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Blew up my motor, best route to take.

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Carney714

10+ Year Contributor
101
0
Jun 4, 2012
Santa Ana, California
Alright, i know this has been asked many of times, but just have one concern about my next build.

I have two options, i cant decide which to take.
i do have supporting mods and a build head
ill be running a FP BIG t28 with about 18-20 psi on 91 gas and imma try to max it on e85 (was doing 24 psi before without it falling flat at redline)

Option one:
98-99 7 bolt .020 over with forged internals. I will most likely be going with MANLEY H beams and MANLEY pistons. This will be a more expensive route but I like Manley internals.

Option two:
buddy has a machined 6 bolt .020 over and a set of WISECO pistons and EAGLE H beam rods. This would be a cheaper option and a 6g bolt 7 bolt head would be awesome.

I have done alot of research, and i have been reading alot about longevity on forged internals. and Piston slap that comes with forged internals. This is my DD and i hardly push her hard.

Would forged internals really cut down on my engine life? And how many really have gotten piston slap on cold start ups.
 
I have a built motor and built head and i have been running a built motor/built head with eagle h-beams, regular moly coated wiseco's, bored .020, been on that motor for over 3 years now with no problems encountering piston slap.
 
You need to read more then. You only get piston slap if your piston to wall clearance is not in tolerance. So if it's not built right it has nothing to do with internals you buy. Obviously if you blew up your motor you drive it hard or you have nothing to tune your car with. Regardless of which motor you go with you need to get some sort of ems. And I have to ask why Manley? Have you used them before or are you just basing it off of the Internet? I run je pistons and eagle rods with no problems on a built motor. It's more of a personal choice but Manley is good stuff. Just be realistic with your budget and that itself will make your decision.
 
Just wanted to clear things up. I have used Manley in my ex mustang gt supercharged.

I do have a friend (build many Dsm motors) I know I won't reach my goal (400hp) with my t28. What's the highest psi I can push her?
I will be getting a retune after my break in period
 
I have Manley H beams and Wiseco pistons. After breaking a wrist pin last year and looking for a replacement rod, the only one I could find with the same gram weight was an Eagle H beam. I had them side by side and was able to compare them closely. I must say that I like the design of the Eagle much better, especially the small end. There is much more rod width to support the wrist pin. The rods themselves are a little thicker IIRC. It has been a year and my memory isn't the best though.

Other than that, I have over 20,000 miles on my forged motor with no problems. No slap. I went with .0025" PTW which is really .003" after the coating wears off.
 
I'm going to back what AWD_LASER said:

I'm also running a built block / head. Over 20K on it as of now and no issues. Eagle rods, Wiseco pistons. I even took my block and head apart when I was transferring over my motor to another shell just to see what it looked like.

Even running 25-30 psi all day, my internals were spotless and in great condition. I couldn't be happier running my Wiseco Eagle combo...

Here is the issue with going for the 7-bolt. Most people will tell you Crankwalk is overrated... however I had a 1g 7-bolt block rebuilt (those are not supposed to CW) and 400 miles out of the rebuild, the motor crankwalked...so I would be leery of any 7-bolt motors. But that was just my experience. In fact, that's what led me to build my 6-bolt block, myself, to avoid a shop screwing things up...Never been happier!

-Scott
 
Order one of the jdm 6 bolt and slap it on the car. Do the timing belt and head stud. You are not looking for some huge power base on what you mentioned. This will be your cheapest and most fool prove route.
 
i know the 7 bolt has a higher chance of crankwalk, but the 98-99 blocks are the revised block with the extra bearing. But im getting the 6 bolt machined and with the rod/pistons for 600. Thats a good deal. and going with a 1mm oversize valves.

Just looking around with a crank.
 
Just FYI the 1mm over is a type of thing where it would be money better spent else where. Your goals ain't hi at all and bigger valves aren't going to help to where you can say they are doing something. I myself went with all forged internals wiseco 9:1 eagle h beams ACL race main and rod bearings and arp rod, head, and main studs/bolts. If your buying the block already put together I would ask for a piece of paper showing piston to wall clearance as well as your top and bottom ring gaps.

Anthony B.
 
the engine is coming from a really close friend of mine. I trust him. I forgot the mention that it will also be 9:1.

Really? shouldnt waste money on the 1 mm over sized valves? ill be replacing them all. Better to get oem ones?
 
The specs on my engine:

'95 Block bored to 86.5mm
'99 Cylinder head with stock valves
Manley 86mm 8.5:1 Pistons
Eagle H-beam Rods
Clevite P-Series Rod and Main bearings
Stock Crank cut .010 on the mains and .020 on the rods
BC 272 Cams
Manley Valve Springs
ARP Standard Head Studs
Stock Composite Head Gasket
Mitsubishi BSEK

Built everything myself, I only outsourced machine work. I have nearly 10k very hard miles on this block. For the last 4k I've been running 30-35psi from a Holset on E85, so I'm putting down at least 500hp at this altitude. Not a single internal issue yet (knock on wood) and it's taken more abuse than I ever expected.
 
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