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cant figure out this tranny problem need help!

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avengerKid

15+ Year Contributor
135
1
Mar 6, 2011
Glendale, Arizona
Hi everyone i have been working on my 90 laser turbo for the past two months and can't figure out this problem for the life of me i am stumped an am looking to you guys here for some guidance. I hope you can help me get this problem figured out thank you in advance! Okay so i have replaced pretty much everything in the drive train. I installed new master an slave cylinder both have been bleed properly an master is extended all the way out for the best throw. I've also replaced the clutch flywheel and pressure plate and still nothing. I then replaced the pivot ball and clutch fork an shimmed the pivot ball. Still nothing has happened. The car will not go into gear at all but when the car is off it will go into every gear just fine. I have also been browsing threw the forums looking for some info on this i have done everything i have seen to do on the forums but still the same result. Someone please help i have no clue on what to do to fix this problem it is my dd and really need to get it running thank you!
 
We went to pull the clutch pedal assembly out of the nt 93 and the assembly looks different then the one in my car right now. Does it matter if its different or will it work in the same way?

Is there a site i can buy the pedal assembly i need? Also, is there another good way to bleed the car including the master cylinder? Where can i buy a ss braided clutch line? thank you all for the good information!
 
Shep's the only one I know of that sells the rebuilt clutch pedal assembly: DSM FWD Driveline Products

For SS clutch line: Clutch Lines : JNZ Tuning
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
Road Race Engineering's Eclipse Drivetrain Upgrades
https://secure.buschurracing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=391&osCsid=a494baad4d4cddbf5bd5a7b9a7a8f2d1
...and I'm sure many, many others.

As for bleeding, check Jafro's videos on Youtube: YouTube - Jafromobile's Channel

Here's some advice from some of the experts on these issues; you can take it for what it's worth:
...First off, I would fully adjust the master cylinder rod in towards the firewall and bleed the clutch several times. Then, after it is bled in the fully-in position, I would then start threading the master rod away from the firewall (outward) until you reach the proper engagement for the clutch to have full disengagement, yet not over-engaging the clutch causing pressure plate and TOB damage.

Have you checked your master and slave cylinders for any leakage from the seals or at the bleeder screw or line connections?
...
{again for clarity}...adjust the master cylinder rod outward (towards the pedal assembly/ away from the firewall), then bleed the hydraulic assembly, then thread the rod back towards the firewall until you find your proper adjustment. Do this with the vehicle OFF to find the proper pedal throw required. Then check with the car on after you have it adjusted to make sure that you don't have it over-extending the clutch during disengagement.

You may have a worn clutch pedal assembly. Try pulling UP on the pedal by hand. If you can move it up, it's bad and needs to be replaced. Absolutely DO NOT weld it! Welding doesn't work and I don't care what anyone says about that.

Are the slave and master parts from the dealer? If you got them online or through an autoparts store, they are junk and you have to use the factory parts from Mitsu. The aftermarket parts never work correctly and have a high failure rate.

If all above is correct and good, then did you back out the cruise control switch at the upper stop of the clutch pedal? If not, that will give you more throw too. If that still isn't enough, it is rare, but you might have to extend the master rod. NOT the slave rod, as that doesn't work, I am talking about the master rod under the dash. The way you do this is when you adjust the master rod, do you see the locking nut at the bracket end? Weld that nut to the bracket. Add another nut to be used as a locking nut. The welded nut will allow you to adjust the master rod out more so you can get to that point where you have the most throw.

If none of that works, then the clutch disk is broken, pressure plate is warped badly, or there is a flywheel step height issue.
 
i had the same problem when i had my brand new act 2600 clutch, install it and same thing it wouldn't go in gears only when motor is off. i resurface the flywheel and new slave. it end up being my pressure plate was defected and send it back to act and they sent me a new one. put that in and everything worked. could be different though, i bled the slave, and clutch adjustment and everything, that's what happend to me. i'm guessing your's probably defected as well.
 
Well i don't think the flywheel is the problem because it did the same thing with the stock one in there to. My pedal assembly does have some play and when i press the pedal down it starts to have pressure about an inch or two from the floor and the slave cylinder only extends about 1/4 an inch an i heard it's supposed to extend 3/4 of an inch is this correct? Thank you all for the good information.

Also, both my slave and master cylinders are from oreilys auto parts store.
 
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