brakes and turbo....help

[remofzero]

hey everyone, i have a 1990 eclipse gs fwd turbo 5 speed. recently i lost all pressure in my brake pedal- but im not loosing any fluid. so today i replaced my front rotors and pads and when i went to do my rear i realized i have ceized calipers in the rear so im replacing them, but that dont explain my pedal. i can stop with the brakes- i have that last little bit of pressure where it locks the drivers side tire up only and i dont get it. im not loosing fluid only no pedal pressure. would that be the master cylinder? i know when the brake booster goes bad it gives you the extra hard stiff pedal with no brakes- this is reverse i have no pedal but very minimal brakes. ive bled the system 4x and still nothing? what would that be?

secondly- i have a stock turbo on my car- its what ever came on the 90 eclipse gs turbo, and i think its shot- pretty sure it is becasue it dont spool but for a second then nothing, but i have a question- my dad has his chevy truck it has a 6.5 liter turbo deisel in it, he recently blew it up but the turbo is still good, could i use that on my car? i mean my buddy looked at me and told me i had a better chance at seeing my car do 5 second quarters then using that turbo and if i had got it to work that he wouldnt ride with me becasue that turbo is so much bigger then my turbo that i would probably throw all 4 pistons thru my hood......so whats my chance on using that? im curious because it would save me good money that i dont have ya know? thanks guys!!!

 

[LiquidX]

hey everyone, i have a 1990 eclipse gs fwd turbo 5 speed. recently i lost all pressure in my brake pedal- but im not loosing any fluid. so today i replaced my front rotors and pads and when i went to do my rear i realized i have ceized calipers in the rear so im replacing them, but that dont explain my pedal. i can stop with the brakes- i have that last little bit of pressure where it locks the drivers side tire up only and i dont get it. im not loosing fluid only no pedal pressure. would that be the master cylinder? i know when the brake booster goes bad it gives you the extra hard stiff pedal with no brakes- this is reverse i have no pedal but very minimal brakes. ive bled the system 4x and still nothing? what would that be?

secondly- i have a stock turbo on my car- its what ever came on the 90 eclipse gs turbo, and i think its shot- pretty sure it is becasue it dont spool but for a second then nothing, but i have a question- my dad has his chevy truck it has a 6.5 liter turbo deisel in it, he recently blew it up but the turbo is still good, could i use that on my car? i mean my buddy looked at me and told me i had a better chance at seeing my car do 5 second quarters then using that turbo and if i had got it to work that he wouldnt ride with me becasue that turbo is so much bigger then my turbo that i would probably throw all 4 pistons thru my hood......so whats my chance on using that? im curious because it would save me good money that i dont have ya know? thanks guys!!!

You are POSITIVE that there aren't any leaks at the calipers, slave and master cylinders right? No staining behind the brake pedal? Does your fluid seem to lower at all? Each time you bleed, did you push any air out?

Did you check for shaft play or any damage to the fins and wheel? Have you done a boost leak test. Quite possible you have a lot of leaks preventing boost. The turbo you have is a 14B by the way.

You COULD use the turbo off your dads chevy. You would need an exhaust manifold that mates up to the head and the inlet on the turbo, an o2 housing along with a custom downpipe. You would then need to reroute your intercooler piping to fit. You have MUCH more to do before you could even put that on. Your friend is wrong about blowing up your car if it's modded properly before hand.

Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners

 

[remofzero]

i figured as much about the turbo- yes i have alot to do before i can worry about the turbo, my brakes being first hand and then running issues secondly then the turbo.

when i cracked the bleeders on the rear calipers- i get nothing no air no fluid no matter how hard or fast or many times my bro pumped the brakes. but then when we took the lines out of the calipers and i hit the brakes my bro got hit in the face with fluid full force from it, so there is fluid in the lines but none was coming out the caliper bleeder- plus they were seized 100% so im puttin new on

as far as fluid i dont leak any and thats the thing that gets me. i had great brakes for about 3 weeks after i bought this car- then poof no more pedal no loss of fluid and only the driver front tire had brakes ( the bottom of the pedal) and thats the issue now. the only bleeder i cant get open is the driver front and mysteriously thats the only one that works- funny i thought as well as ironic.

i have some running issues but ill post another thread about those later i need help on...

and as far as the turbo- how do i check the boost leak? there's a good possibility of a leak ive never checked the shaft- not 100% sure how hard it is to get to, so i havent tore it down- being the car is my daily driver. if the turbo is shot will that give me bad gas milage? ### im getting like 13 mpg in this car now, sickening because my dad gets 19-22 in his 1 ton dualy with a 6.5 turbo deisel with 4 door car cabinet behind the box and a 8 1/2 foot dump box behind that- so yea. and how much you think it would cost me to put that turbo on and would it be worth it? like is it better then mine? would it be cheaper to get another stock used one? i just dont know what direction to go
thanks again
brian

 

[LiquidX]

i figured as much about the turbo- yes i have alot to do before i can worry about the turbo, my brakes being first hand and then running issues secondly then the turbo.

when i cracked the bleeders on the rear calipers- i get nothing no air no fluid no matter how hard or fast or many times my bro pumped the brakes. but then when we took the lines out of the calipers and i hit the brakes my bro got hit in the face with fluid full force from it, so there is fluid in the lines but none was coming out the caliper bleeder- plus they were seized 100% so im puttin new on

as far as fluid i dont leak any and thats the thing that gets me. i had great brakes for about 3 weeks after i bought this car- then poof no more pedal no loss of fluid and only the driver front tire had brakes ( the bottom of the pedal) and thats the issue now. the only bleeder i cant get open is the driver front and mysteriously thats the only one that works- funny i thought as well as ironic.

i have some running issues but ill post another thread about those later i need help on...

and as far as the turbo- how do i check the boost leak? there's a good possibility of a leak ive never checked the shaft- not 100% sure how hard it is to get to, so i havent tore it down- being the car is my daily driver. if the turbo is shot will that give me bad gas milage? ### im getting like 13 mpg in this car now, sickening because my dad gets 19-22 in his 1 ton dualy with a 6.5 turbo deisel with 4 door car cabinet behind the box and a 8 1/2 foot dump box behind that- so yea. and how much you think it would cost me to put that turbo on and would it be worth it? like is it better then mine? would it be cheaper to get another stock used one? i just dont know what direction to go
thanks again
brian

You'll need to have someone else chime in on the brakes. Maybe it's just the calipers are bad...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...se-troubleshoot-boost-leak-tester-merged.html

VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions

Shaft play is when the turbo's shaft is able to move much more than the desired amount. To test, take off the intake pipe so you can access the compressor wheel on the turbo. Check to see how much if moves from side-side up-down. You don't want it to touch the housing. Next check for in-out play. That's bad and will most likely require a rebuild. Are you blowing any smoke or the tail?

To put on his turbo would cost a good bit of money and you don't have any requirements to even attempt to put it on. It could be a simple t3 or t4 flange or something completly different. Get the numbers off of the turbo and then people can start to identify it. You would need injectors, upgraded intercooler, fuel management, fuel pump and an AFPR for basics to put it on, not including the hot parts needed.

IF you turbo is shot, 14b's can be found for cheap and are great turbos and so are the 16g family. Go build or buy a boost leak tester as it sounds like you just have a lot of boost leaks. I know Mitsubishi Turbo Performance Parts from Mach V Motorsports sells them and I think Slowboy Racing, Inc. and Welcome To Extreme PSI do also (not 100% positve about EPSI though)

 

[93ETGOCART]

sounds to me like you must have a leak somewhere fluid may not be escaping but it sounds like air is getting in

 

[remofzero]

how would i go about making a boost leak tester?