1G boost gage doesnt work car wont run...

[redfield102j]

Ok this is all i know about this problem. I was driving along at 50 55mph all the sudden the boost gage quit working and the car stoped running. Tried it again after unhooking battery for a few min. Cicled the key and the boost gage activated so i started it. Ran fine for about 2 or 3 min the gage quit again and the car died. Got it home went to put it in garage started it to back it in gage working fine. Car ran for prolly 25 min never had a problem. Shut it off and unhooked the battery. It sat for a couple weeks and i fixed a boost leak and am trying to get it going. Now the gage will not work and car wint start. If you try to start it a couple times and let it sit for a min it will try to start but dies... im lost.. any ideas would be great. Thanks guys

 

[Sjd6795]

Sounds like you have a vacuum/boost leak the boost gauge is only ran off vacuum so nothing eletronic here. I would trace the boost gauge vacuum line and check for anything wrong near it. Also do a boost leak test while you're at it to rule out any other larger leaks.

 

[keltalon]

Sounds like you have a vacuum/boost leak the boost gauge is only ran off vacuum so nothing eletronic here. I would trace the boost gauge vacuum line and check for anything wrong near it. Also do a boost leak test while you're at it to rule out any other larger leaks.

Check the line that goes to the gauge in the car to see if its still connected.

 

[redfield102j]

My gage is the factor

Sounds like you have a vacuum/boost leak the boost gauge is only ran off vacuum so nothing eletronic here. I would trace the boost gauge vacuum line and check for anything wrong near it. Also do a boost leak test while you're at it to rule out any other larger leaks.

i just did the whole sistem and it doesnt leak. My boost gage is also the factory gauge and does not run off of a vaccum line.

 

[keltalon]

My gage is the factor
i just did the whole sistem and it doesnt leak. My boost gage is also the factory gauge and does not run off of a vaccum line.

I assume you mean that you boost leak tested the system?

 

[redfield102j]

Yes i just replaced the intercooler due to a big crack in stock cooler and did a boost leak check to 18lbs and soapy water all joints and possible leak areas no bubbles no leaks

 

[pauleyman]

Turn key on gut do not start. You'll see check engine light go on then off. If it doesnt do this you likely have an ecu problem which is also why your gauge doesnt work. open the ecu up and have a look

 

[redfield102j]

Turn key on gut do not start. You'll see check engine light go on then off. If it doesnt do this you likely have an ecu problem which is also why your gauge doesnt work. open the ecu up and have a look

i am going out to mess with it now. Ill see what lights stay on or not. Ill prolly go out and hook up the battery and it will work right for once... ill post after i check

 

[redfield102j]

Ok so here is what happend hit the key and the gage worked everything appeared normal. So i started it. it fired right up and ran great for about a minute or so the check engine light came on and the car shut off. It how ever was making a funny noise even with key off. Sounded like the injectors still running. Unhooked the battery. That stopped the noise. Re attached battery and noise didnt come back. Tried to start car again. It took a second but fired up. Ran great. Every min or so the cel would flicker and the boost gage would malfunction almost killing the car

 

[pauleyman]

Open the ecu. The clicking you hear is likely the mpi relay. Its a known documented problem. Ecu is likely on its last legs. Youll know for sure if you open it. Nothing to it.

 

[redfield102j]

Ok ill open it. I did get out and feel the injectors while it was making that noise and i could feel it when i touched them. Ill take a pic and post it when i open it

 

[tmoney20g]

there are some pictures on this page under the "corrosion examples" that you can reference:

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/ecurepairhome?s[]=ecu&s[]=repair

both the ecu and the mpi relay are behind the radio.

 

[redfield102j]

I opened it and thought everthing looked good. Then i noticed the light green corosion around one capasitor by white boards.

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[wolf alchemy]

 

[steve]

Time to send it off and get it fixed. That's why the car is dieing.
Those are original capacitors and should have been replaced years ago.

 

[wolf alchemy]

This makes me wonder if mine are original.....

 

[steve]

This makes me wonder if mine are original.....

We have been recommending people check and replace them for almost 2 decades. What are you waiting for, go find out?

Guys with automatics need to change the one big 47uf cap in the TCU too before it kills it.

 

[wolf alchemy]

We have been recommending people check and replace them for almost 2 decades. What are you waiting for, go find out?

Guys with automatics need to change the one big 47uf cap in the TCU too before it kills it.

It's not like I didn't know..I'm second or third owner. Last time I checked the ecu every thing looked good. No corrosion. I only said that because you some how knew he had stock caps....since you can tell I was planning on sending you pictures tomorrow to see if they have been replaced.

 

[redfield102j]

Will have a new ecu on thursday. Ordered from napa.. 305 bucks. Same as summit racing but 2 weeks faster getting it. Now in a previous comment when the ecu was mentioned a "mpi" was reffered as a common problem. What is it and should i go ahead and replace it also? I also just wanna say that this car was a garage find. It sat in the guys garage for over 10 years untouched. So this is my first dsm and i am abit retarded when it comes to the terminology... thank you all for being so patient with me

 

[SNAKE_15]

Will have a new ecu on thursday. Ordered from napa.. 305 bucks. Same as summit racing but 2 weeks faster getting it. Now in a previous comment when the ecu was mentioned a "mpi" was reffered as a common problem. What is it and should i go ahead and replace it also?

Holy moly, 305$??. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure you could've got that fixed with Thomas from Ecmtuning or at least buy one from them way cheaper.

 

[redfield102j]

Holy moly, 305$??. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure you could've got that fixed with Thomas from Ecmlink or at least buy one from them way cheaper.

looked into rebuilding one cost round 200 or so and takes 3 weeks... new one every where else i looked cost alot more than that. I was getting prices close to and over 500. I dont know.. as i said im new to this market. Just need the car to be driving by the end of the month

 

[SNAKE_15]

looked into rebuilding one cost round 200 or so and takes 3 weeks... new one every where else i looked cost alot more than that. I was getting prices close to and over 500. I dont know.. as i said im new to this market. Just need the car to be driving by the end of the month

For a job such as removing that corrosion, you wouldve paid less than 150$ with Thomas and would definitely had it back before the end of this month. At least you took care of your problem though

 

[steve]

Sorry to hear it's going to be so expensive. I told you back in May that both ECU's needed capacitor replacements.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/just-dont-get-it.493442/page-6#post-153522851

 

[GST with PSI]

For a job such as removing that corrosion, you wouldve paid less than 150$ with Thomas and would definitely had it back before the end of this month. At least you took care of your problem though

^This.

I just had an ECU repaired by the guys at ECMtinung. It had a lot of capacitor leakage; some of which had eaten completely through a few of the tracks on the PC board, including one associated with the ECU's ability to read analog sensors. They completely repaired the ECU and installed a socket for around $150. They completed the repair in about 3 days (not factoring in shipping time).

It would still be smart to send your damaged ECU in to be repaired. Even if it was $150 to repair it, that's still less than what a new or used one costs. Also, you'd have a spare.

 

[pauleyman]

I meant computer failing is common. Mpi clicking is a tell tale symptom of that and is well documented.