm:
 
John don't forget there are two different TDCs so he might have to turn the crank over twice.



I did indeed have to turn the crank over twice and this is what i found. It doesn't look too bad to me how about you?

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PS my ecu finally bit the dust this weekend and i just put in my motoguys garage rebuilt one in yesterday and i was able to lean out the safc about 4% and still maintain 0 knock @ 16psi but i noticed my idc's seem alot more stable so far. No more jumping around like the old ecu but i only put it in yesterday and haven't had much time to make many pulls so we'll see.
 
That's dead-on if the crank pointer is at TDC on the lower timing scale :thumb:

Yea a flaky ECU can do some strange things. Hope that turns out to be your problem / fix :dsm:

I didn't check the crank pointer but i used the screwdriver trick you suggested.



Shouldve bought a eprom from jeff and got it chipped IMO ...


Apparently you didn't read any of my previous post about not having $480 for a fmic so why would i have it for a chipped eprom?
 
Ok i did a few pulls at 18psi and this is my log from the last/best pull its a 2nd to 3rd gear pull.
My only question is about my injector p/w and idc's. I noticed at 6688rpm's in second gear my p/w is 15.1 and my idc is 84% but at 5100rpm's in 3rd grear my p/w is also 15.1 but my idc's are only 65%. This might sound stupid but why are my idc's off so much even though the p/w's are the same? I thought the p/w and idc's were directly related to each other.

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/2341/dataloglr0.jpg
 
***UPDATE***UPDATE***


Well after quite a few emails back and forth with pocketlogger i finally figured out my idc issues. Its actually a bug in the pocketlogger's software. It doesn't hold the correct min/max idc values in big display mode which is where i was seeing my idc's soar above 100%.

After viewing some old logs in PLviewer with the 560's my idc's were never over 94% even thought big display showed them at 115% sometimes. I've even seen a few pulls at 100% on the 650's but when i pull up the same log in PLviewer they are only reaching a peak of 84% which is actually the correct idc according to the pocketlogger tech.
 
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