robertbaxley03
Next it was time to build the motor.
I started with a block that had been decked and bored .020 over to accept the Weisco 1400 HD pistons.
It was then cleaned and painted. I used Painters Tape to tape the block off. Please do not use duct tape as it will be a pain to clean.
I followed this thread to final wash the block.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/362154-how-final-wash-engine-block.html
Once washed I reinstalled my balance shaft bearings 180* from the oiling holes using the rent a tool bearing race installer from autozone.
Next I made sure all the main journals where clean. I installed the bearings with a oil slot in the block and the ones without into the caps.
Next the main studs where lubed with ARP moly lube and hand tightened into the block. The crank was set into place with the bearings dry.
All main journal clearances where checked using plastigauge green. All journals where within factory spec.
The crank was then rotated 90* and checked again. All where within spec.
Once done the crank was removed. I once again made sure that the crank and bearings where free and clear of debri.
Assembley lube was then placed on the block side bearings.
The crank journals got a coat of the assembley lube and the crank was set into place.
The mains where then tourqued in sequence to the ARP torque spec using three steps. This was done five times as recomended by ARP.
The thrust bearing clearance was then checked with a feeler gauge and check out in spec.
Next the rings where gaped to spec. Each ring was fitted to the cylinder in which it was installed. Top ring was gaped to 20 and the bottom 23. All oil rings were checked to insure proper clearance. All rings were seated with a piston with the 2nd ring installed. My rings were marked 150 and that was made to face toward the head.
Once this was done and the pistons were assembled. One cir-clip was installed on each of the pistons.
The rods were then preped for assembley. I made all bearing notches face the exhaust side just like factory. The rods where then placed inside the piston and a little lube was on the wrist pin and contact surfaces. The wrist pin slid into place and the other circlip was installed to secure the wrist pin.
The rod bearing surfaces where then made sure to be clean and the bearings where installed.
No lube should be added before you check your clearances.
The ring gapes where then orientated in the manner that was on each instruction manual inside the bag with the rings.
One and Four were done first. The dot on the piston indicates the front of the motor.
Using a ring compressor, each corresponding piston went into its corresponding hole. Be sure to apply a non detergant engine oil to the piston walls and the piston skirt to avoid scuffing. I used a deadblow hammer to lightly tap in the pistons in.
I did not take any pics before the lube was added. Please note that these bearings should be dry when checking clearances. The bearing clearances where then checked using plastigauge. Once they checked out, lube was applied and the caps were torqued to 43ft lbs according to eagle. The same steps where followed for 2 and 3. These bolts also use moly lube and a 5 time tourque method.
Once done the crank was rotated to ensure smooth rotation. (Video)
Do not forget to install or block off your oil spuirters. Mine where reinstalled after inspection of the spuirter valves.
I started with a block that had been decked and bored .020 over to accept the Weisco 1400 HD pistons.
It was then cleaned and painted. I used Painters Tape to tape the block off. Please do not use duct tape as it will be a pain to clean.
I followed this thread to final wash the block.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/362154-how-final-wash-engine-block.html
Once washed I reinstalled my balance shaft bearings 180* from the oiling holes using the rent a tool bearing race installer from autozone.
Next I made sure all the main journals where clean. I installed the bearings with a oil slot in the block and the ones without into the caps.
Next the main studs where lubed with ARP moly lube and hand tightened into the block. The crank was set into place with the bearings dry.
All main journal clearances where checked using plastigauge green. All journals where within factory spec.
The crank was then rotated 90* and checked again. All where within spec.
Once done the crank was removed. I once again made sure that the crank and bearings where free and clear of debri.
Assembley lube was then placed on the block side bearings.
The crank journals got a coat of the assembley lube and the crank was set into place.
The mains where then tourqued in sequence to the ARP torque spec using three steps. This was done five times as recomended by ARP.
The thrust bearing clearance was then checked with a feeler gauge and check out in spec.
Next the rings where gaped to spec. Each ring was fitted to the cylinder in which it was installed. Top ring was gaped to 20 and the bottom 23. All oil rings were checked to insure proper clearance. All rings were seated with a piston with the 2nd ring installed. My rings were marked 150 and that was made to face toward the head.
Once this was done and the pistons were assembled. One cir-clip was installed on each of the pistons.
The rods were then preped for assembley. I made all bearing notches face the exhaust side just like factory. The rods where then placed inside the piston and a little lube was on the wrist pin and contact surfaces. The wrist pin slid into place and the other circlip was installed to secure the wrist pin.
The rod bearing surfaces where then made sure to be clean and the bearings where installed.
No lube should be added before you check your clearances.
The ring gapes where then orientated in the manner that was on each instruction manual inside the bag with the rings.
One and Four were done first. The dot on the piston indicates the front of the motor.
Using a ring compressor, each corresponding piston went into its corresponding hole. Be sure to apply a non detergant engine oil to the piston walls and the piston skirt to avoid scuffing. I used a deadblow hammer to lightly tap in the pistons in.
I did not take any pics before the lube was added. Please note that these bearings should be dry when checking clearances. The bearing clearances where then checked using plastigauge. Once they checked out, lube was applied and the caps were torqued to 43ft lbs according to eagle. The same steps where followed for 2 and 3. These bolts also use moly lube and a 5 time tourque method.
Once done the crank was rotated to ensure smooth rotation. (Video)
Do not forget to install or block off your oil spuirters. Mine where reinstalled after inspection of the spuirter valves.
