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Can you remove the oilpan without removing the motor?

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versatilx1

15+ Year Contributor
229
5
Jun 18, 2005
oxnard, California
Hey guys i have a problem here i want to checking to see the rod bearings but i need to know if i have to remove the engine or can i just drop the pan?
 
You can just drop the pan. Just remove the things that are in the way, for me (FWD), it was just the downpipe.
 
It can be done, but it'll involve lots of cussing, bleeding, more cussing, and even more cussing. I'm assuming you have a cherry picker, 'cause if you don't you won't be able to get the oil pan out once it's unbolted.

You'll need to remove the transfer case, unbolt the downpipe, and unbolt the front halfshaft carrier. You'll also have a hell of a time trying to get two of the bolts that are located at the back of the engine on the driver's side. It's a tight space, so make sure you have a wrench because a socket won't get in there.

Removing the pan will be tricky because the RTV pretty much glues the pan to the block. A good thin prybar will work. I highly recommend against using a screwdriver, but if you're left with no other alternative, be very careful. It's real easy to bend the lip of the pan and create leaks when you have to put the pan back in.

Once you have it unbolted, you'll run into the second problem: Actually getting the damn thing out. On my 1G, I had a few problems. The first problem was that the driver's side crossmember got in the way of removing the pan. The second problem was that there was a ledge inside of the pan that the oil pickup would get caught on. It's tricky trying to manuever that pan between the crossmember and the flywheel, while trying to keep the pickup from being caught on that inner ledge. I had to remove the driver's side mount and use the cherry picker to lift the engine up enough to clear everything.

As for putting it back in, I can't tell you that. I left the pan off after I discovered I had a spun bearing and just pulled the engine out with no oil pan.
 
if you take out the cross member you done need a cherry picker i just pulled my motor and trany with out one
 
igopoopy said:
if you take out the cross member you done need a cherry picker i just pulled my motor and trany with out one

You pulled your engine and transmission without an engine hoist? WTF

Anyways, take a look at the diagram I included below. Follow those steps in order to remove the oil pan and in reverse order to reassemble. To remove the oil pan from the block you may use a large rubber hammer. I would recommend placing a piece of wood against your oil pan before you hit it with a rubber hammer. Do not use a screwdriver to pry the oil pan flange.
 

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Wonderful feedback guys apperciate the help im gonna see if i can tackle this task without having to pull the motor out of the engine bay i really dont mine doing that but prefer not too
 
You can do it. Just need some patience. I dropped my oil pan and removed the head and replaced my pistons/rings/bearings with the block and transmission on the car. I think that dropping the transfer case was the biggest pain (have to remove the rear driveshaft), but it can be done. Might as well put a new oil seal in the transfer case while it is off.
 
FWD: down pipe needs to come off
AWD: transfer case has to come off, and downpipe removed, or moved out of the way. I just unbolted mine at the O2 housing and moved it out of the way a bit.
 
CyberEye said:
I just unbolted mine at the O2 housing and moved it out of the way a bit.

Yeah the flex part gave enough for me to just pull it out of the way after unbolting it from the o2 housing.
 
Yeah serious man LOL but hey oh well just have to put in some work then how hard is it to take the transfer case off?
 
versatilx1 said:
Yeah serious man LOL but hey oh well just have to put in some work then how hard is it to take the transfer case off?

It's five 17 mm bolts. First time is hard because you can't really see the two upper bolts too well. Support the transfer case with a floor jack, grab a large screwdriver and pry it off of the dowels that hold it up. Once you have it free, pull it forward to get it off of the driveshaft. Do not leave the driveshaft just hanging on the ground. Get a wire hanger or some blocks of wood to hold the driveshaft up.

Do not tip the transfer case backwards or the gear oil will pour out and you'll have one big nasty mess on the floor.
 
I didnt really read the whole reply of posts here but i will let you know from my experience. You CAN drop the oil pan without removing everything. What you want to remove and drop is the t-case, the d/p, and remove teh 2 bolts on the carrier bearing (intermediate shaft), this will allow enought room to romove the oil pan bolts. I have done this.
 
Defiant said:
Be sure to take note that the bolts directly under the timing belt are shorter so that they won't hit the belt. Do not mess this up.
Are there only two bolts that are smaller? I know there are 19 total.
 
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