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broke off one of the bolts that holds on the fuel rail into the head

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ilikespeeding

15+ Year Contributor
839
4
Nov 13, 2005
Greenville, North Carolina
The previous owner broke off one of the bolts that holds on the fuel rail into the head. Ofcourse, it's broken off evenly with the head, so I have to go buy ez-outs now. Luckly, it's not that much of a pain in the ass to get to. The broken bolt is the one on the drivers side. Damn Mitsubishi for using low grade bolts. Anyways, does anyone know where I can find higher grade bolts to replace these?
 
Just get oe. It's made to last 100k miles i'm sure it will set you for a while.

Please label your thread too, you might get nailed for it if you're not careful. Just a helpful hint.

Edit: I doubt it's mitsu's bolts. Some things just tend to break if not maintained or ever removed, or removed improperly. I've had my rail off half a dozen times and i've NEVER had an issue with anything breaking.
 
Just get oe. It's made to last 100k miles i'm sure it will set you for a while.

Please label your thread too, you might get nailed for it if you're not careful. Just a helpful hint.

Edit: I doubt it's mitsu's bolts. Some things just tend to break if not maintained or ever removed, or removed improperly. I've had my rail off half a dozen times and i've NEVER had an issue with anything breaking.

I labeled the thread. It happened to be obscene as per DSMTuner standards. I forgot about that.

Im pretty sure it is OEM Mitsub, I also have a 1G (in addition the the talon Im talking about), which I checked to see if it had the same bolts, and it did. I couldnt believe that mitsub decided that 3 4-grade bolts are all that prevent me from running lean and buying a new motor.
 
Those bolts are going into a aluminum head. The head should strip out long before the bolt breaks.

Go to your hardware store or if you have a Fastenal near by they will have them.
 
I've had one of those bolts break off two. Actually, I was given a head that had 2 of the fuel rail bolts broken. One, I was able to extract myself with an easy out. The out I couldn't get out. I took it to my local shop, and he was able to remove it for me.
 
One trick I learned from an old machinist. Take a nut, that has the same ID (inner diameter) as the bolts OD and weld the nut to the bolt. Not only does it turn it into an extractable "bolt", the heat from welding expands and contrast the bolt, causing it to come out much easier. Works slicker than snot LOL.
 
I hate to say this, but I might try my luck with two. I tightened the other two, and I noticed that there was hardly any free play at the end of the rail, so I might leave it until I upgrade injectors. At that time, Ill see if ARP has something for me.
 
Being an ex honda tech, Im used to 10 grade bolts everywhere. I dont really like seeing 4 grade or 7 grade bolts on things that are important.
 
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