Borescoped my Cylinders

[Achelea]

Since there were no Aircraft to work on at the hangar, I thought I'd borrow the boss's Bore scope and take a few pics of my Cylinders.

I'm not to familiar with this Bore scope, but I think I can figure out how to take better pics later.
(FIxing F'ing pictures atm)

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I also took some vids. I'm sorry they are not sorted, I'm not sure which ones are which cylinders I do know the really clean one is #1
YouTube - DIGI0066
YouTube - DIGI0071
YouTube - DIGI0070
YouTube - DIGI0069
YouTube - DIGI0082
YouTube - DIGI0084

Also, in case anyone asks if the car has been acting funny, here is a list of all my current observations.

No, this isn't a Fix my problem thread, I am searching and waiting for parts to fix several of the issues below. As well as this car being my ONLY ride for the time being, I cannot tear it apart with out being stranded.

Known Problems:

1.) Constant boost leak from lower injector seals, possibly bad seals, isolator bushings, or injectors.
2.) Lifter tick, or injector tick. Annoying, but goes away when warm.
3.) Burns oil in the morning. I drive off to work, and I leave a cloud of blue smoke behind me.
4.) Recently replaced my blown 14b with a rebuilt s16g, but the 16g had bent and chipped fins.
4.a.) Coolant spotted running down the front of the oil return tube.
5.) Valve guides and seals wearing out. During the turbo swap, #2 cylinder port was wet with oil. Others were moist, but not wet
6.) Prior owner must have dropped the head. Lower left stud on the exhaust side has broken the corner of the block off. Tried tightening a nut on the bolt, and it broke the corner off the head.
7.) Oil leaking from various places on the head, under the CAS, developing oil leak on the broken bolt on the head.
8.) Valve cover pooling oil near Cylinder 1. Changed PCV valve and continues to pool oil
9.) Area near connection to inlet tube also wet with oil.
10.) Back side of engine and trans always wet with oil. Doesn't drip, just constantly wet. (Most likely the CAS oil leak)
11.) Bogs in the morning when first starting off, wether i let the car warm up for 5 minutes, or 25. It is sluggish until I've driven down the road for a while. 10+ miles or so. Like when leaving work, it struggles to get to 55mph even when I stay out of boost.
12.) Rolling clicking noise coming from timing belt side, possibly the water pump, idler pulley, or tensioner pulley. Have been waiting for garage or warmer weather to inspect.
13.) Ticking/knocking coming from transmission side, usually goes away when clutch is engaged. Trans shifts normally, only rarely is it difficult to get into gear.
14.) Boost gauge appears to be going out of calibration. With the Key ON, and engine OFF, the Factory boost gauge shows 0, aftermarket one shows 1-3 in mercury. Might explain why at cruising it shows 20in mercury. (Might also be because cruising is usually at 65, )
15.) Bolt broken off in head at center fuel rail bolt.
16.) Constant hissing coming from somewhere under intake. Possible gasket or vacuum underneath got disconnected/cut
17.) Lower bolt for ignition pack not installed. Wtf?

So, Questions, Comments, Suggestions?

 

[Lofty]

I'm not an engine internal expert/cylinder head expert but I would say that the carbon build up is a little more than I'd like to see. Running too rich and burning some oil would cause carbon buildup like this. Alright lets go through all your problems on here. Ticking? Don't worry about it. Seriously. It just lifter tick and isn't harmful and if it goes away on warmup, then its for sure lifter tick. Don't sweat this one.
Buy new O-rings and all the spacers and all that fun stuff from extremepsi or wherever vendor you choose.
The oil issue may be cause by a bad turbo or valve stem seals or bad rings. I would assume its head related just for the fact that it doesn't always burn oil, but that's an assumption.
The coolant running down the oil drain is probably an untight banjo fitting on (the back of the turbo is the one I'm thinking).
When I did my E316G install, I didn't torque that banjo bolt down on the back of the turbo good enough and re-used the crush washed and coolant leaked down the same part. Since you said you just did a turbo swap, it's safe to assume that you didn't tighten one of the fittings down enough, unfortunately to get to almost all of the turbo banjo bolts you have to take off the turbo from the mainfold. If you did the quick drop method, meaning you have 4 bolts through your manifold, instead of 3 with a stud, then you "Should" be able to drop it and leave the manifold on if I'm not mistaken. Put all the lines on the turbo FIRST asides from the oil feed line, careful not to strip the aluminum oil feed galley, it's not fun to fix that..

So then I was going through your list, and the cheapest way to fix ALL of these, would be a new built head. Yes. Your valve cover gasket is leaking, and I'm assuming your intake manifold gasket is leaking. You have a lot of broken bolts, and a lot of issues like that. Replace the water pump when you do the head, replace the head gasket, replace the valve cover gasket, replace the intake manifold gasket, replace all the orings and gaskets on the fuel rail/injectors, possibly replace the headstuds with ARP. Replace all idlers and pulleys on the timing side with OEM components, as well as replacing the bshaft belt.
You have a lot of work ahead of you. But it's nothing too bad. I suggest saving for a daily driver first because this is a decent amount of work. You can leave it as it is, but the longevity of your DSM is going to be significantly lowered unless you do all these maintenance issues.

Not the best news, but I'd assume your bottom end is okay.

Do a compression test first, see what that tells you, I have a few broken exhaust manifold studs that couldn't be saved by easy outs. I need a new head too.... D: