The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G blew her up

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

HazeGST

Probationary Member
15
0
Aug 8, 2014
bealeton, Virginia
Hey guys. I just got a 95 talon tsi awd . She has a full 3" apexi n1 exhaust with 3" dp. Front and rear strut tower bars, injen turbo inlet pipe, k&n filter, autometer cobalt electronic boost. I opened her up on the way home and when the turbo goes over 15 psi she starts to sputter. I was stupid and kept driving her wide open. At around 130mph she sputtered bad and got really hot, when I got to the next stop sign she died and wouldn't come back on. Popped the hood and smoke was flying off the engine, oil was all over the driver side of the bay, and I could hear fluid boiling. I let her sit over night and cool down. Went down this morning and cleaned her up with brake cleaner and couldn't find any leaks. Now she will start up but dies when idling, if I give it just a bit of gas to keep it above 1k rpms she runs fine, but when I let her idle it drops to 200 or so and dies. I checked the fluids and everything seems fine, still has oil and coolant. Anybody have any ideas on what I blew up?
 
You most likely have a blown coupler or something isn't clamped down tight, letting in un-metered air. Check your intake piping, intercooler piping, and just to be sure pull off the intake and see if it's filled with oil, because you probably just blew the turbo. I wouldn't suggest trying to run it just to be on the safe side as you risk further damage from pieces of the turbine getting sucked inside the motor. Check the turbo for shaft play, tighten down all clamps, and make sure all the hoses are hooked up. Pics would help.
 
I came to this thread expecting a rod through a block, always love seeing those

/fail

Does sound like a boost leak or a blown gasket somewhere, theres a lot of things like pcv system yuo could be building too much crank case pressure and blowing oil out seals.

+ on the compression test too, would help say if anything internal went.
 
When I start her in idle my turbo Guage still shows it holding vacuum after 1k rpm. A friend suggested disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes and reconnecting to relearn the idle air. If that doesn't work I guess I am going boost leak hunting =D thanks for the responses guys[DOUBLEPOST=1408211433][/DOUBLEPOST]When I start her in idle my turbo Guage still shows it holding vacuum after 1k rpm. A friend suggested disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes and reconnecting to relearn the idle air. If that doesn't work I guess I am going boost leak hunting =D thanks for the responses guys
 
Hey guys. I just got a 95 talon tsi awd . She has a full 3" apexi n1 exhaust with 3" dp. Front and rear strut tower bars, injen turbo inlet pipe, k&n filter, autometer cobalt electronic boost. I opened her up on the way home and when the turbo goes over 15 psi she starts to sputter. I was stupid and kept driving her wide open. At around 130mph she sputtered bad and got really hot, when I got to the next stop sign she died and wouldn't come back on. Popped the hood and smoke was flying off the engine, oil was all over the driver side of the bay, and I could hear fluid boiling. I let her sit over night and cool down. Went down this morning and cleaned her up with brake cleaner and couldn't find any leaks. Now she will start up but dies when idling, if I give it just a bit of gas to keep it above 1k rpms she runs fine, but when I let her idle it drops to 200 or so and dies. I checked the fluids and everything seems fine, still has oil and coolant. Anybody have any ideas on what I blew up?
I'm not sure we're the oil came from but if when it warms up it dies mosthe likely it's your head gasket you warped tour head. Did smoke come out the exhaust when had your 130mph run[DOUBLEPOST=1408216702][/DOUBLEPOST]The same thing happen to me once on my 1g I warped the head bad, the needle got to the red, with an aluminum head that's not good
 
Didn't do a boost leak test cuz I don't have a spray bottle LOL. I did take off the air intake and it had a little oil in it. Cleaned it out completely and reassembled. Checked all the radiator piping and everything was good. Did a compression test and all clear. No oil or smoke came out of the exhaust during or after my run. I'm going to the store in the morning to get a spray bottle and do a boost leak check. I've never checked the intercooler piping before cuz the dam fuse box is in the way LOL. Can i check the intercooler piping just like a boost leak?
 
What comp numbers did you get? You should also go ahead and do the blt. Spray bottle is for those hard to find ones but you'll find the large ones easily.
ya i Can vouch for That. Soon as u add air u should hear leak if boost leak tester seals good
 
O.p. once you hook your blt up to the turbo intake you will be checking your ic pipes as well. This is why a boost leak test is such a valuable tool to have and do regularly. If your system can hold 20+psi on a blt your all good to go and if it can't. Well then better start fixing all the leaks! Lol
 
If you don't have a boost leak tester, you can make one easy enough. Use hair spray on the inside of the couplers on the tool when you put it on the turbo inlet. This will keep the tool attached with over 35+ psi in the system. Use an air compressor and start low. 5 pounds at a time. Listen at each step. Spray when and where necessary. Pay special attention to the injector seals, throttle body shaft seals, all vacuum lines, BOV, and the intercooler core itself... +1 on the PCV system also. Gotta check and fix this system if you want to keep the car. Add a good filtered catch can (not a cheapo E-Bay special, a GOOD one) between the turbo inlet snorkel and the valve cover where the PCV valve is and add a 3/8" check valve.
 
Wellp, I guess I was doing something wrong. I did another compression test and got 160 110 0 20, looks like I blew my head gasket. Time to tear her apart I guess =D
 
Oil could have come from anything that allows crankcase pressure to rapidly increase. I've seen pistons fail cruising at highway speeds and what happens next is usually a fire. It blows the dipstick out and starts shooting oil all over the bay. Not sure what happened in your bay(how much oil and where from is critical) but I would wager the engine is going to need a full tear down and rebuild.
Your comp numbers say head or valves
 
That kit is junk. I would get on www.jnztuning.com and get a composite oem headgasket, arp head studs and all the other gaskets. Call and talk to Paul he'll give you a good deal. If the timing belt on there isn't oem or a gates racing or hks I would order a gates racing.

15 pounds shouldn't have blown a head gasket but I've seen crazier things, I ran 30 pounds out of a 16g for quite a while on stock head bolts and head gasket. Make sure while you have it apart that everything looks good. Might look at the oil pump and water while your at it.
 
Thanks for the warning! I'm new to the DSM scene so I dont really have a clue of what im doing. I know I need a headgasket and head studs, what else do I need to order and replace?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top