Built 7 bolt??

[blackGSX2g]

Hey guys, well I am in the process of removing and building up the engine in my 2g AWD. I want to just use my 7-bolt block and basically replace everything internal on the engine. I would use a 6-bolt, but I don't trust myself or anyone around here to do the modifications neccessary to install it in a 2g. I also don't want to have to buy a new block, because I'm lacking the funds.

Is it a bad idea to build up a 7-bolt? I haven't had any crankwalking symptoms so far.

 

[clownface]

yeah its pretty much a bad idea and you shouldnt do it. If you have the cash to build your 7 bolt go ahead and make it a 6 bolt swap while your at it cause itll only cost a little tiny bit more then building your 7 bolt...you can get a 6 bolt block for dirt cheap if you look into it aslo ive never done it but it sounds like a 6 bolt swap is really easy.

 

[Enraged78]

Personally, I think that unless you own a '97, crankwalk is overrated. I'm building up my 7-bolt right now. I'll let you know how it goes. There are a few things you can do for peace of mind, like cutting the clutch wire (so you don't have to hold it on startup), using a weaker pressure plate, or looking at things like the MachV MBCAD kit (WHICH THEY CAN'T SEEM TO GET ANYMORE!!!!)

Matt.

 

[blackGSX2g]

yeah its pretty much a bad idea and you shouldnt do it. If you have the cash to build your 7 bolt go ahead and make it a 6 bolt swap while your at it cause itll only cost a little tiny bit more then building your 7 bolt...you can get a 6 bolt block for dirt cheap if you look into it aslo ive never done it but it sounds like a 6 bolt swap is really easy.

Well the hardest part I found with the swap is the machining and filling required to put some of the 1g parts on the 6-bolt. I'm just afraid that it won't seal correctly, or the parts that had to be filled in wouldn't hold. Little things like that worry me. I'm looking for reliablity here. I've only talked to a few people that have done the swap and they always seem to have little problems that pop up here and there.

 

[1fast97gsx]

Well the hardest part I found with the swap is the machining and filling required to put some of the 1g parts on the 6-bolt. I'm just afraid that it won't seal correctly, or the parts that had to be filled in wouldn't hold. Little things like that worry me. I'm looking for reliablity here. I've only talked to a few people that have done the swap and they always seem to have little problems that pop up here and there.

huh? There isn't any "machining" involved. 1 of the motor mount brackets needs to be ground down .. but even a money can't mess that up.

I personally have a built 7 bolt and it's fine. Crankwalk is over rated.

 

[heavyD]

I personally have a built 7 bolt and it's fine. Crankwalk is over rated.

My built 7 bolt has been fine also but I don't have enough hard miles on it yet.

 

[TD05HTalon]

My 95 has it's stock 7 bolt still with 150,000 miles - guess what? NO CRANKWALK WHATSOEVER!!!!! If i hear one more person say the word crankwalk i'm going to tear their head off and shit down their throat unless they have personally owned a car with a 7 bolt motor and it crankwalked.

i am however putting together a 6 bolt engine to swap in since my 7 bolt is getting a little tired - piston rings getting poor compression, burning a little oil etc, and i can't have the downtime to rebuild it.

my 6 bolt buildup is as follows: Eagle rods, Arias pistons, ARP rod, head, and mains, line bored mains, new crank, O ringed block and copper gasket. stock rebuilt 1G head. Why forged internals? because i can afford them and they don't cost any more than stock - a 6 bolt rod is $70 new each - eagle's are $350 for the set. I refuse to use any used parts - only want new stuff.

Do whatever you want with your engine because it is yours and enjoy it.

 

[badgsx]

Just build the 7 bolt and see what happens. There are a few guys on here with built 7 bolts. I think if I ever actually got crankwalk I would do a 6 bolt but other than that I'd just build up the 7 bolt if it needed it.

 

[DNTBLNK]

Crankwalk

 

[DNTBLNK]

If your doing a engine rebuild or swap go with the 6-bolt. It can support much more horsepower and is more reliable. I've spun rod bearings on fully built 7-bolt make just over 500hp. 2 buddies with 1g's and 2600 clutches devoloped crankwalk after a few years with the heavy clutch.

If you want to do it find, a 6-bolt block and crank. Have them checked by a machine shop and everything is direct bolt on. You'll be happier in the years to come.

 

[Ponch]

I had my 7 bolt rebuilt. Had no signs of crankwalk after 90,000 miles. The crank was polished and together it went. Had the balance shafts removed, oil squirters welded shut, clevit bearings, high flowing oil pump and modded the clutch sensor so that the car doesnt require the clutch to be pressed in order to start. After 5k hard and i mean hard driven miles, its still in perfect condition. My car is a 95 by the way.

 

[GSX4LIFE]

Cut the trust bearing cap out of the girdle and set it independently from the other bearing caps. Most crankwalk is because of misaligned trust bearing caps. You could also get that dowel kit for it. Stay away fom very heavy clutches(all cars should anyway) and if its built right, it should be fine.

Dowel kit: http://www.machv.com/conracmbcadk.html

Do some research on this clutch: http://www.machv.com/mavpopucl.html

 

[DNTBLNK]

Sounds good. You know not every car gets it. I ran that 2500 with a full face iron disc and it held really well.

 

[Enraged78]

Cut the trust bearing cap out of the girdle and set it independently from the other bearing caps. Most crankwalk is because of misaligned trust bearing caps. You could also get that dowel kit for it. Stay away fom very heavy clutches(all cars should anyway) and if its built right, it should be fine.

Dowel kit: http://www.machv.com/conracmbcadk.html

Do some research on this clutch: http://www.machv.com/mavpopucl.html

Just an FYI, I have been trying to get the MBCAD kit for the past six weeks now. Out of stock, and they have no idea when it's going to be back in. I'm pretty pissed, as I was counting on this to help strengthen the block. Now, I can't wait any more and have to build the motor without it.

Matt.

 

[blackGSX2g]

Is there anywhere else that sells the kit? I will be upgrading the clutch, but quite frankly because of the increased pressure on the TO bearing and suck, I'm scared of the ACT 2600. I've decided on an ACT flywheel and 2100# clutch. Enough to hold the power, but not enough to destroy things. Clutches are supposed to slip a little bit to absorb the power shock that would otherwise be sent to the tranny, so I think it'll be fine. I've just decided to build up the 7 bolt and go with it.

On that note, I've been shopping around for machine shops in the area, and I don't know exactly what to ask for to see whats good. I've searched and found stuff about a torque plate...is that something that has to be 4g63 specific, or is it standard? I want it bored either .020 or .040 over and have it honed out. I also want the crank balanced and to deck the head. Is that all I ask for, or are there more specifics??

I just don't want to be taken advantage of, and I also want to learn more about details of rebuilding an engine. Its the first DSM engine I've done, and I don't want to spare any expense.

 

[blackGSX2g]

Cut the trust bearing cap out of the girdle and set it independently from the other bearing caps. Most crankwalk is because of misaligned trust bearing caps. You could also get that dowel kit for it. Stay away fom very heavy clutches(all cars should anyway) and if its built right, it should be fine.

Dowel kit: http://www.machv.com/conracmbcadk.html

Do some research on this clutch: http://www.machv.com/mavpopucl.html

The bad part about that clutch is that its a puck style disk...those tend to need higher operating temps to work, and warp the flywheel & pressure plate.

 

[1fast97gsx]

If your doing a engine rebuild or swap go with the 6-bolt. It can support much more horsepower and is more reliable. I've spun rod bearings on fully built 7-bolt make just over 500hp. 2 buddies with 1g's and 2600 clutches devoloped crankwalk after a few years with the heavy clutch.

If you want to do it find, a 6-bolt block and crank. Have them checked by a machine shop and everything is direct bolt on. You'll be happier in the years to come.

A built 1g will not support more power than a built 2g. It is true however that a stock 1g block has made more power than a stock 2g block, but when it comes to building them up you can't just say 1 is better than the other. I happen to think the 2g has an advantage over the 1g if anything because of the girdle design.