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strange problems in the drivetrain

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tnl

15+ Year Contributor
73
0
Jul 12, 2008
Laverkin, Utah
I have been experiencing some issues that developed on the way home from work and got worse the next day.(55 mile round trip) have doing non stop research but keep getting mislead. so heres the problems

1.On the freeway 75mph-80mph i have been having a really bad vibration in the rear end of the car. when i slow down i don't feel it near as much until i am either accelerating to about 20mph or (decelerating from 20mph whether coasting to a stop, braking)

2.after a few minutes of driving i smell burnt gear oil. very very strong. so since i smelt this i drained my tranny, xcase, and rear differential. now when draining the rear diff the horrible burnt gear oil smell came out. refilled everything took car for a spin same problem without the smell.

3.now the last i noticed since the vibration started happening is that when i pull into say the gas station i pull in at an angle so that my bumper wont rub. while at the angle front right tire will be in the air and rear left will be in the air. now soon as the back tire comes off the ground it spins backwards. i tried turning in 360s very slowly. while turning right the rear inside tire would keep chirping.

non i have tried to tests. to try and determine my problem

the first one for the differential(i found it on here but cant remember where now)
1) lift one front wheel and try to turn it with the car in gear: you shouldn't be able to ... if you can, then either the front or center diff is gone.
2) lift one rear wheel are try to turn it with the car in gear (and the parking brake off, of course): you shouldn't ... if you can, then either the rear or center is gone.
Note that these tests assume that you have not snapped an axle. If you aren't sure, check them all first.When doing these tests, turn the wheel slowly but with some strength. There will be some slop, but if you can rotate the wheel more than 90 degrees, then the test was clearly failed. (Note to the confused: "failed" = wheel can be turned.)If the car fails #1 but passes #2, it's the front diff.If it fails both, it's the center.If it passes #1 but fails #2, it's the rear.



the second for the viscous coupler:
DSM Rear LSD Viscous Coupling revealed - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com

i have no idea if these test work however if they do my vc is bad.
any help would be greatly appreciated. i am kinda lost :confused:
 
its is coming from the rear. on that link to the other site it says theres a vc in the rear diff. i didnt know this or if that test is legit or not. did you happen to read thoese drivetrain test i said i tried? i dont know how to tell if my rear diff is shot. was no metal in the fluid when drained it. dont have time to drain it till saturday
 
k so i pulled apart the tranny to c if my center diff was blown and everything looks pretty good inside so therefor im really leaning towards the viscous in the rear diff. im not exactly positive how the lsd rear diff in a 2g works but if the viscous went out in the rear im assuming it may cause binding and excessive heat. so well see haha i'm sure ill be learning about how the rear end works once i tear into it this weekend. :thumb:
 
even though no one is ###### reading maybe this will help someone with a future problem. i pulled apart my center diff and inspected closely and saw that the thrust washer on the diff shaft had welded itself. i believe this to be part of the problem i was having. from what ive read my car was driving like it had a welded center diff. with the washer melted to the shaft i believe it would be basically a welded center. so i purchased the torrington upgrade from tre and will put it in this weekend and see if the problem is solved. if not ill continue tearing stuff apart.
 
Sorry for bringing my own dead thread up but i just realized how i hate reading through a thread and you read through pages and then you never find the results or what the problem was. So my problem besides my center diff welding itself was the viscous. I took one from a 1st gen swapped it in and my problems were solved. I'm assuming this is what caused the center diff to weld itself as well.:thumb:
 
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