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enriquez2000

Proven Member
2,408
1,016
Oct 5, 2014
fort collins, Colorado
Well did the test and got as far as

Fpr is blowing soapy bubbles out of the metal.
BISS blows bubbles like those old bubble pipes
j Jpipe gasket has tiny bubbles

Looks like a new fpr is needed for sure. Tried sealing the BISS with a vacuum cap (should work until pressure gets high) until we get a rebuild kit.

Oh and found that the fpr had shot the vacuum line off causing 9inhg idling.
 
extreme psi had all you'll need. put new o rings in the biss, new fpr and gasket for the j pipe and you're set. hope it does fix all the boost leaks.
 
Don't forget to check the throttle shaft seal area. Old seals will leak BAD. Just a reminder.
 
You sure the smoke machine is safe for internals?
yes, that is what they are made for :thumb: They look like this and a couple shops have let me borrow them for free! http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...detectors/oem-smoke-leak-detector/544732_0_0/
If you want one, I'm sure you could find one for much cheaper! I'm sure one you'd find in the club would work equally well if you hooked up a hose and used this engine safe solution http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...ors/redline-smoke-producing-fluid/972437_0_0/ it leaves no reidue whatsoever. It's a bit pricey but nothing is as through or easy!
 
Very wise while you are there. We put our seals in the freezer before trying to install to make it a tad bit smaller, this might or might not help you out when you do yours. Just a tip. Mark the throttle plate "up" and "out" and draw a line with a sharpie on the inside of the TB and onto the throttle plate also, this helps you get it back together in the correct orientation. I have mistakenly put the plate in wrong and was glad I had marked it prior to disassembly. Also, if you have a dremel tool, it helps if you dremel off the back side of the two screws that hold the plate in to help get them to come out since they are "staked" from the factory, then use locktite on the screws when you reassemble....don't need any little screw coming out and messing up the whole works. Just tryin to be helpful. :thumb:
 
One last tip, draw a straight line on the outside of the outer throttle spring with the sharpie also so you know when you rewind it that you have it wound just like it was before, then wind BOTH (inner and outer) springs together when putting it back on.
 
One last tip, draw a straight line on the outside of the outer throttle spring with the sharpie also so you know when you rewind it that you have it wound just like it was before, then wind BOTH (inner and outer) springs together when putting it back on.
Thats the part that has me most concerned...
 
Oh its not tough, I tie a little zip tie around both spring hooks (or a bread tie or string that you can cut) then wind them together. After you have it back in place (with the line you drew being straight again), just cut the tie/string and your good! :) I have been rebuilding carbs since, around 1976 or so (dam I'm old) so these little tips come from years of experience. Anything to help another person out, so if there is anything else that comes up just post it or PM me.
 
Oh its not tough, I tie a little zip tie around both spring hooks (or a bread tie or string that you can cut) then wind them together. After you have it back in place (with the line you drew being straight again), just cut the tie/string and your good! :) I have been rebuilding carbs since, around 1976 or so (dam I'm old) so these little tips come from years of experience. Anything to help another person out, so if there is anything else that comes up just post it or PM me.
Appreciate it... i got a rebuild kit on the way and will be tackling this soon
 
Not a problem at all. I am still new to some of this platform but an old hand at carbs/thottle bodies. Glad to help in any way.

PS. I am partial to your car, love the color scheme.....
 
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