Build your own solid front/rear roll stop. 100% 6061

[DSM4LIFE-AWD]

I've tried to start this thread on Talk but it just lead to nothing as usual ... So please guys make an effort to join this thread !

I want to make my own set since I can't leave my daily for 2 weeks. I need some information about how to fab them, dimension, fit ... Would be nice to all share what we know so a DSMer who found this thread would be able to bring his mount to a machine shop and get solid one.

I've tryed contacting badas93tsi but he doesn't reply.

Here's Slippi84 set:

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Here's garage16 work:

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I really like how garage16 made them. This way you press them in and they are centered for sure ! What fit should we do ? 0.002" of fit should be more than enough ?

Here is an other model, after a good talk with my boss (who also is a machiniste) we think a 2 piece like this one would be the best (but full in the interior, just like the protane). Without the sleave for the bolt.

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With a 2 pieces like this one there's no chance that you become offset. That setup would also be easier to press in and will always be in center.

Index of /csm/pictures

Thanks

 

[TSITurbo95]

I like this design, it is unique, and complex. I think it will work out great.

 

[black_gst]

Are you looking for dimensions or someone to make them?

 

[99gst_racer]

Are you looking for dimensions or someone to make them?

Ummmm.....

I want to make my own set since I can't leave my daily for 2 weeks. I need some information about how to fab them, dimension, fit ...

 

[snowborder714]

Would the hollow middle really work well though? I believe everyone who's made them made them solid, but maybe I'm wrong.

 

[black_gst]

Would be nice to all share what we know so a DSMer who found this thread would be able to bring his mount to a machine shop and get solid one.

but then he said this

 

[black_gst]

Here is an other model, after a good talk with my boss (who also is a machiniste) we think a 2 piece like this one would be the best (but full in the interior, just like the protane). Without the sleave for the bolt.

Would the hollow middle really work well though? I believe everyone who's made them made them solid, but maybe I'm wrong.

He kinda hid the part about it being solid

 

[DSM4LIFE-AWD]

Would the hollow middle really work well though? I believe everyone who's made them made them solid, but maybe I'm wrong.

No hollow middle from what I've seen. I think the best idea is just to make the mount in 2 part, just like the protane on the timing belt side.

What I was looking for is the fit. Do you make them with a fit of 0.002" ? Or more ? Do you press them with an hydraulic press or with a hand one ? Maybe hammer them down when it's a 2 pieces ? Does the welding after pressing them is only a 2gen thing for the back mount ? What about the lenght, same lenght as the stock sleave ?

Really happy to see that there is more DSMers who want to talk about them ! DSMTuners FTW !

Edit: Sorry guys I'm in the back of the shop machining so I'll try to reply as fast as I can ... An other question I just have: do you remove the stock sleeve like when you install Protane ?

 

[black_gst]

No hollow middle from what I've seen. I think the best idea is just to make the mount in 2 part, just like the protane on the timing belt side.

What I was looking for is the fit. Do you make them with a fit of 0.002" ? Or more ? Do you press them with an hydraulic press or with a hand one ? Maybe hammer them down when it's a 2 pieces ? Does the welding after pressing them is only a 2gen thing for the back mount ? What about the lenght, same lenght as the stock sleave ?

Really happy to see that there is more DSMers who want to talk about them ! DSMTuners FTW !

Edit: Sorry guys I'm in the back of the shop machining so I'll try to reply as fast as I can ...

From my experience making the different solid and polyurethane parts I make for our cars i have found that you cant use a standard tolerance that is used in the industry because when you press out the stock rubber bushings and sleeve and measure the ID you will find that its not even round this goes for the subframe bushings, differential bushings and I even found this to be true of the front and rear roll stops when i was designing the polyurethane replacements

also I would suggest a slightly offset hole so its not dead center and a slip fit so you can rotate them to make the install easier. then once its installed and rotated you can pound the top of the mount with a hammer if you want so it wont rotate

 

[DSM4LIFE-AWD]

From my experience making the different solid and polyurethane parts I make for our cars i have found that you cant use a standard tolerance that is used in the industry because when you press out the stock rubber bushings and sleeve and measure the ID you will find that its not even round this goes for the subframe bushings, differential bushings and I even found this to be true of the front and rear roll stops when i was designing the polyurethane replacements

also I would suggest a slightly offset hole so its not dead center and a slip fit so you can rotate them to make the install easier. then once its installed and rotated you can pound the top of the mount with a hammer if you want so it wont rotate

Well a slip fit is not enought as I was told, badas93tsi told me that they press them on an hydraulic 12 ton press ...

I had a reply from badas93tsi, he wants something like 125$ shipped for the set in the states ... Not that bad if you can't fab them but I want to fab my kit since I know I can.

 

[black_gst]

Well a slip fit is not enought as I was told, badas93tsi told me that they press them on an hydraulic 12 ton press ...

I had a reply from badas93tsi, he wants something like 125$ shipped for the set in the states ... Not that bad if you can't fab them but I want to fab my kit since I know I can.

is there a reason you want to go solid aluminum vs say polyurethane?

 

[DSM4LIFE-AWD]

See I bought a 91 GRS-4 imported from Japan 2 weeks ago, the car is bone stock with 60,000Km on the clock so 30K miles. My shifter move when I push or let gaz in 4th gear no that much but enough to disturb me. From what I've read these mount are suppose to help with my probleme and the vibration is not that bad. I don't care about the vibration at all, I already have a full set of polyurethane on my 2gen and I wanted to try something different. The last thing is that I'm a machiniste who work in an hydraulic shop own by my father so I have all the tool in stock to make some in aluminium. For something like 20$ of material without any shipping that's an awesome deal for me since I live in Canada and always pay more than you for every items.

I have already made the shifter cable brass bushing and base aluminium bushing, just haven't find the time to install them ...

 

[Blurred Talon]

If you make some roll stops for a 2G don't forget me brother

Keeping my eye on this one.

 

[ed1380]

How did they work out? I bought a chunk of aluminum to practice milling and want to make my own. What OD did you use?

 

[woooop]

Why not get a set from Adam and be done with it, solid mounts suck I dont care if its a street car or a drag car, thay suck. Now on the other hand the urathane replacements that Adam made have actually reduced the vibration and slack in my car and I couldent even imagine going back to solid ever.I have no idea why people want to go to solid but usually thay get fed up with the vibration and go back to rubber or other. Just my 2c

 

[ed1380]

Because I love making things with my owns hands. I've thought about poly but mix, pour, let it dry sounds boring and its more expensive.
As for vibrations- I'm only making the rollstops solid. A solid trans mount makes the most vibration. Mine is staying rubber.

I'm asking for OD so I don't have to use trial and error to find it

 

[3kgt2nv]

here is the set of solids i made. Made a jig and tig welded them.

drivers side motor mount

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tranny mount

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rock solid with only 2 solids in

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front mount

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dont have a close up of the rear but for a first set came out pretty good. i made another set that was alot better finish wise

only problem with alum like that is over time it can open up the holes for the bolts to go thru. I would suggest some kind of steel dowel to protect the aluminum from being deformed.

 

[Eeeeky]

here is the set of solids i made. Made a jig and tig welded them.

drivers side motor mount

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tranny mount

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rock solid with only 2 solids in

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front mount

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dont have a close up of the rear but for a first set came out pretty good. i made another set that was alot better finish wise

only problem with alum like that is over time it can open up the holes for the bolts to go thru. I would suggest some kind of steel dowel to protect the aluminum from being deformed.

Looks good, i like that they are simple, and re-makeable (??) if something should happen. However, those arent tig welds. Wire feed isnt tig man

 

[3kgt2nv]

Looks good, i like that they are simple, and re-makeable (??) if something should happen. However, those arent tig welds. Wire feed isnt tig man

they were spot welded with a mig and then i tig'ed them. i decided i wanted a stronger seam so i did a second pass and i wasnt concerned with a stack of dimes style weld.

i have a miller diversion 165 tig machine.

i also only had a heavier gauge filler rod at the time

 

[dsmornothing]

your best bet will be knocking out your rubber mounts and sleeves. Measure from that. Make them about .005 over size and freeze them. they should slip right it and be nice and tight after they swell back up.

 

[black_gst]

Why not get a set from Adam and be done with it, solid mounts suck I dont care if its a street car or a drag car, thay suck. Now on the other hand the urathane replacements that Adam made have actually reduced the vibration and slack in my car and I couldent even imagine going back to solid ever.I have no idea why people want to go to solid but usually thay get fed up with the vibration and go back to rubber or other. Just my 2c

^ my biggest promoter Thanks Andy

Because I love making things with my owns hands. I've thought about poly but mix, pour, let it dry sounds boring and its more expensive.
As for vibrations- I'm only making the rollstops solid. A solid trans mount makes the most vibration. Mine is staying rubber.

I'm asking for OD so I don't have to use trial and error to find it

like Andy said my solid polyurethane mounts actually make you feel less vibrations over the stock roll stops or solid aluminum, dont ask me how, but every single person running them has said the same thing. including people coming from solid mounts

i understand about your wanting to make your own parts more power to you. i can give you the OD on the front mount if you want but the rear you will need to measure. each side of that rear one is a different OD.

PM me if you need any info

 

[ed1380]

I machined it to 69.4mm and had to sand some off for it to fit. It was a tight fit.
Worst case I press them out and get prothane mounts

 

[DSM4LIFE-AWD]

This is for a 1gen AWD. The poly come from an ESI, but after some search protane offer the same bushing FWD or AWD ...

Ok it's finally time to build my solid mount ... I already installed the timing and tranny one in poly since they came with a free shell. I heard that those are the one that give the most vibration so I decided to go with the poly for those one ...

Yesterday I took off the front roll stop and realize something was wrong. The hole is not centered on my stock mount. The hole is offset a good 1/4" but on the polly one it's right on the center ? I was planning of using the poly one as an exemple to build a 6061 but it looks like I can't ... It's not like the engine is jacked, I tryed to lift or lower it and the jack is just there for safety since the engine didn't move at all when I removed the mount.

The other strange thing is that once the mount is in place the bolt only toutch the buttom of the sleeve, like if the hole could be a bit more offset !?

Is this normal or is it just because my stock mount is old ? It still look pretty stiff to me ?

Help please !

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Come on guys I want to build them today and need your opinions

 

[black_gst]

Thats a big complaint from the 1G guys that i have heard, i offset the center hole on the poly ones i make for a 2g approx 1/4"

but if i was you i would press in the aluminum one then installing it and then mark the center through the brackets

 

[ed1380]

My 2g front was offset but I made the 6061 mounts centered. It was harder to get it to line up, but that's about it.