The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Brian Crower 280's

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

The BC 280s are pretty big cams, comparable to the 288 Crowers and FP3x grinds, which are larger than the FP4s. Question is, how do the three big cams compare to each other on turbos that flow at least 65lbs/min?
 
would bc cams go good with a t3 super 60 or they for bigger turbos?

any cams are better than stocks.... Yes they would be great with them but only if you were revving higher in the rpms say 8k+ if not then I'd stick with a 264/264, 264/272, or a 272/272 combo
 
TurboRacerGSX said:
would bc cams go good with a t3 super 60 or they for bigger turbos?

I will let you know how the 50 trim lasts to 8500rpms. The problem is with a smaller turbo that the motor will start to outflow the turbo. A 16G would get over run by these cams in the upper range. Like said, I will let you know if my 50 trim can keep up. I think it will be able to hold 23psi untill redline...

my98GST said:
so they're technically a little more cam than the HKS's, but they idle better than the HKS? Damn I love the hks lopey idle.. but for the price I think i might as well go with the BCs'... Happy New Years everyoen!!! Cause its been happy for me

I have not heard that they idle better other then 1 vendor made the comment that they are engineered to idle well. I am pretty sure they are going to be lopey. Go with the BC's dude, I think you will be happy. Brian is also very helpful, he even told me if the 280's were to much for me, I could send them back and he would give me 272's. I wont send them back, but it is nice to know.
 
In a few weeks I'll let you guys know how my Red flows with these fellers :D
 
We love Brians 280* cams. We are currently running all of his products in the RWD and we are now over the 1000WHP mark, and have had no issues with the cams at all! We picked up 37whp going from HKS 272s to BC 280s. Nothing but the cams changed and that was our whp increase. We are running a GT45 at over 55lbs of boost now, but even with smaller turbos like a t67 sized turbo we have been seeing crazy increases with brians 280s. Also the power we picked up was with just dropping them in with non adjustable cam gears. With more fine tuning we picked up a couple more hp, but nothing to really speak of.

You really can't go wrong with these cams, especially for the price!
 
Would you see a real benefit with the 280s on a 65 lb/min turbo like an SCM61? Worth the switch over FP2s? A friend of mine is contemplating throwing a set of dual valve springs in his car in the next few months and he could trade up to the 280's for not much more than he could sell his 101200s for.
 
With the 272/272 combo do you need to upgrade any head internals, or will stock be sufficient? Do you have to get adjustable cam gears with the 272/272 crowers or can they just be dropped in? Anyone just drop them, not dial them in, and have any issues? I am on the fence between the Crwoer and DKS. The crowers have a smoother idle, but the DKS's are said to NOT have to be dialed in.

About DKS:
"A SPECIAL NOTE ABOUT OUR CAMS: There has been some smack talk within forums and whatnot that these cams are "spray welded" or exhibit some other cheap crap done to them during the regrind process. These cams are NOT welded on and are just as hard on the outside as they are on the inside. The grinding process does not detract from its surface hardness. Period.

In fact, cams that have already been run for years and years (such as in regrinds), have proven themselves in longevity whereas the brand new stuff, might have manufacturing flaws within the casting or billet that will certainly rear its ugly head during usage.

EACH stick grinded is manually checked for runout as well. If the cam's runout is over .0015", then we reject it. These tight tolerances are an example of the quality control that is exercised with our cams. You will not be getting bent cam sticks from over here so rest easy.

Bottomline...we want you to get better educated on our product so that you don't have to take advice from all the Waldo's out there that have never used OUR cams and/or don't fully understand how we create OUR cams. Be your own brain...listen to the source.

We're so confident in our cams, that we're offering you a full ONE YEAR WARRANTY with them. If you see any pitting of the lobes, breakage, or fracturing of our cams within a year of purchase date, we'll replace that defective component at no charge!

Crazy stuff considering that we're talking about a race part here. Who else would do that?

This warranty excludes cam journal damage as we have no control over what might or might not be floating around in your oil system and/or your cam tower alignment.

Very affordably priced...bolt-in power...as durable as stock...warranted for a full year!"


Also:
"Our Number 1 question that is pitched to us about these cams, "Can I install these straight up?"

Answer: Although HKS cams do degree in friendly, they are not always "deadnuts" and zeroed right out of their boxes to YOUR motor. EVERY motor we have built needed some amount of degreeing to make PERFECT phase between crank and cams. Lots of factors involved here folks such as the amount of material shaved off the head, headgasket thickness, block deck height to the crank centerline, cam profile production tolerances, and variances in valvetrain geometry all affect phasing. Remember, we're talking about a vast majority of the parts within a motor are cast pieces. Nothing is perfect. Nothing is consistent.

Now, having good consistency in cam specs from one cam to the next is most important and HKS is always on their game. Crower's cams were a close second in grind tolerance...Web's was at the bottom of the barrel. What a surprise.

Perhaps you're in individual who could care less about "zero degrees", doesn't want to screw around with the egg-head science, and just wants to bolt-on, go race, and be nasty? We can relate to your enthusiasm so being as it may, with all things considered, and with the tight tolerances that HKS cams possess...

YES, YOU CAN INSTALL THESE STRAIGHT UP. These cams follow the same profile as HKS cams along with having the same exercised quality control in each "stick". Each cam cut is exactly like the last. In other words, if HKS camshafts have it, so do these."

If anyone is interested in ordering either of these cams:
Crower:
http://www.briancrower.com/makes/mitsubishi/4g63.shtml

DKS:
http://www.ffwdconnection.com/cams.shtml
 
I run the DKS 272/272 cams in my car. I bought them when they first were released, I only really had a chance to use them with the 14b turbo...and it just outflowed that turbo like no tomorrow. I would spike 22psi...and by redline hold 14-15psi...the VE of the motor must of increased enough, b/c on the stockers it was holding 22psi to redline. I will be running these cams with my E316G turbo as well on a tial 38mm external gate and see how she does. Il post back with results. And O yea, if you have prothanes, these things idle hard as Fcuk.
 
So who installed this already? let's get an airflow map or at least an idle clip!

Waiting on my head to come back from the machine shop, should be done next Wend. I will install right away of coarse!!!!:rocks: After I install, log, retune I will run to the boards and post results. I am really exited! My comparison wont be to stock though as I am switching from Web Street grind.


And O yea, if you have prothanes, these things idle hard as Fcuk.

I removed my front and rear prothanes while my head is off. They Vibrate tooooooooooooo muuucccchhhh! I left the two side ones in. There are people on the ORLDSM forum that have had lots of things vibrate loose from prothanes, even a oil filter! There are 9, 10 and 11 second cars here in ORL. running stock mounts.
 
Hey Frank its steve with the blue laser, I met you a couple of times at OSW, remember the time when the battery went dead when you was waiting in line to stage LOL sh!t happens. Now that you mentioned it my oil filter housing was loose a couple of days ago, I had to retighten the nut on the filter housing, it backed off, my guess from the prothanes. Hey frank you removed the tranny prothane mount and put a stock one? Or run none at all? Im thinking about removing the rear one, just to keep things under control.
 
Hey Frank its steve with the blue laser, I met you a couple of times at OSW, remember the time when the battery went dead when you was waiting in line to stage LOL sh!t happens. Now that you mentioned it my oil filter housing was loose a couple of days ago, I had to retighten the nut on the filter housing, it backed off, my guess from the prothanes. Hey frank you removed the tranny prothane mount and put a stock one? Or run none at all? Im thinking about removing the rear one, just to keep things under control.

Yha, that sucked, I bought a new battery a couple says later. I think removing the rear prothane will make the biggest difference, I just removed the rear and the front trans to be sure it was nice and smooth... In my car they are just inserts, so I just removed those and the stock mounts were still in tact. If you just remove the rear one it will help the most. The front one is easier to get at later if you want to pull it also.
 
I got my head back, I will have sound clips and performance results on Sunday after I go to the track... Here is some pics of the valve train installed:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


And just because it looks so sexy... look at those o-rings. This biotch will seal:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I wanna buy BC´s cams too..and need some advise.
building 400+AWHP street car..
Doesn´t matter on idle..like bumpy.:D

Don´t know which ones to run..272 or 280..I know if will choose 272 can´t do BAD..but I like to get more power from 280´s

where are shift points for those?
BC272...8k rpms ?
BC280.. 8.5 or more?

How about get BC280and shift at like 8000rpms?

Does anone know in which rpms are BC280Most powerfull..272 are like 7500rpms..wanna compare it

BTW BC´s springs + ret are fine for both types 272 and 280??:confused:
Do I need to get SS valves to rev to 8.5k???

next importen thing my tranny isn´t 100% Okay..

Thanks for any point..
Venca
 
Just to let you guys know... I got the BC 280's in and am LOVING them. They idle bumpy, but they are not that bad. I personally love the sound, they are alot more smooth at 1000, I have mine at 800 and am seeing about 6-8 on the vac gauge. In regards to performance, I am impressed! I had web street grind cams before and was flowing about 49lbs/min. on 24-25 lbs of boost. Now I am seeing 48.7lbs/min airflow a 20 lbs of boost! On a 2.0!!!! These thing pull hard to , I am shifting at 8500 right now because I have a fairly stock (fresh rebuild) bottom end. On DSMLink the power does not drop off, they just keep making power:rocks:!

Anyone wondering about BC280s, I say:thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

My digi cam does not have a mic. I am going to try and get a sound clip with my neighbors camera tomorrow for everyone. MMM, lovin it.
 
cool, I was waiting to see how these were going to act at idle, I have a set on the way from sbr. I can't wait.
 
I should have my head together within a week. You guys are slackin :)
 
I am looking to shift at about 8000rpm with my new setup. Would it be worth the extra expense to get the 280's instead of the 272's? By extra expense I mean the springs and retainers. So my biggest question is, if I am shifting at 8000rpms will the 280's make a big difference in power over the 272's?
thanks for the help
 
I am looking to shift at about 8000rpm with my new setup. Would it be worth the extra expense to get the 280's instead of the 272's? By extra expense I mean the springs and retainers. So my biggest question is, if I am shifting at 8000rpms will the 280's make a big difference in power over the 272's?
thanks for the help

i would say go with 272's bud. If you plan on shifting over 8000 then go 280's but realistically the 272 will better suit your needs and offer a mid range that will be a blast. :rocks:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top