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Boost gauge help ????

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ohyeah

15+ Year Contributor
46
2
Jun 13, 2011
denver, Colorado
This is a dumb question but i still need it answered , so i have an aftermarket boost gauge i got that wired up and t'd to the FPR, but when i start the car and rev it the aftermarket boost gauge needle does not move, the only one that does move is the factory one. Would any one know the reason to why that is?
 
I cant really take it for a spin its a fresh build and i can only rev it up to 2 k and it dies out because theirs no proper tune but before i was avle to get it to 4.5 k and the needle would fluctuate as if a boost pipe was blown off , their is no boost leaks either I've.already done the test, im assuming that the.stock.gauge is.showing vacuum
 
Does your aftermarket gauge read vacuum?

The stock gauge is supposed to be a boost gauge, but you'll quickly see that it is useless for boost readings.
 
:hmm: Not sure why it would do that. Either way I wouldn't worry about it if you did everything correctly.
 
mine stays at 0 if my car was off for the first 5 mins of driving unless its a cold start. If I rev it hard it just jitters but stays at 0 not even vaccum. Then all of a sudden it just drops down and shows normal readings. Idk why but it does that LOL. I have a glowshift if that matters. Try driving it around it might just come down.
 
No proper tune, sitting in park, and you can only rev up to 2000, there's no way that boost gauge is gonna move. Get it running and then worry about the gauge, it will probably work. If not its just because you t'd off the wrong line.
 
mine stays at 0 if my car was off for the first 5 mins of driving unless its a cold start. If I rev it hard it just jitters but stays at 0 not even vaccum. Then all of a sudden it just drops down and shows normal readings. Idk why but it does that LOL. I have a glowshift if that matters. Try driving it around it might just come down.

You T'd into the wrong side of the fuel pressure solenoid. On a cold start it's closed and won't open until the car is warm. That's why all of a sudden it starts reading vacuum after the car warms up.
 
No proper tune, sitting in park, and you can only rev up to 2000, there's no way that boost gauge is gonna move. Get it running and then worry about the gauge, it will probably work. If not its just because you t'd off the wrong line.

Im almost positive everything is where it is supposed to be, another reason why i am worrying about it is because my BOV isn't doing sh** so i thought it might be because the stock gauge was still marking vacuum
 
the quick way is to undo your t-fitting with the engine running, if you hear it "hiss" you have vacuum. I don't think you're going to make much boost in neutral though.
 
You know you're a dsmer when you are more concerned with the gauge you just installed not functioning properly, than the car running at all.
 
If I were you, I'd use a nice clean vaccuum/boost source for your gauge. Personally, I wouldn't "T" it off of anything. Use a hose directly off the intake manifold. Others may do it differently and it's fine, but for me, plumb it direct.
 
I Tee'd mine of my AFPR fine. Because it's a boost only gauge, unless you're actually boosting it wont move. So unless you've got anti-lag setup, you wont build boost without driving.
 
well i figured i wouldn't build boost with the car just chilling their, but i also figured that the stock one wouldn't work after the installation of the aftermarket one ,that's why im confused because the stock one fluctuates ,
 
the stock one doesn't actually measure boost, it just shows assumed boost from reading sensors and such. so it would still work, and don't be surprised if they show different readings when you get the car on the road, as the stock one doesn't account for air filter resistance (opening can of worms and prepared to defend), intercooler efficiency, small boost leaks, or boost creep.
 
You T'd into the wrong side of the fuel pressure solenoid. On a cold start it's closed and won't open until the car is warm. That's why all of a sudden it starts reading vacuum after the car warms up.

what do you mean?

And I meant to say if my car was parked overnight or it goes completely cold it works as soon as I start it but if I shut my car off and come back before it fully cooled down it stays at 0 as if the car was off and when it warms up i drive it just drops down to normal and sometimes it takes about 3-5 mins for it to come down. :)
 
mine does the same thing, you wont make boost until your under load, my stock gauge moves before my aftermarket one does, and my avcr reads vacuum until i start making positive pressure which is when i start to see my aftermarket boost controller move, dont worry about it unless you know your making boost, and its not moving. You sure you have your bov hooked up right? reason i ask is my buddy had it hooked into the valve cover instead of the throttlebody and it obviously didnt work
 
mine does the same thing, you wont make boost until your under load, my stock gauge moves before my aftermarket one does, and my avcr reads vacuum until i start making positive pressure which is when i start to see my aftermarket boost controller move, dont worry about it unless you know your making boost, and its not moving. You sure you have your bov hooked up right? reason i ask is my buddy had it hooked into the valve cover instead of the throttlebody and it obviously didnt work

Hahs actually im not really sure all i know is that i have a line that's coming from underneath my jmf manifold and i got that one hooked on to the BOV
 
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