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What the video doesn’t show is the engine randomly bouncing every few seconds. I figure it’s due to the misfires. But otherwise it sounds like it’s running fine. Anyway, I just got my new TPS and I noticed it came with an O-ring and a paper gasket. My old sensor was missing the paper gasket. So maybe that’s what the problem is... I’ll have to wait till the morning to see though because my battery is dead and I’ll have to jump the car. If this doesn’t work I’m gonna start testing the wiring for the cam and crank sensors for any kind of loss of signal
Is your battery toast? A dying battery can cause more problems than you realize. Changing my battery was like a whole new world for the car.
No the battery is only about 3 months old. I didn’t close my door all the way so my light stayed on the whole night. But after installing my new TPS I started the car and it idled hella rough and surged like crazy. After I disconnected and reconnected the wires it mellowed out but I would stay on for a minute then stall. So I’m pretty sure the new sensor I got is bad. I’ve had the worst luck with this car
That is weird. What brand sensor is that?
Standard ignition. My problem might be that I’m buying all my sensors online. I’m gonna swap out the gaskets in the new sensor with my old sensor and put my old sensor back in and check it. But I think I’ll probably get a new cam sensor from O’Reillys or something and see if I might’ve bought a bad cam sensor too
My alternator pushes between 13.7-14.05 volts.
I checked the cat a few months ago just before I put the cams in. I was running a test pipe and put the cat back on when I changed my muffler
It’s a manual
I wasn’t able to mess with it much due to the holidays. But I ended up buying another tps sensor and another cam sensor just in case one of them was a dud and I just replaced my battery again today because it went bad from all the sitting it’s done. I’m getting the same problems. But I’m convinced it’s something electrical because the problem is too inconsistent to be mechanical. If the timing was off or something was wrong with the cams it would be a consistent issue. I’m gonna replace my spark plug wires again just because some ngk wires online and when I got them I saw glue at both ends of all of them which has bugged me since I got them. I’m wondering if they might not be legit or something. If the spark plug wires don’t work I’ll probably just have to save up and have a shop look at it
So I found something online about people that get the P0300 code after a cam swap and people that have stalling issues after a cam swap. It seem that with the aftermarket cams they can sometimes freak the computer into thinking something is wrong so they kick the misfire codes and depending on the cams you buy it can mess with the stall speed when slowing down. So it says to have the engine code disabled in the computer and to change the stall speed based on whatever specs the cams are. I just don’t know if you can do that with the stock computer. It seems like a simple task and wouldn’t require a full tune but dsm’s just have to be difficult. I did find a forum post last night that someone said the 98-99 420a can be reprogrammed with a Chrysler machine though. I’m hoping it can be that simple instead of paying $500 for a new computer just to gain like 20hp
Good luck finding one of those. I've heard the backstory about that, and the info about it is supposed to be private. And there are only a couple of them known in existence. See what you can do, but and aftermarket tune is the best way to go.
That would be a bigger waste of time. He already stated that the car ran fine and did not have this code before the cams. The name of this thread is asking why the new cams caused him to throw a code.
. So you can keep picking at straws or see how it reacts when its back to stock. And If the car ran fine before the cams then that's prolly a big clue as to what the issue is. See how it runs on stock cams. If it solved your issue then great and dont run em till you can properly tune it. You've ruled out everything else what do you have to lose at this point. It's not gona cost you anything like these sensors and every other part you already changed.
The issue isn’t whether I could tune it or not. The issue is not knowing what the issue necessarily was. If something was bad then it wouldn’t make sense to try to tune it. But now I’m just trying to see if I can get a simple fix by getting into my ecu and making my engine code inactive or if I absolutely have to by an aftermarket ecu. So I’m gonna get some adjustable cam gears and try to get a simple tune done if possible before putting all that money into an ecu when I’m not building my car for any crazy gains or anythingWelp nothing else clearly worked
