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Big problems in the drivetrain

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DSM_Newblet

10+ Year Contributor
76
0
May 17, 2012
phoenix, Arizona
Alright so my 1997 gsx is having a lot of problems in the drive train somewhere (tranny, axles, transcase, rear diff, driveline all making noise) and to pin point the problem I thought it would be easiest to somehow make my 2g gsx into a fwd dsm just for diagnostic purposes, no long term use.
So my question is how can i make the car AWD to FWD easily and still be able to go back to AWD after testing or just go a separate route?? (ignore any typing errors I was trying to try fast and it was a lot LOL)

I'm going to list the problems with my car that just recently happened after the
e85 tune and my heavy foot LOL. I really hope one of you guys could help me out.
-when reversing semi hard there are a lot of popping noises right after another until I stop. Maybe coming from rear diff or Tcase.
-when turning left or right there is a HUGE resistance in the wheels and it feels like the brakes are being applied but they are not and brings me to a complete stop even on a slight incline/decline street.
-when turning left or right there is a very loud pop from the front end almost like an axle fell out and popped back into the tranny. Also the inner tires on the turn lock up and chirp for a quick second.
-3rd and 4th have very little grind but didnt grind at all before this.
-when I first start rolling in 1st there is resistance and when I shift to 2nd and give it gas it's almost like it "thinks twice" and kind of stumbles then gets going.
-when driving straight at any speed the car seems to be held back a little. but the car still pulls great if you ease into it.
-when traveling at 65+ the car gets a little jerky and was never like that before.
-sounds like the rear diff is making a "whirling or wooshing noise"
-also I found out the other day that the subframe mount that holds the rear diff was bad. (replacing soon but very sure that is not the only problem)
-when i get on the gas hard in a higher gear the front end of the car makes a soft knocking noise and when I get off the gas hard there is a very loud knocking/grinding noise from what sounds like the Tcase.
-we put the car on stands and were turning the front wheels with out hands and it seemed like the opposite tire would only grab when it wanted to and would "let go" when changing direction of the tire.

I know there is a lot but I really need help and advice.
-
 
I have to drive it, it's my only way to work. A center diff? how much down time and money will I need for that? And any proper ways to check that it is the center diff for sure? And how does it affect the rear diff and make it make weird knocking/grinding noises? Sorry I'm full of questions LOL.
 
So my question is how can i make the car AWD to FWD easily and still be able to go back to AWD after testing or just go a separate route??
-

Disconnect the drive shaft LOL...did you happen to cause this by launching or what? Also it sounds like you have a few issues going on in the driveline. The thumping on deceleration could be the carrier bearings. The popping in corners could be a broken splines on a cv axel or worn center diff. Its what's mine did to me a while back. It would look something like this
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Ive never had any troubles with the front differential, maybe somebody else can chime in on this.
 

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Most of these problems happened at the same time (excluding the rear diff noise and knocking and grinding when reversing) and yes it was after a launch LOL. during the launch it felt like the clutch was slipping but it is a brand new clutch and I just found out that something like the axles being broken and slipping or something like that can simulate a clutch slip when the clutch is not slipping at all. I really do not think the clutch is slipping.
 
So you're saying if you had a flat tire you would drive it because you have to get to work? Right now the car is unsafe. At the very least I would drain the fluids and see if there are any obvious clues. If you're not a mechanic be prepared to spend some money.
 
So you're saying if you had a flat tire you would drive it because you have to get to work? Right now the car is unsafe. At the very least I would drain the fluids and see if there are any obvious clues. If you're not a mechanic be prepared to spend some money.

I would definitely hed his warnings. Its going to take time and the process of elimination to find out whats going on. As for the price of the repair, could cost a few $ or a few hundred. You wont know till you get under it.
 
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