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cant figure out this tranny problem need help!

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avengerKid

15+ Year Contributor
135
1
Mar 6, 2011
Glendale, Arizona
Hi everyone i have been working on my 90 laser turbo for the past two months and can't figure out this problem for the life of me i am stumped an am looking to you guys here for some guidance. I hope you can help me get this problem figured out thank you in advance! Okay so i have replaced pretty much everything in the drive train. I installed new master an slave cylinder both have been bleed properly an master is extended all the way out for the best throw. I've also replaced the clutch flywheel and pressure plate and still nothing. I then replaced the pivot ball and clutch fork an shimmed the pivot ball. Still nothing has happened. The car will not go into gear at all but when the car is off it will go into every gear just fine. I have also been browsing threw the forums looking for some info on this i have done everything i have seen to do on the forums but still the same result. Someone please help i have no clue on what to do to fix this problem it is my dd and really need to get it running thank you!
 
Dude, put crankwalk out of your mind. That is a 1 in a million chance. I seriously doubt that's what it is.
 
Well i bought the car and the guy i bought it from only had the two top bolts mounting the tranny to the block. So when i would push in the clutch the tranny would flex. I didnt know this at the time of purchase. I drove the car around for about two weeks then one day on my way home the car wouldnt go into gear.So me an a buddy pulled the tranny thinking it might just be the clutch. Thus finding out only the two top bolts were only holding the tranny on the block. So when we get the tranny down the cylinder the tob glides on broke clean off the tranny. I bought a new tranny an installed it an now have all these problem. The car drove for about two days after the tranny swap. Then just stopped going into gear an haven't been able to fix the problem since. What do you all think the problem can be crankwalk?

I'll try to put it out my head but i just don't know what else could cause this.
 
And when you replaced the transmission did you put a new clutch and TOB in it? Or were the previously listed clutch and flywheel already in the car when you got it?
 
TOB is a new oem one an the fork and ball are new and i have one washer behind the ball. My buddy just came by an we measured the throw of my slave cylinder and it only had about 1/4 inch of throw.
 
Ok, I'm going to go ahead and say that is a small amount of throw. It should have much much more than that.

Does it only move that far because that is the most the slave will move it?

Or is it hitting on the passenger side of the hole and stopping?
 
With the two person method. I have a buddy pump the clutch 3-4 times then i crack the bleeder valve on the slave open. I have done this process multiple times an air doesn't come out when i crack it just fluid. You think it could be the clutch pedal assembly?
 
He did shim it.

With the two person method. I have a buddy pump the clutch 3-4 times then i crack the bleeder valve on the slave open. I have done this process multiple times an air doesn't come out when i crack it just fluid. You think it could be the clutch pedal assembly?


Just making sure, but you are closing the bleeder valve while he still has the pedal down correct?

Cause if he lets it up before you close the valve it'll just suck up a bunch of air.
 
Hmmmm. Well I wonder if your flywheel is out of spec.

Were they ever checked by a machine shop before you put them on?

But still, that does not explain why your slave is hardly moving?

Look up under your dash and see fi the master is leaking, even if it is new.
 
I am asking if you had either flywheel checked to see if the step height was correct and within spec?

Not about the clutch disk or if you used a new flywheel, you can get defective brand new parts.
 
I would have a shop do it. I only say that because I can't remember what the damn gauge is called. A normal dial guage would work I guess.

But yeah, I would just run it by a shop and let them do it. It should only take them a few minutes to check.
 
Alright I'll do that in the next day or two. Do i take it to a machine shop or would a tranny shop be able to measure this? The correct step height is .610 right? Also, do you happen to know if a worn clutch pedal assembly can cause this?
 
Yes, a worn clutch pedal assembly can cause the issue. You can either replace it, or take it out and go have it welded back the way it should be.

I would think a trans shop could. I would just run it by a napa though.
 
.610 is the correct step height for an ACT pressure plate and clutch disc. Other mfgr's will have diff. specs. Also, welding a clutch pedal assembly is mostly for backyard DIY'ers. No trans or repair shop is gonna have a clue what you are talking about, much less know exactly how to do it.

Did you bench bleed the new master cylinder before you installed it?
 
.610 is the correct step height for an ACT pressure plate and clutch disc. Other mfgr's will have diff. specs. Also, welding a clutch pedal assembly is mostly for backyard DIY'ers. No trans or repair shop is gonna have a clue what you are talking about, much less know exactly how to do it.

Did you bench bleed the new master cylinder before you installed it?
 
Well, any welding shop can weld it up as long as he tells them how to do it.

Do you have any idea what the +/- tolerance on the step height is?
 
I didn't bench bleed the master. I know how to bench bleed the slave but not sure on the master. I also don't know what the +/- tolerance on the step height is. What is it exactly?

Also does anyone know the correct step height for the xtd stage 4 clutch kit?
 
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