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cam decision on stock motor

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spectr019

15+ Year Contributor
254
2
Oct 28, 2004
East Lansing, Michigan
Alright so I feel I've done enough on the outside to start moving on into the engine. I'm running 13s right now on a FP Big28 with 550cc injectors and a 190lph re-wired pump and all of the other well supporting mods for my setup. I'm curious as to whether I could go with Comp 264 cams with the stock cam gears and not sacrifice my idle or anything.
I've read other posts about people running 272 cams with my similar setup, but I'm not sure what else they have on the inside of the engine.
Basically, would I get a moderate power increase with just throwing in a pair of 264 cams while using my stock cam gears? Thanks for reading all this.

Ben :talon:
 
You would get a nice increase from cams. You don't need to upgrade any internals for the cam upgrade. You shouldn't need cam gears if you buy quality cams. Most can be run with stock gears.
 
I would suggest the tried and true 264/272 combo. I installed some on my car last year (before i built the motor) and noticed a significant gain with my small 16g. No low end was lost, but mid and top end gained a lot of power. THe car felt like it would keep pulling passed where it used to make power. I think when i installed cams/lifters and upped the boost like 2psi i dropped .5sec in the 1/4mile. I went from running 14flat to 13.5
 
Research ShapeGSX. He runs a evo3 16g (one of the first into the 11s). He noticed no difference in 1/4 mile ETs swapping between HKS 264s and 272s, or from running 264/272 or 272/264 combos. All yielded the same results w/ an otherwise stock long block. I believe, considering the FP T28 does not quite flow as much as the evo3 16g, you're probably going to see the same results. Get the 264s of you don't plan on going farther w/ a bigger turbo later. You'll have "more fun" down low. But otherwise, there will be no real loss in overall performance if you just get a good set of 272s. then you ave more cam for other later upgrades. I recommend FP2s. I have the X profile of the fp2s and my 18G absolutely loved them. They hit hard and hold. Really pulled to redline good. Quite a flat power band considering the duration. Idle is great.
 
Alright yall, thank you very much for the responses so far. I've decided that I'm going to go with a set of cams from Forced Performance. I have had good history with them and I've heard good things about their camshafts. So okay, the FP1 or the FP2? I don't plan on going with a bigger turbo than my FP Big28, so I feel like the FP1 set would be pretty adequate. However as I'm sure you know, my turbo size doesn't have the best reputation in high end power. So would I really notice a greater gain in high power if I get the FP2 sets instead of a mild increase throughout the entire band with the FP1? Whew this is confusing me, but oh well. Any help will be appreciated!! Thank you!

Ben :talon:
 
Considering Shapes results. I THINK he was running an otherwize stock 2g head and 2g intake manifold. If absolutely sure about your desires, I feel that you should not bother w/ the 272/fp2s considering his ET did not hardly change. Now, I don't know exactly how his car drove. But, to match your setup better (match all the components to their best flowing rpm range), your current head and intake design and your current turbo is best suited for torquey quick hitting powerband. The fp1s would be best matched to this.

Are you SURE you won't want more later??? If you don't know or it's POSSIBLE that you may want to upgrade later, remember my last post. There were no real ET changes. So if you go bigger cam, you'll still reach the same goal you want w/ now BUT, you will have the bigger cams for a possible change in mind.

Also, you can "make" a cam profile perform the way you want as long as you don't go too extreme. You can get a good "272" regrind done to your stock cams for cheaper and, w/ the difference vs a new cam set, purchase an adjustable cam gear. Adding more overlap by retarding your exhaust cam a modest 3 crank degrees will give you ferocious spool up. A bit of lope. And you'll have likely the same top end w/ a "264" grind. This is due to the fact that overlap will increase the midrange power/VE for a loss in a little VE up top. Just like a 264/FP1 profile. Here, also, you'll have the cams you need IF you get hungry for more after this. This option "forces" higher revving cams to function in proper range for your intake manifold and head runner design and compliments your turbo as this turbo is more of a low/midrange turbo. I wouldn't do this for a cam profile w/ 218-220 @ .05" lift or more, but likely something in the 212-210 range (fp2s) would respond well to this for you.

Buy right, buy once.
 
I agree that most of the time the "while you're in there bug" is a good thing. Especially here. But are you sure you mean 'bind'? I know that an oem spring will wear out quicker, but this will cause valve float/bounce. Not really will they stop accepting the higher lift before the coils bump each other.
 
Has anyone done fp1 intake/ fp2 exhaust..
Would it be similar to 264/272 but better....?
Im starting to reconsider going straight 272s, or straight fp2s, as Ive decied now to not go
no where near as far into modding with my car as I had originally planned...
I am going to stay in the evo3 16g range ( 20psi ish ) with a cyclone manifold
to aid low end torque and i was thinking just getting fp1's so i can get a very
streetable fun torquey sensation vs the fp2s... My friends gsx had fp2s, and while
being faster than my car overall, his didnt feel as push you back into the seat as mines.
So im assuming fp1/fp2 combo would be a good compromise.....
 
Another option would be to spend about the same amount of money and get a nitrous kit. No change in performance when your not using it, and a nice gain when you choose too.

Personally I think you would be further ahead with a ball bearing turbo slightly larger than your big 28, but that will cost more and a set of cams.
 
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