Boost leak test need some help

[PrimerPLus]

I decided to do a BLT today, I have an evo3 16g on the way and wanted to be sure I was nice and tight.
Well I found a few leaks there is a leak coming out of my BOV where the screw tightener is that adjusts it, also found a leak coming out of this screw whole.

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Also I am using the boostpro tester and it would not go up to the 5psi mark it would just stop, i am hopeing its because of the leaks I found.

Are there suppose to be bolts or other things in these spots?

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[eagle93tsi]

Your first picture is the BISS throttle body screw. It should not leak and needs to be replaced. Unfortunately I do not have any other suggestions as I am just learning to do the boost leak test as well. My big leaks so far are the injector seals and the inter cooler under the hose connections.

 

[pos4g63]

The 3rd and 4th pic are of the cam angle sensor I believe. The last pic looks like an engine mount. So i dont think it is leaking from either of those.

 

[LiquidX]

You are doing your boost leak test using soapy water correct?

Eagle is correct, the screw on the TB is the BISS and you will need to get a new O ring on the screw. Be sure to read the vfaq on how how properly adjust the BISS so you don't put the ISC out of adjustment.

Which kind of BOV do you have? Generally if the adjustment screw is leaking then pull it out and put some teflon tape on it to help it seal up and re check. Hopefully the diaphragm isn't shot.

Since you cannot get above 5psi on the test that does indicate some big leaks, fix the ones you have found, re test and find the rest. I suggest starting at the TB elbow first to find and fix the leaks then attach the tester to the turbo compressor and pressurize the whole system.

If you have a MBC you need to pinch off the line and check to make sure your PCV isn't leaking. You should be able to pressurize up to at least 20 psi and have it hold good for at least a minute all depending on how well the internal seals are.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Yes I was using soapy water, and I have a Greddy Type-s BOV

and I know the motor mounts dont leak , i just seen them wholes and wanted to know if there was something that was suppose to go in them.
Also in picture 2 it has the letter P E A, i seen some engines that has another black hose coming out of the P slot and I do not. is that suppose to be?

I was using this guide and the tester from boostpro.net

 

[Mello]

There is a small o-ring on the BISS screw which you can replace if it is leaking. Should be fairly easy to find one the right size. Before you take this screw out, count the number of turn it take to screw it all the way in. When you put it back, screw it all the way in and then screw it back out the same number of turn. The BISS screw is for setting your idle. As for all the other holes you took picture off, they have nothing to do with things related to boost leaks and you don't need to worry.

 

[agentorange313]

Part number: MD608806

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

 

[PrimerPLus]

Thanks for the part number, I may replace the screw too.

So just so I am clear the 2nd picture down on the throttle body, where it has P E A, since I have a 98 gsx, it is suppose to be like that?

 

[Mello]

Yes, if you haven't messed with any of the vacuum lines & emissions crap. All those hose are for emissions. Just check them to make sure they are in good condition and don't leak. Just pinch them between your fingers to see if they feel soft and rubbery and are still flexible. Those holes I think you're concerned about are from the manufacturing process of the throttle body. It's how they make all the passageways. They are blocked off with little BB's and they shouldn't be a leak problem.

 

[BoostedBeaver]

You can go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up a number 5 O-ring. This will seal up the biss screw.

Only reaching 5 lbs means you have some big leaks depending on what you are using to test the system. Make sure that you are 40* after top dead center and only rotate the engine clockwise to get there. Use a 1/2 ratchet in the harmonic balancer to rotate the engine. You need to at least have one set of valves on each cylinder closed. If intake and exhaust valves for the same cylinder are open, the air will flow right through your motor.

Robert

 

[BoostedBeaver]

I will have to try 40* BTDC as I experience some leakage past the rings at 40* ATDC. OP just be sure that air is not flowing through your engine, IE intake and exhaust valves open for 1 particular cylinder.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Maybe that was my problem I did not mess with the crank, I just hooked up my tester with the coupler right onto the turbo inlet. and used my air compresser to blow air into it. I will try it this way and also on the throttle body elbow too.

 

[grim reefer]

My GST is leaking bad also, here is a cheap tool for checking leaks 2G Turbo DSM Boost Leaks -How to test and fix

 

[luv2rallye]

I tryed that very one. But you really need a gauge on it to be useful so I made this one. You can get all parts from Home Depot for less than $20.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=122002&d=1303358982

 

[PrimerPLus]

Yah I ordered this one http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-boost-leak-test-how-boostpro-net-tester.html

but still had to get the coupler, I got that from home depot.

 

[LiquidX]

I have one of those testers and it worked well for a while. I don't like 1feature about it which us it doesn't have a lip for the clamp. Once you start testing above 20-25 lbs you may run across issues of the tester popping out of the coupler.

 

[luv2rallye]

Once you start testing above 20-25 lbs you may run across issues of the tester popping out of the coupler.

That happened to me too but using double sided tape (or maybe rubber cement on a roughened surface) between the coupler and the tester, along with a wider large radiator style hose clamp (with the worm gear to really crank it tight), fixed that.

 

[LiquidX]

That happened to me too but using rubber cement (or double sided tape) between the coupler and the tester, along with a wider radiator hose clamp (with the worm gear to really crank it tight), fixed it.

I upgraded to one of these.
Intake Leak Pressure Tester

The bottom portion is machined with a lip and has help up to over 30psi without blowing off. The only other fix I came up with was to put a sturdy solid object (2x4) between the tester plate and the car body .

 

[BoostedBeaver]

I upgraded to one of these.
Intake Leak Pressure Tester

The bottom portion is machined with a lip and has help up to over 30psi without blowing off. The only other fix I came up with was to put a sturdy solid object (2x4) between the tester plate and the car body .

Thanks for the link!!! I have been looking for something with a lip.

 

[PrimerPLus]

So I replaced the throttle body idle screw o-ring no more leakage out of that, now there seems to be a leak right before the body at the intake manifold where they bolt up together. Still can't seem to get over 5psi of boost, but would that have anything to do with the fact my turbo is basically dead, which is why I am getting the evo 3 16g in the first place.
Also I did a compression test today, I got 150 across the board.
While I was letting my car warm up before the compression test I noticed some smoke coming out of the far right of the exhaust manifold, it looked like a cigarette smoke and came up like it as well. imagine someone smoking and you see the smoke floating up that's what it looked like .


Oh on a side note, I did go to Homedepot and got the #5 o-ring, they only had a box of like 20 in there so I went to customer service and I asked the chick there if I could just buy 1, and she popped it open and said merry chirstmas .
She gave me 2 for free!

 

[LiquidX]

Injector lower insulators are prone to leaks as well as the intake manifold gasket. So it sounds like you have a cracked exhaust manifold? Is the smoke from the manifold or the flange?

 

[BoostedBeaver]

LiQUiDx
So it sounds like you have a cracked exhaust manifold? Is the smoke from the manifold or the flange?

This seems to be one problem.

The throttle body gasket is stocked at most autozone's that I have went to. The throttle body elbow gasket must be ordered from a vendor unless you buy a whole kit from autozone in my experience.

You may want to spray some soapy water on the throttle body shaft seals. If they are leaking, you can do those while you have it out.

Robert

 

[PrimerPLus]

I started the process today of taking out my t25 turbo and I noticed the exhaust manifold bolts, and o2 housing bolts, were not tight at all, I could twist off with my fingers...

I looked all over my exhaust manifold for cracks didn't find any. I think it had to do with loose bolts etc..


On a side note
I am excited to get my new evo 3 16g on. Just spent some time porting the mani, and o2 housing, I think it could be done better but I was using a drill with a stone grinder and it was taking for ever haha. My install kit did not come with a o2 housing gasket so I got some info from a fellow dsm'er and he suggested the gasket kit from schucks, it had the eclipse o2 housing in it along with others i didnt need, but i just ended up cutting the gasket a little to fit the evo 3 16g turbo. So I think this will work fine. Also ended up having to replace the o2 sensor on there since the wires were exposed and starting to fray. Dealer wanted about $170 >.< them thieves

In the future when I decide I need it, I will look into getting and aftermarket o2 housing and exhaust manifold that will fit right up to the evo 3 16g or at least have them ported to fit right up. My arms are soo tired after that .

So any recommendations on an o2 housing and exhaust manifold that will work great with the evo 3 16g? I will not port ever again .

 

[LiquidX]

Loose exhaust bolts would be a major problem! As for the o2 housing, if it's the thin flexible steel one, I just copper spray and reuse them. Same with the MLS exhaust manifold gasket and turbo to manifold gasket (only if that one looks fine).

A 2g manifold is enough for the 16G but if you want a better one get the FP race manifold. I used a Megan Racing o2 housing and never had issue. I'm on a Punishment Racing housing now and love it. MAPerformance has their own o2 housings as well which look excellent.