boost and alarm question

[95'RS-T]

ok first off I have searched for both questions nothing in my situation.
I want to know how much boost I can run on my stock internals on my GS-T list of mods are as follows engine internals are a stock rebuild balance shafts eliminated w/ cometic MLS head gasket, arp head rod and main studs. Evo III big 16G MBC big greddy fmic and hks ssq bov walbro 255 fuel pump 1050cc clinic injectors 3in apexi turbo back exhaust safc II and eprom ecu.

ok question 2. The car starts and idels fine but as soon as I press the gas or put any kind of load on the car it shuts off, the guy I bought it from said the alarm needed to be reprogrammed because it throws a CAS code to shut off the car but he said he replaced the CAS and now its the alarm I'm thinking maybe it needs a new ecu but thats why im asking opinions thanks in advance to everyone.

 

[eazy2g]

If you got the studs, I think you can push around 25 and be okay.

I don't think its the ecu. Should probably have an installer take a look at it.

 

[95'RS-T]

ok thanks a lot for the info so with 25psi pump gas and a good tune I should be able to push 310hp no problem correct? Do you think I could get more hp out of it then that?

 

[LiquidX]

Honestly, you are going to have tuning troubles with the 1050's and the safc. The safc is only good for up to 750's. You have an eprom ecu for sure? If so, sell the safc and get ecmlink. If you feel the ecu may be bad, you can send it to the guys at ecmlink and they'll do repairs as well as socket the board.

With the arp headstuds, you'll be good for just under 30. That doesn't mean that is efficent for that turbo though . L19 studs will allow you to go higher in boost if you decide to get a much larger flowing turbo :cough: holset :cough:. You are running an AFPR correct?

 

[the_mork]

I assume that your Eprom ecu isn't just an Eprom ecu and that it has been socketed and chipped for 1050cc injectors and that the SAFC is just for fine tuning. If not then you have a problem and your car will never run.

With an MLS headgasket and head studs you can really push the boost, beyond 30psi would not be unreasonable as long as you never knocked (but the 16g in general should not be pushed that far). Knocking kills headgaskets at way lower boost than the engine could otherwise take and is the primary reason IMO that headgaskets fail. If it weren't for knock people would probably be able to attain mid to high 20psi range on stock head bolts and gaskets. With a no knock tune I'm running 23.5psi on my car but I have ARP studs waiting to be installed when I get the chance. Basically if you have the fuel and those parts you can push that 16g to its edge. I strongly recommend that you get an MAT sensor and tap it into your intake manifold or throttle body elbow. You can then use the MAT sensor to see when you are either heat soaking your intercooler or pushing your turbo well outside of its efficiency range. Once the air coming into your intake manifold heats up past a certain point you aren't going to make more power and you are only going to prematurely damage components (especially the turbo). As always when turning up the boost log your driving like crazy to make sure that everything is happy. Do you have a wideband? If not then getting one is essential. Without one you may as well keep the car stock because I wouldn't risk running any motor hard without one. People used to do it back before widebands were cheap and plentiful but nowadays when you can get one for $200 there is no excuse not to have one on a modified car.

AFAIK there is no reason for an alarm to throw a CAS code. Tapping into the crank or cam sensor would be an easy way to mount a kill switch which could be what the alarm does BUT I highly doubt it and it still shouldn't throw a CAS code unless there is a problem with the install. What is the actual code? You are for certain referring to the cam angle sensor and not the crank position sensor? What type of alarm does it have? Have you tried to uninstall it? I would highly suggest removing any alarm that you didn't pick out and install yourself. There are just too many people out there with hokey wiring skills that think all they need is to twist wires and wrap them in electrical tape (if anyone here ever sees my Jeep in real life and reminds me of this post we can have a good laugh but my Jeep is a Jeep and I only left the unimportant low current wires exposed, twisted, and stretched my DSM gets nice wiring everywhere).

For future reference I would never buy a modified car that didn't run perfectly unless I knew its history or I was getting a screaming deal because the seller didn't know what was wrong and the problem was obvious to me.

 

[Grescht]

eprom ecu......... stock eprom? did you invert your CAS on accident? maybe your wires are incorrect. My car did the same exact thing..... but then i saw my LICP laying on the floor. . MAF plugged in? no messed up wires? CAS wires in good condition? Crank sensor wires?

 

[95'RS-T]

about the eprom ecu& alarm. the alarm I believe is STOCK and not sure about the CAS this is what I was told by the owner, I also do not have the car at my house yet, I'm just asking questions right now to get info on this car before I buy it and have a waste of money on my property. I should have put that in my original post, but I think he said that the car has a wideband if not I will get one and I will ask if the ecu is chipped. Anyway im going to look at the car this weekend how would I be able to tell if the ecu is a eprom? I'm also gonna ask for receipts and I just wanted to see if the alarm was an easy fix by unplugging it.

the estimated work done to the vehicle was over 5K after I confirm the receipts on this I think I'm getting a "screaming deal" for 3,000 but I plan on talking him down to 2,500 if receipts are all good if not I will try for less

 

[the_mork]

The alarm may in fact need to be reprogrammed but it would only be to make it work with keyless entry.

The stock alarm has nothing to do with the CAS AFAIK and would not cause the car to have any weird behavior except for an alarm noise and flashing lights.

The alarm also turns off if you unlock the door. My logging cable grounds the pins on the data port that tell the alarm to reset so that it can be reprogrammed if I turn the car off or on with the cable plugged in. After the first couple of times that I dealt with it I gave up and now I just use the key and the alarm works perfectly sans keyless remote.

 

[95'RS-T]

thanks again, I'm going to find out for sure if the ecu is eprom. I'm pretty sure it is since its a 95, if its not socket-ed i will have it socket-ed,(if its eprom of course) and use ecmlink on my lap top with the OBD2 to USB for tuning. I'm beginning to think that the guy may have not had this car tuned at all, and that's why it shuts off. Maybe its getting too much fuel because of the injectors (not sure if it has AFPR) and shutting down but either I think its a steal if he has receipts.

 

[LiquidX]

epromid [ECMTuning - wiki] Basically says that if there is an "E" in the corner of the case, then it's eprom. Although, I would open it first to make sure it is infact an eprom and he's not pulling your leg. Only half of the 95's came socketed

 

[95'RS-T]

epromid [ECMTuning - wiki] Basically says that if there is an "E" in the corner of the case, then it's eprom. Although, I would open it first to make sure it is infact an eprom and he's not pulling your leg. Only half of the 95's came socketed

your saying that if it is an eprom that it might be socketed already, and if this is so can I use ecm/dsm link right away? Do I still have to send it out to them or no?

never mind the above question I was just thinking the car has SAFCII in it dont you have to tap ECU wires to hook it up?