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2G blue wire mod

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jstgon

15+ Year Contributor
120
0
Jun 17, 2007
Belleville, Michigan
I am looking into doing the blue wire mod or the 100% line pressure mod for my transmission. There is not a lot of informatino out there for the 2g guys. everything I seach is how to do this to a 1g. Can someone help me find what I need to do this mod?
 
Personally, I am not a fan. However, it is the same thing for a 2g as it is for the 1g.


I recommend a relay setup with a WOT switch. That way full line pressure only comes on at WOT. Too high of line pressure during part throttle shifts can cause binding, which will lead to increased wear on your hard parts.

Oh.. did you see my new turbo yet? Pictures on my site.
 
Yea it seems a bit small, are you still working on what you just mentioned?
 
Lol I haven't touched in a long time.. but I have all the parts.

I just need to go back out there and solder in a few resisters to keep the ECU from pulling timing between shifts. No need for that when you run full line pressure. :D
 
Well what are you waiting for? I still owe you 50 for everything I haven't forgotten. I will be he test car if you want for that little project. Oh and the turbo seems a bit small. What is he doing with the neon now? Just parting out and moving to bigger or getting out?
 
He is parting it out to get a cobra kit car.

And yea.. it is a little small. It is only rated at 950 hp :notgood:, but he gave me a good deal on it.

I think I'm going to have to put my direct port bungs to use with it though. haha. Right now I'm waiting on a custom topmount, which I should have next week so I can test this driveshaft out for Shaftmasters. They are looking to market them, but they need me to test the prototype first.
 
I need to get my tires then insurance, before I need help tuning. Too bad it won't happen until spring. It ran great, but i think I blew a fuse. I need to run the codes to check but my power steering wnet out and some other sensors are showing up now. Just went down the road at partial throttle, then when i let off power steering went out and all the codes were thrown. What do you think?
 
I need to get my tires then insurance, before I need help tuning. Too bad it won't happen until spring. It ran great, but i think I blew a fuse. I need to run the codes to check but my power steering wnet out and some other sensors are showing up now. Just went down the road at partial throttle, then when i let off power steering went out and all the codes were thrown. What do you think?

How is your alternator belt? Low voltage (no alternator) will throw all the dash lights.. and since it ties into your power steering pump.. it could cause that to go out as well.
 
Because this is a forum, I was talking about my question then got distracted. So if you want to add feel free to add any information at any time.
 
^^^and where did you get the information saying that its possible to do it on a 2g??? just curious. If so can you send me a link to the directions on how to do it? not that im going to do it but I just want to know that it can be done.
 
^^^and where did you get the information saying that its possible to do it on a 2g??? just curious. If so can you send me a link to the directions on how to do it? not that im going to do it but I just want to know that it can be done.

My friend's old 2ga had it. I have no clue how he did, so don't ask. But riding in the car sucked with full-pressure. Just cruising, the shifts were brutal.
 
My friend's old 2ga had it. I have no clue how he did, so don't ask. But riding in the car sucked with full-pressure. Just cruising, the shifts were brutal.

YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.


Go under the hood, and look on top of the transmission for a plug that has an orange, blue, yellow, and red set of wires in it. Cut the blue wire in half, take the harness side of the wire, and solder on a 10 watt, 10 ohm resistor, and then ground the other end of the resistor. Now you have full pressure, but like 97eclipseboy said, it sucks for everyday.
 
YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.


Go under the hood, and look on top of the transmission for a plug that has an orange, blue, yellow, and red set of wires in it. Cut the blue wire in half, take the harness side of the wire, and solder on a 10 watt, 10 ohm resistor, and then ground the other end of the resistor. Now you have full pressure, but like 97eclipseboy said, it sucks for everyday.

this is what david does in his auto cars joe, and cruising around is very FIRM!
 
Well Bender what would be my BETTER option?
 
Mini Zilo posted the original "blue wire mod" way to do it, only if you are going to do it, do it at the TCU, and not in the engine bay.

There is also an adjustment on your valvebody that you can turn, and every full turn is around 5 psi. I recommend doing this ONLY after you electronically enable full line pressure, and you are still slipping. This is mostly for people really pushing the horsepower.

There is also a pressure relief checkball that is spring loaded.. and it gives way when to much pressure is reached. This is also located in the valvebody, and a stiffer spring can be added. This works good when done in conjunction with the electronically raising the line pressure.

dsmtun3r98gst, I know it can be done because I have been working on both the electronics of 2g dsms, and their automatic transmissions for 5+ years.

Now onto actually electronically controlling it. Enabling full line pressure at all times is not good for your transmission under any condition besides WOT. If you only drag race your car, it will be fine. During cruising, or part throttle, conditions, the excess line pressure "jerks" the transmission into gear. This wears out all the hard parts at an increased rate. You will distort the splines on your input shaft, as well as the drums that ride on them. Also expect your transfer gears, planetary set, and sprags to wear very quickly. Need I dare mention what your steels would look like after a while?

People can do it as mentioned above, or soldering in a resistor on the fluid pressure sensor. This tricks the TCU into thinking there is actually less pressure than there is, so it will raise it. This is like what your AFC and MAFT do for the ecu in controlling fuel.

There are eprom TCU's, and like the ECU's, you can get a chip burned for it. There not only can you raise your line pressure at WOT ONLY, but you can also raise your shift points to what ever you like. I have noticed this blowing the capacitor in the TCU after extended period of usage though.

Or, you can wire in a relay with some resistors to automatically enable full line pressure at WOT, while retaining stock line pressure at part throttle. This can be used WITH the eprom TCU to save the capacitor, and still keep your shift points. Also, it can be wired to prevent the TCU from telling the ecu to pull timing between shifts.. causing an even firmer WOT shift. Again, with NO problems just cruising around.

Also, you can get a shiftbox (I personally like roadsurge) which enabled full line pressure. The new ones are also switchable, so you can still retain your stock TCU for cruising around.

I will post an easier to read version of this on my website when I get time. Automatic DSM'S
 
People can do it as mentioned above, or soldering in a resistor on the fluid pressure sensor. This tricks the TCU into thinking there is actually less pressure than there is, so it will raise it. This is like what your AFC and MAFT do for the ecu in controlling fuel.

So if I understand this correctly, more resistance means more pressure?
And 10ohm would be max pressure?

So all I'd need is a 0-10ohm potentiometer soldered into the blue line to adjust pressure? (Similar to the IPT "Boost" controller?)


And if I really wanted, I could make a really fancy electronic setup where I could have the switchable gears and an adjustable line pressure increase for each upshift (or up and down if I got excessively bored)? It wouldn't be the simplest thing to wire up, but with a basic understanding of electronics and an analogue circuit could be constructed by someone like me. :aha:

Hmmm.... yet another project.
 
So if I understand this correctly, more resistance means more pressure?
And 10ohm would be max pressure?

So all I'd need is a 0-10ohm potentiometer soldered into the blue line to adjust pressure? (Similar to the IPT "Boost" controller?)


And if I really wanted, I could make a really fancy electronic setup where I could have the switchable gears and an adjustable line pressure increase for each upshift (or up and down if I got excessively bored)? It wouldn't be the simplest thing to wire up, but with a basic understanding of electronics and an analogue circuit could be constructed by someone like me. :aha:

Hmmm.... yet another project.

line pressure is pulse modulated. A resistor is the incorrect way of adjusting it.
 
line pressure is pulse modulated. A resistor is the incorrect way of adjusting it.

Incorrect but it works. IPT uses it in their ridiculously marked up valvebodies. I forgot the actual one they used, but I remember they use 3. Maybe I will open mine up when I get bored.

Also, I meant to say pressure control solenoid valve, IDK why I said sensor. Maybe I was thinking temp sensor for some reason.
 
Incorrect but it works. IPT uses it in their ridiculously marked up valvebodies. I forgot the actual one they used, but I remember they use 3. Maybe I will open mine up when I get bored.

Also, I meant to say pressure control solenoid valve, IDK why I said sensor. Maybe I was thinking temp sensor for some reason.

The resistors they use are in the control box they sell not in the valve body. Yes they use 3 of them for varying degrees of resistance. I guess it works, but that depends on your definition of "works". Even with that you still need something to send the original pulsed signal.
 
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