DGajre777
DSM Wiseman
- 4,772
- 132
- Jul 16, 2004
-
Orlando,
Florida
First of all, Happy Thanksgiving, fellow DSMTuners! The last week has been stressful thanks to my car (and a few other things), but hopefully someone can help me figure this out.
I have an oil leak near the exhaust manifold. The stud on the top right side of the manifold needs a helicoil but I still managed to put the stud back in. There's oil leaking around the exhaust manifold and I'm sure the stud in the middle is loose but since I haven't cleaned it up in a few weeks, I don't know the source of the leak anymore.
3 days ago my clutch died, car wouldn't move until 6000 RPM. I had the car towed to a shop nearby (one I hadn't used before)
to put in a Fidanza 2.1. They took the tranny apart and found that the ACT flywheel was completed chewed up by the ACT 2100 and 6 puck sprung hub disc (3.5 years, 25k).
I found a new 7 bolt flywheel at a local Clutch rebuild shop and when I told the guy that I was looking for one with a step of 0.610", he said that the flywheel was 200th of an inch and would work fine.
The owner of the shop I went to (where the clutch was being replaced) was being an ass and told me that if I didn't have a flywheel within an hour, he would have to charge me labor to be able to roll the car off the rack and labor again to put the flywheel again. But luckily, I found the flywheel and his "quick 4 hour clutch job on Friday" ended up finishing on Monday at 3pm.
When I called to ask if the car was ready, the owner said that the car doesn't go in any gear and I need to shut the car off to make it go in gear.
I asked him if he had adjusted the clutch pedal and his response was "You don't adjust a clutch pedal on a hydraulic system" WTF. Anyways, I picked up the car, the pedal was engaging off the floor (I guess the guy was short and couldn't push the pedal all the way in with my Corbeau seats). I adjusted the pedal and the car ran fine.
I checked the oil yesterday and it was about a quart, so I put a quart in and it was over halfway inbetween the two hash marks. The battery was off for over 3 days and the car idles at 200 RPM. I adjusted the pedal out a little too much and I heard rattling noises that appear to be coming from the transmission area at high RPM and smoking smell from the clutch disc. I adjusted the pedal back in a bit and the car runs better without any TRANS rattle and engages at a point where I can drive it. When I drive the car around, the RPM falls back down from 3000 to 0 very quickly and the car shuts off. I have to push the gas pedal, while pushing the clutch down and pulling on the parking brake to slow the car down.
This morning, I took it to my regular shop to put a Prothane side mount in that I couldn't get out cause the damn bolt was stuck. I had my usual guy look at the rattle noise and he said it appeared to come from under the valve train. I borrowed his a stereoscopic and the rattle appears to be coming from one of the exhaust lifters in line with runner # 3 on the FP manifold. I also have a custom bracket to mount the FP manifold heat shied so I don't know if that's the cause of the rattle, but I'm wondering if I should take it off to see the bracket or manifold its causing the rattle.
A friend of mine from Tuners told me to try some Lucas Oil Stabilizer (Pure Synthetic), so I put 1/2 a bottle in in the car. The oil level now reads 1/2-3/4 quarts OVER the top has mark BUT my oil pressure gauge now reads 1mm above L, while still idling at 200 RPM. IF I'm OVER the top hash of the oil level, my oil pressure should be reading HIGH, not LOW, so why is it reading low?
I also don't understand why the valvetrain rattle starts at 3000 RPM or why it is idling at 200 RPM. I drove around for over 30 mins and the ECU should have readjusted all its settings by now.
IF the oil pressure sensor is dead, the why is my engine rattling? If it is not dead and my oil pump is dead, how is my engine still running and not seized up? Engine does not overheat and the OIL light is not ON.
I know the oil light works because it came on for 1/2 a second when I was low on oil about 2 weeks ago.
I'm leaking towards a failed or failing oil pump. Since I don't have another car anymore, I don't have any option but to fix this car. Any ideas?
I have an oil leak near the exhaust manifold. The stud on the top right side of the manifold needs a helicoil but I still managed to put the stud back in. There's oil leaking around the exhaust manifold and I'm sure the stud in the middle is loose but since I haven't cleaned it up in a few weeks, I don't know the source of the leak anymore.
3 days ago my clutch died, car wouldn't move until 6000 RPM. I had the car towed to a shop nearby (one I hadn't used before)
to put in a Fidanza 2.1. They took the tranny apart and found that the ACT flywheel was completed chewed up by the ACT 2100 and 6 puck sprung hub disc (3.5 years, 25k).I found a new 7 bolt flywheel at a local Clutch rebuild shop and when I told the guy that I was looking for one with a step of 0.610", he said that the flywheel was 200th of an inch and would work fine.
The owner of the shop I went to (where the clutch was being replaced) was being an ass and told me that if I didn't have a flywheel within an hour, he would have to charge me labor to be able to roll the car off the rack and labor again to put the flywheel again. But luckily, I found the flywheel and his "quick 4 hour clutch job on Friday" ended up finishing on Monday at 3pm.
When I called to ask if the car was ready, the owner said that the car doesn't go in any gear and I need to shut the car off to make it go in gear.
I asked him if he had adjusted the clutch pedal and his response was "You don't adjust a clutch pedal on a hydraulic system" WTF. Anyways, I picked up the car, the pedal was engaging off the floor (I guess the guy was short and couldn't push the pedal all the way in with my Corbeau seats). I adjusted the pedal and the car ran fine. I checked the oil yesterday and it was about a quart, so I put a quart in and it was over halfway inbetween the two hash marks. The battery was off for over 3 days and the car idles at 200 RPM. I adjusted the pedal out a little too much and I heard rattling noises that appear to be coming from the transmission area at high RPM and smoking smell from the clutch disc. I adjusted the pedal back in a bit and the car runs better without any TRANS rattle and engages at a point where I can drive it. When I drive the car around, the RPM falls back down from 3000 to 0 very quickly and the car shuts off. I have to push the gas pedal, while pushing the clutch down and pulling on the parking brake to slow the car down.
This morning, I took it to my regular shop to put a Prothane side mount in that I couldn't get out cause the damn bolt was stuck. I had my usual guy look at the rattle noise and he said it appeared to come from under the valve train. I borrowed his a stereoscopic and the rattle appears to be coming from one of the exhaust lifters in line with runner # 3 on the FP manifold. I also have a custom bracket to mount the FP manifold heat shied so I don't know if that's the cause of the rattle, but I'm wondering if I should take it off to see the bracket or manifold its causing the rattle.
A friend of mine from Tuners told me to try some Lucas Oil Stabilizer (Pure Synthetic), so I put 1/2 a bottle in in the car. The oil level now reads 1/2-3/4 quarts OVER the top has mark BUT my oil pressure gauge now reads 1mm above L, while still idling at 200 RPM. IF I'm OVER the top hash of the oil level, my oil pressure should be reading HIGH, not LOW, so why is it reading low?
I also don't understand why the valvetrain rattle starts at 3000 RPM or why it is idling at 200 RPM. I drove around for over 30 mins and the ECU should have readjusted all its settings by now.
IF the oil pressure sensor is dead, the why is my engine rattling? If it is not dead and my oil pump is dead, how is my engine still running and not seized up? Engine does not overheat and the OIL light is not ON.
I know the oil light works because it came on for 1/2 a second when I was low on oil about 2 weeks ago. I'm leaking towards a failed or failing oil pump. Since I don't have another car anymore, I don't have any option but to fix this car. Any ideas?
