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burning oil!

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neontsi

10+ Year Contributor
30
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May 22, 2011
milaca, Minnesota
Ok, we bought a 1996 eagle talon tsi awd thinking it either needed a head gasket or had a cracked piston. It was only 900$ so we really didnt care. It runs and moves but burns tons of oil. We fpound out the engine still has good compression (160 in all cylinders) so its not either of those problems. I am new to turbos, but not mitsubiti 2.0s. I think the seal in the turbo is bad and it is dumping oil right into the exhaust? Does this sound right? Can i get away with just rebuilding the turbo if so or do I need a new one? And what turbo would you recommend buying if i need one (cheap as possible I'm only 15).

thanks, josh
 
When does it burn oil, all the time or only when gassing it? Have you checked the shaft play on the turbo?

If it is the turbo then usually a simple rebuild is all that's needed unless the fins are fubard or the shaft is bent or beyond repair.
 
Check the turbo for shaft play.

I would recommend a 14b, or 16g.

Any of them will bolt on to the manifold, But you need a J pipe to install it.

If cheap you are looking for, I suggest to get the same turbo so you don't spend more money on parts which the stock turbo will bolt on with no modifications.

Note,. That if you are planning on Upgrade later then I suggest to get a Big 16g EVO.
 
Take the intake tube off from the turbo, hold onto the compressor wheel nut with your fingers. If you have axial play (in and out), it needs a rebuild. If it has sufficient lateral play it needs a rebuild. It should move just a tiny bit laterally but not much.

If the wheels are fine, you could send it out to JusMX141 and have him rebuild your stock t25. That will be the cheapest route to go. A 14b or 16g will be an upgrade but there are other parts needed to bolt them on.
 
Take off the intake (the hose that goes to the turbo inlet), and Try to move the fins of the turbo back and forth and move it to one side and another.

Take the intake tube off from the turbo, hold onto the compressor wheel nut with your fingers. If you have axial play (in and out), it needs a rebuild. If it has sufficient lateral play it needs a rebuild. It should move just a tiny bit laterally but not much.




You just Beat me TWICE. :banghead:
 
So you guys think this is the problem? I thought it was a seal of some kind, and if i buy a turbo will it come with seals?
 
Shaft play indicates worn turbo internals and burning oil (if the turbo) indicates the shaft seals which hold back the oil to prevent it from entering the turbine housing.

Replacing the internals would fix your smoking issue IF it is the turbo causing the issue anyway. Generally what causes the seals to go is from coke build up. Over time the coking builds up under the shaft seals and slowly changes the tolerances to the point of it leaking. There are more extreme cases as well for when a turbo will burn oil too.

The only other thing I can think of would be valve stem seals or worn piston rings. Generally valve stem seals stop leaking when they expand so it would be more of an idle smoking.

If the turbo checks out fine I would consider doing a compression test to help narrow things down.
 
I need the one for just a stock turbo, it has an automatic tranny, I think I read somewhere that it makes a difference? I dont know if it is a T25 can I look at the turbo too see which one I'd need?
 
On a 1g, the auto tranny model had a 13g while the manual tranny had the 14b. The 2g turbo models all have a T25 stock.

T25
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14b/16g (this picture is a 16g but the 14b will look just like it)
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If you have an elbow off the compressor outlet then it's a t25. A j pip will be the 14b/16g if the turbo was upgraded in the past.

J pipe
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New turbos are great but I have 95 TSi with 192,XXX miles with similar problem that ended up being in the head. Broken balance belt lead to jumped some teeth on my timing belt (if you haven't replaced these yet, do it before you do ANYTHING), which bent valves - bad thing.

My car would go through a bit of oil between oil changes, but once all this happened, I bought a new head w/new valve seals, ect. & the oil level didn't drop at all afterwards. I couldn't believe I was loosing that much just from the head. These guys know all & helped me get through several issues I've had w/out even seeing my car to diagnose which is too cool & saved my unemployed ass from being w/out my ride - maybe they can tell you how to check your valve seals w/out pulling your head off.

I recently (differerent story) had my new head decked & the shop tested it for leaks for $70, so it really wasn't that expensive for the work they did & I eliminated my head for the loss of compression I was having at the time anyways.

Good luck...
 
Its got 150k and it doesn't just burn a little oil, it burns a ton! just idleing it makes a huge cloud of smoke, and wont keep itself running without being on the gas a little. My dad was a mechanic so he knows what hes doing but does not know turbos.
 
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We are just going to rebuild the entire engine, send the head in, and rebuild the turbo. Might as well, it has 150k, and this way the problem has to get fixed!
 
I have to sell my Predator to afford this haha. And eventually my tranny will go, so I should probubly start saving for that...
 
Well turns out the turbo is wayy beyond repair, the shaft moves an inch in any direction, I have no idea how it didnt just fly apart! And on a sad note my dad will not let me upgrade, so I have to look for another t-25 ):
 
He wants reliability, and not having to buy more parts to make it fit/work. He also says I already have a racecar and this one doesn't need to go that fast LOL But if it was a better oem one off of a different year, that would fit, he wouldn't care.
 
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