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boost problem

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4g63ttuner

10+ Year Contributor
49
0
Apr 8, 2009
omaha, Nebraska
ok havnt gotten on my car for a long time now......but anyways tonight kinda went to open it up and it felt like the turbo wouldnt spool and there would be no boost building my boost gauge wouldnt go over "0" already pulled the car into the garage and did boost leak test and there was none.....all sensors and everything are hooked up.....any ideas?
 
ok havnt gotten on my car for a long time now......but anyways tonight kinda went to open it up and it felt like the turbo wouldnt spool and there would be no boost building my boost gauge wouldnt go over "0" already pulled the car into the garage and did boost leak test and there was none.....all sensors and everything are hooked up.....any ideas?

Explain how you performed the BLT. What your are saying is either impossible or your not providing enough info. If the boost gauge reads zero their is a boost leak or its unhooked. But since you stated it didnt feel as if it were boosting then that means there should be a boost leak.


Kolby
 
Is the wastegate actuator armature still connected to the wastegate flapper arm? If this falls off, the wastegate will be permanently open, resulting in (usually) 0 boost. The cotter pin in it may have fallen out and the arm slid off.
 
the guage works everything is hooked up all plugs wires actuator boost gauge IC piping...i mean everything is hooked up just went to punch it and it boosted up to 0 and wouldnt pull AT ALL.......i know its not fuel cut and the spark plugs and wires are brand new as of 3 days ago not even 100miles on them and they still look perfrect no shaftplay on the turbo at all idk what it could be
 
the guage works everything is hooked up all plugs wires actuator boost gauge IC piping...i mean everything is hooked up just went to punch it and it boosted up to 0 and wouldnt pull AT ALL.......i know its not fuel cut and the spark plugs and wires are brand new as of 3 days ago not even 100miles on them and they still look perfrect no shaftplay on the turbo at all idk what it could be

me and you are having the exact same problem
 
has it been tuned lately???? did you take the turbo out and see if its worn out?? did ya check all the bolts and conections?
 
We are trying to help dont go being a smart ass. When it reads ZERO that means your leaking BOOST + pressure. You have a boost leak Period. If the gauge is reading HG and then hits zero and wont go its a boost leak. If your flapper is hooked up and the BLT found zero leaks then pull the o2 housing and make sure the flapper seat isnt cracked. This would be the only other thing.

Kolby
 
LOL im not being a smart ass was just sayin but anyways there is no boost leak and the car is properly tuned 3weeks ago btw and all ic pipes are hooked up properly and all cupplers are BRAND NEW bought new ones incase if one ahd a split in it but have also done another boost leak test and everything was good and is still doing it.....plugs wires compression pretty much anything i could think of i did lastnight and today......all sensors are good no splits in any wires NOTHING the turbo has NO shaftplay what so ever
 
LOL im not being a smart ass was just sayin but anyways there is no boost leak and the car is properly tuned 3weeks ago btw and all ic pipes are hooked up properly and all cupplers are BRAND NEW bought new ones incase if one ahd a split in it but have also done another boost leak test and everything was good and is still doing it.....plugs wires compression pretty much anything i could think of i did lastnight and today......all sensors are good no splits in any wires NOTHING the turbo has NO shaftplay what so ever

Are you familiar with how a boost/vacuum gauge works? When idling you should be in HG usually around 20hg. When you accelerate it builds boost. Your stating its reading ZERO. That means your getting some Boost pressure just not enough. Thus you HAVE A BOOST LEAK. If it was a naturally aspirated motor you would show HG all the time you would never reach "0" on the gauge. This means you have a massive leak.

THINK about what your saying because you do have a boost leak. If the turbine spins and your reading ZERO at WOT then you have a leak. YOU may not SEE if but its there. EGR valve couplers throttle body etc. Use soapy water and spray down everything run 20psi on teh BLT and find the leak.


Im trying to help. I dont get why people that have issues ask for help and then argue. In the end when you find your boost leak your going to chuckle. Because I promise you have a leak.


Keep looking man Good Luck!
Kolby

Have you checked the Flapper ? I had a 14b the hotside was cracked through the flapper seat and did the same thing no matter how I adjusted the MBC it was sealing.
 
Are you familiar with how a boost/vacuum gauge works? When idling you should be in HG usually around 20hg. When you accelerate it builds boost. Your stating its reading ZERO. That means your getting some Boost pressure just not enough. Thus you HAVE A BOOST LEAK. If it was a naturally aspirated motor you would show HG all the time you would never reach "0" on the gauge. This means you have a massive leak.

THINK about what your saying because you do have a boost leak. If the turbine spins and your reading ZERO at WOT then you have a leak. YOU may not SEE if but its there. EGR valve couplers throttle body etc. Use soapy water and spray down everything run 20psi on teh BLT and find the leak.


Im trying to help. I dont get why people that have issues ask for help and then argue. In the end when you find your boost leak your going to chuckle. Because I promise you have a leak.


Keep looking man Good Luck!
Kolby

Have you checked the Flapper ? I had a 14b the hotside was cracked through the flapper seat and did the same thing no matter how I adjusted the MBC it was sealing.

+1 maybe the actuator its shoot or loose check again if you don´t have leaks
 
I still haven't heard whether the actuator arm is connected to the flapper arm. You keep saying that all the couplers and hoses are tight, but nothing about the actuator arm. That's probably the most common cause of the "0-boost" problem. Even if you had a large boost leak, you would still probably be able to show at least a little bit of positive pressure. My guess is, the armature fell off the flapper arm or the flapper itself is dislodged or completely gone, resulting in the turbo spooling to 0 and then stopping.
 
I still haven't heard whether the actuator arm is connected to the flapper arm. You keep saying that all the couplers and hoses are tight, but nothing about the actuator arm. That's probably the most common cause of the "0-boost" problem. Even if you had a large boost leak, you would still probably be able to show at least a little bit of positive pressure. My guess is, the armature fell off the flapper arm or the flapper itself is dislodged or completely gone, resulting in the turbo spooling to 0 and then stopping.

Listen to the man with the name in green.
 
LOL im not being a smart ass was just sayin but anyways there is no boost leak and the car is properly tuned 3weeks ago btw and all ic pipes are hooked up properly and all cupplers are BRAND NEW bought new ones incase if one ahd a split in it but have also done another boost leak test and everything was good and is still doing it.....plugs wires compression pretty much anything i could think of i did lastnight and today......all sensors are good no splits in any wires NOTHING the turbo has NO shaftplay what so ever
Does the compressor wheel spin?
 
..... :nono: is there a reason your getting defensive? WTF

WE ARE TRYING TO HELP. Whenever we say hey check this ITS BECAUSE WE HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AND WE ARE suggesting our solution.

Stop and think about what your saying. You have ZERO boost leaks. Zero Vacuum leaks. The flapper SEALS. The turbine spins....

Okay. Engine running at curb idle. You should read around 20hg on the boost gauge. IM still assuming you have an aftermarket gauge. This means the turbine at idle is in fact spinning because whenver you accelerate the needle climbs from 20hg to 0. Thus your acheiving small amounts of boost. Therefore I would HEED my advice and remove the o2 housing and check the flapper seat. IT IS possible that you have a leak heres a pic of WHAT I JUST FOUND a few days ago during a 16g install. Same issues MBC cranked all the way down ZERO boost. NO boost leak etc. JUST LIKE YOU!!!!


Examine the seat of the flapper its gone. Some idiot ran this hotside waaay lean and it cracked through. The flapper close is still freeflowing exhaust pressure out the o2 housing instead of being diverted through the compressor housing and into the IC piping.



Getting annoyed
Kolby
 

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How about we just leave this be until the BLT is done no sence repeating it over and over people getting frustrated.
 
hey guys im not tryin to jack this thread but im having the same problem, my 90 talon tsi will only go to about 3 p.s.i and its slower than dog shit but anyway ive been reading all the forums and gotten some great help by just "trolling" the forums,so thanks in advance.but anyway i pulled my turbo out and it looks identical to the one in the picture above..so what do i have to do now..just by another turbo?
 
well if i remember correctly if the cat was plugged it would smell real bad, the turbo would probably start to glow and the car would run like crap, in this case my turbo just doesnt want to spool and it looks identical to the picture above
 
You will have issues building boost if the flapper doesnt seat. This is basically just a major boost leak. Mine would build to about 8psi with the MBC cranked all the way down and lag time for boost was retarded.

This hotside was bought on a used turbo and most likely ran in a very "lean" condition for a long period. You might want to check AFR's if yours is cracked this bad. Ive heard some of the td05 hotsides were having issues with cast cracking but this isnt due to weak casting the crack runs all the way through to the mouth where it mounts to the mani


Kolby
 
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