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Cam Upgrade???

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I think you have a good start on the mods for your car. Is this motor a 6 bolt or 7 bolt. If its a 7 bolt i would worry about finding a 6bolt. Other wise i would get dsm link or something of the sort so you can tune the car and then buy your cams and cam gears and valve springs. Then you will get the full potential out of your cams.
 
so do i have to switch my whole engine, or swapping my crank with a 6bolt can fix the issue?.... as of i heard, every engine has the chance to crankwalk, swapping to a 6 bolt just minimizes the problem...

yes its a 7 bolt, unless some one or you swapped the motor? hope that helps.

and yes that helped... now im sure i got a 7-bolt since i got my stock engine...

btw, which would be the best cams suited for my goal?... im aiming for 400whp and daily driving...
 
You cant swap just the crank. You need a 6bolt block crank rods oil pump and oil pan all for a 6bolt. You can run your 2G head with a few small modifications to save you money. If it were me i would just start searching for the block and rest of the items before you upgrade anything else. Hopefully you can have a 6 bolt ready before you get crank walk. One way to tell if you have crank walk is if you go around a left turn and your clutch sticks to the floor then its a good possibility you have it.
 
well right now thank god i dont think my car is crankwalking... what mods should i do to my 2g head before the cams? and which cams are best suited for street and daily driving? thank you for the info :)
 
:tease:"crank wall"?????? haha its crank walk and NO it doesn't happen to every 7 bolt. There are plenty of 7 bolts that have no sign of crank walk. THINK about it, if it happened to every 7 bolt there would be a recall for it.

LOL yea i thought of that already... i think its just bad luck... is every 7 bolt had crankwalked i think that would be a main topic in any mod made to a 2g
 
well right now thank god i dont think my car is crankwalking... what mods should i do to my 2g head before the cams? and which cams are best suited for street and daily driving? thank you for the info :)

Depending on how many miles are on the car if it hasnt crank walked yet then most likely its not going to crank walk. Everyone is hell bent on crank walk and the 7 bolt. If you take the precautionary measures, unhook you clutch switch so you dont have to depress the clutch to start and dont sit at stop lights with your clutch pedal depressed, these can cause premature wear on the thrust bearings
 
Depending on how many miles are on the car if it hasnt crank walked yet then most likely its not going to crank walk. Everyone is hell bent on crank walk and the 7 bolt. If you take the precautionary measures, unhook you clutch switch so you dont have to depress the clutch to start and dont sit at stop lights with your clutch pedal depressed, these can cause premature wear on the thrust bearings

LOL if it depends on mileage... honestly i dont think my car is ever going to crank walk, i have driven 178,000 miles on my engine... and im thinking about getting a new clutch since i think mine is almost gone, was thinking about getting an act 2600

sooo now knowing my mileage, my goals and my upgrades... should I buy cams? or what should i upgrade next?
 
Before you do any modifications, make sure your maintenance is done. I saw that you're coming up on 180K so a timing belt job is right around the corner for you. Check the end play in the crank and do a compression & leak down test. That'll tell you if the engine is healthy enough for modifications. After that, I think your next upgrade should be a wideband oxygen sensor. Then get a way to tune your car (most likely DSMLink). Once you get that going, then upgrade your fuel injectors, get a manual boost controller and turn up the boost a bit at a time. Or take your car somewhere to be tuned. 400whp on a FWD car is a lot for the 2 wheels to handle. You are going to want to upgrade your differential in your trans. It'll help with traction. What size turbo are you running?
 
Before you do any modifications, make sure your maintenance is done. I saw that you're coming up on 180K so a timing belt job is right around the corner for you. Check the end play in the crank and do a compression & leak down test. That'll tell you if the engine is healthy enough for modifications. After that, I think your next upgrade should be a wideband oxygen sensor. Then get a way to tune your car (most likely DSMLink). Once you get that going, then upgrade your fuel injectors, get a manual boost controller and turn up the boost a bit at a time. Or take your car somewhere to be tuned. 400whp on a FWD car is a lot for the 2 wheels to handle. You are going to want to upgrade your differential in your trans. It'll help with traction. What size turbo are you running?

thx for the info flash... i got a manual boost controller already and wideband its on its way this week, im running a T3/T4 .50/.63 turbo... was thinking on doing a timing belt job when i buy the cam gears...
 
Honestly, the crank walk thing is so damn over rated. How many people actually have had a case of crank walk?

I'm running a stock 7 bolt with HKS 272s, stock cam gears and valve train, 14B and ECM Link and it's never let me down. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. At the same time, keep on top of the maintenance.

OP, if the car is new to you, put the cams in (do research on a brand but personally I do not like Regrinds or Brain Crower cams) and the cam gears. While you are in there do some new lifters (stock usually tick) and change the timing belt and water pump. Also look for any other issues and fix them now. You'll thank yourself later.

Most import thing with a DSM is maintenance!
 
Honestly, the crank walk thing is so damn over rated. How many people actually have had a case of crank walk?

I'm running a stock 7 bolt with HKS 272s, stock cam gears and valve train, 14B and ECM Link and it's never let me down. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. At the same time, keep on top of the maintenance.

OP, if the car is new to you, put the cams in (do research on a brand but personally I do not like Regrinds or Brain Crower cams) and the cam gears. While you are in there do some new lifters (stock usually tick) and change the timing belt and water pump. Also look for any other issues and fix them now. You'll thank yourself later.

Most import thing with a DSM is maintenance!

thank you blurred talon I totally agree with you... maintainance is the most important thing on ANY car LOL... how do those hks 272 cams work on your car? i heard 272 can be used for track and 264 are used for daily driving...
 
thx for the info flash... i got a manual boost controller already and wideband its on its way this week, im running a T3/T4 .50/.63 turbo... was thinking on doing a timing belt job when i buy the cam gears...

:ohdamn:

You have a larger turbo on with stock fuel (yes you have a larger pump but it's still stock fuel). Get larger injectors, a tuning device, and a logger before you go and damage your motor.

The timing belt and all components should have been the first thing you did unless you have paperwork verifying when it was last done. Along with all of your fluids. Never go by what someone said unless you where there when it was done.

Don't even bother with cams right now until you catch up on the required supporting mods first.

By the way, what brand is the turbo and what psi are you currently running? I'd like to see the CFM output that your are putting into the system and causing your injectors to be at 100%+ duty cycle causing you to run lean in the wrong way. How lean, I don't know. How much know you are getting is unknown as well.

Crank walk is over rated as said already. My stock 7 bolt died from rod knock but my "JDM" ROFL motor crank walked a week after installation. For the record don't go and try to find a "JDM" motor as it's the same damn thing as the USDM motor minus a couple parts which would be swapped out if you were upgrading anyway.
 
ok, talking about tunning devices, whats better? getting a plastic eclipse 98 ecu that i can go to the dyno and reflash+tune, or getting a dsmlink kit? obviously the dsmlink its way more expensive, but whats better? and do I have to tune my car before buying cams and cam gear?... and btw yea your right about the larger injectors im planning on buying them along with an aem uego wideband...
 
ok, talking about tunning devices, whats better? getting a plastic eclipse 98 ecu that i can go to the dyno and reflash+tune, or getting a dsmlink kit? obviously the dsmlink its way more expensive, but whats better? and do I have to tune my car before buying cams and cam gear?... and btw yea your right about the larger injectors im planning on buying them along with an aem uego wideband...

If you know how to work the 98/99 ECU than stick with that. Otherwise you'll need a 95 EPROM ECU but the interface is very friendly. I cannot say what is better personally as I only have used ECMLink (love it).

No, you don't have to tune your car before hand but choosing to get cams prior to fuel and tuning at this point is idiotic. Honestly you may notice more issues by allowing MORE air in which your injectors are already maxed out by throwing in some cams.

Tuning device and injectors should be your priority so you don't do engine damage. Afterwards (hopefully sooner than later) do all the maintenance that you skipped on, do a boost leak test. Next go ahead and get your wideband (personally prefer the Innovate LC-1 as it's a bit better) and then get the cams and gears if you are planning on getting them degreed.
 
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