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"Buzzer" test on 1990 gsx

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awzer2

10+ Year Contributor
255
0
Nov 4, 2009
palm desert, California
So i picked up a buzzer at radioshack to check my obd 1 scanner socket.
in a nutshell you basically connect the positive end of the buzzer to the to the live mpi relay pin and the negative or ground wire to the ground pin on the diagnostic socket as described on vfaq.

it worked wonderfully and was very informative.
i got 4 long beeps or pulses then 4 fast ones. resulting in a code 44. or
"bad transistor/coil pack"
then after i removed the problem which was my power transistor i ran the test again and it returned normal.
which sounded good to me.
i got back short pulses which tells me the ecu is fine,and there are not any problems.
I needed to run the test because i had no spark in the coil pack that fires cylinders 2-3. plus my car would just crank until the battery died or until i gave it gas.

I went ahead and ordered an oem replacement for 166$ seriously What the hell. i just went ahead and got it because my car is basically a sitting turd taking up space in the driveway right now not doin' a damn thing!

did i just screw myself over? can the ICM PTU or whatever it's called be repaired?
did i pay way too much ?and how the hell did mine go out?
My car DID get VERY hot and needed to get towed before this happened.
i turned my car on the next day and not a freaking thing was wrong with my car.
it ran fine until i shut it off after running to the store.

:confused:
 
Is the power transistor sitting right next to the block, or have you got it mounted in its place where it was originally mounted?

Heat kills any form of electronic component and possibly in your case that the transistor began to act like a thermal resistor that opens up when it gets too hot and closes to run normally when it cools down.

check this area out. Good luck - DSM
 
Is the power transistor sitting right next to the block, or have you got it mounted in its place where it was originally mounted?

Heat kills any form of electronic component and possibly in your case that the transistor began to act like a thermal resistor that opens up when it gets too hot and closes to run normally when it cools down.

check this area out. Good luck - DSM

yeah this car is 100% quality STOCK.
the car has never been touched by any one else other than the dealership.
so yes it was mounted next to the block under injector #1 where it's supposed to be.

but now it wont work anymore.
you think it just gave out second day driving it?

it was right next to the block probably 1 inch away!
i removed the transistor already it looks ok but thats not what matters,it's the internals of course.
what do i do to test this? which would coils 2-3 be?
http://airtexenginemanagement.com/pdf/pin_outs/6H1067.pdf
check the pin out for the transistor.
 
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The ignition modul its a bit difficult to test with all the cables running to those small pins but the PTU is a ceramic circuit so once broken its not repairable. It can test good when cold and fail when hot. But it is testable. When hot it expands and the internal circuit is fractured, when cold it contracts and are tight, with enough expansion/contraction it fractures beyond working at all. How I tested mine was I mounted it to a accessable location. I tested it cold it passed, I then drove around till it started acting up and tested it again and it failed until it cooled again. Took me a few tries to hook it fast enough as the module got REALLY hot.

But once broken it shouldnt work at all. On mine the pins were corroded and needed to be cleaned, using dielectoid grease in the connector helps keep out the moisture.
 
well it turned out to be the power transistor,im so happy.
160$ well spent.
I cranked the car over and bam started up.
if anyone in the future ever has two cylinders go out randomly try replacing the ptu. thanks for the help guys
 
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