Breaking in built motor?

[Boosted98RS]

Well I just got my car running...finally and wanted to know the best way to break it in. It has new rings, bearings, bored, honed, and a few other things. It has Eagle Rods and Wiesco pistons. So I just started it and put a cheap oil filter and oil in it and was going to let it run for about 20 mins and then change it. Then should I put good oil in it to break it in and change it in like 500 miles or so and change it again? What is the best way for the motor?

 

[Carlz0r]

This article should help tremendously:
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

[gst96spyderman]

You should get a lot of replys on this one. The debate on when to change oil and break in period is highly debateable. I'd go the conservative way. Change oil after first 100 miles of granny style driving. then 500 then synthetic.

No point in putting good oil in it until YOU consider break in period to be complete. waste of money. They do make a break in oil... saw it in one of the posts... forget name... Good luck. Show us some pics.

 

[Boosted98RS]

So the 2nd post says break it in hard? So drive it like I stole it?

 

[SlowChild3]

No. Drive it like the rev percentages say.

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[SmoochDarling]

I second the drive it like you stole it approach. Just rebuilt my 4g63 and it has amazing compression results. My brother, favouring the granny approach has more than 5 psi across the board LESS on his engine which was also recently rebuilt.

2 bone stock rebuilds.
2 different break-in methods
2 sets of compression results- 1 good, 1 not so good.

Drive it like you stole it QUICK within the first 20 miles. Change the oil right after.

 

[tork]

There are so many differing opinions on the "best" method of breaking an engine in. You need to choose the best method that you feel is suitable for your build. If you want to set the rings immediately,and are going to use boost,make sure that your a/f's ok,and your not running too rich or lean. I personally used no boost for the first 200 miles,moved the heat around alot, upshifting straight to an engine brake,and complete cool downs. The rings like to see alot of positive pressure as well as vacuum. My oil intervals were 150,300,500,1000. Some people baby for their break in while others drive it like they stole it.

 

[asrdave]

straight to the dyno!!!

 

[Rollinukwn]

Well i just wanna say on my motors this is how i do it .
Not on a dsm but hey this works for me ...



(fresh rebuild ) I start the car up let it idle for about 20 mins or so shut it off let it cool for about 30 mins 1hr then i hit the highway i run from 2000-3500 TOPS never sitting at any rpm for to long. come back in change the oil.On my break in motors i use cheap oil from advance auto parts or autozone ... since i will be changing it in 50 miles anyways

I put about 500 miles then i just drive it like i would smash the gas here and there.

On my regal it was a little harder to do since PITA to drive on the streets i would idle it for about 45 mins let it cool down then jump on the highway and try to say under 4000 rpms ... (55mph )...

Ive never had 1 problem whats so ever on a rebuild as far as rod/mains/cam bearings EVER! My oil choice after the 1st oil change is Mobil 1 and half quart of lucas oil treat ment.

My small block chevy has seen tons of rpms for that style of motor 8200 rpm shifts when i would pull it apart to check everything they bearings would still have white lithium grease on them after a 3 months of weekend beating on it.

I think the main thing is letting the rings seat i did have a problem with a carb washing out 2 sets of rings in 1 month before.

i know theres people who say lucas is a joke but ive ripped a oil pan off my car and still drove 17 miles with ZERO oil PSI and the motor still runs to this day in a daily drive (3800 II 3.8-v6). Lucas dose save bearings hands down ive put it in everything from Frightliner simi rig down to the lawn mower..

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[Indian]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...tor-break-merged-10-6-a.html?highlight=merged

 

[Boosted98RS]

You should get a lot of replys on this one. The debate on when to change oil and break in period is highly debateable. I'd go the conservative way. Change oil after first 100 miles of granny style driving. then 500 then synthetic.

No point in putting good oil in it until YOU consider break in period to be complete. waste of money. They do make a break in oil... saw it in one of the posts... forget name... Good luck. Show us some pics.

Car is dirty as can be but here is what it looks like. Take in mind it's been sitting since March, .

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[spawn87]

This article should help tremendously:
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

after reading this article the hard break in made scene to me. however if you are running new clutch then its a little more complicated like it was for me... i reved it normally without boost 1st and 2nd gear till i got to the road then on 3rd did a pull to 6k with out boosting just putting load which is the main concern so your rings get broken in to the groves accordingly. did my fist 20 miles with abt 6 pulls on 3rd gear like that and combine with normal driving. this worked for me but its different strokes for different folks.

You should get a lot of replys on this one. The debate on when to change oil and break in period is highly debateable. I'd go the conservative way. Change oil after first 100 miles of granny style driving. then 500 then synthetic.

No point in putting good oil in it until YOU consider break in period to be complete. waste of money. They do make a break in oil... saw it in one of the posts... forget name... Good luck. Show us some pics.

wont argue if the granny approach is bad or good but gst96spyderman is right dont waste your money on synthetic oils use regular cheap oil you need the friction for the break in. synthetic just makes it to slippery and hard to grove in. so for at LEAST first 500 miles regular cheap oil will do it just fine.

straight to the dyno!!!

if you dont have to break in anything else besides just the engine then yes even FFTECH will tell you strait to dyno is how they break in their motors and these guys are reputable in the bay and west coast.

 

[Boomdeeze]

I let took it easy on mine for the first 50 miles then changed the oil. After the first oil change I drove it how it like I would any other turbo car, I beat the crap out of it. Only hit 7500 a few times but other than that I let it feel the boost to around 6500 and then it suck in vacuum.

 

[TSIBOB]

drive it like your gonna drive if it was already broke in

 

[rx7ttlm]

Pull timing, if your running the same engine setup. If you have new stuff try to run your known fuel map/ injectors etc so you don't wash down the cylinders. If your fuel is to rich or to lean fix immediately. But the moderate spanking method is the best. Oil wise use 10-40 conventional oil, fire it up warm up, leak check, drive her a couple miles. Then pull her in leak check again change oil, then run her for 500 miles at varying rpm and load, AVOID highway cruising since it does nothing for break in. Its not just miles to click down, its about loading the engine properly and breaking in the rings. Food for thought, the head is best right after a rebuild and deteriorates, the shortblock is crap at first, then gets better when the rings seat and then eventually the rings wear out. So there is a happy place after breakin for the shortblock. After the 2nd oil change (500miles) change the oil once more and put in THE GOOD 10-40 or 20-50. Mobil 10-30etc = the devil unlike what everyone thinks. Use something with high zinc / phosphorus like mobil 10-40 racing (####ing expensive at $10/ qt if you can find it), Brad pen's 20-50, or Valvoline Racing VR1/ NLS oils. I think Redlines oils should be good still. I haven't checked them out lately but they are on the top of my list from the last tests we did. Your engine will thank you. One of my buddies did the nancy style breakin, I did my breakin. with the same compression ratio I had 10 points more than him with 5k more miles.