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Big Problem after installing NEW Evo 3 Big 16G

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92 AWD ECLIPSE

15+ Year Contributor
109
1
Feb 2, 2004
Knoxville, Tennessee
Ok i just put on my new turbo 3 days ago, and for the first day did not even try to go past 1 psi of boost, cuz I also installed an ACT 2600. Well now anytime I go more than 50% throttle nothing happens, I see the boost go up, and I just bog and stutter, almost like the air is never reaching the engine. I have my AFC settings on Lo Th all at 0% and my A/F ratio is still good, never lean. My EGT temps are normal too! I do have RCs(550s) that I have not put in yet just because I wanted to break in the clutch before I start boosting heavily. All the gaskets for the turbo were replaced. Please Help before i start to do this :cry: . Thanks in advance.

Rob
 
I did a boost leak test a couple of hours ago, and thought that fixed it, cuz there was a small leak, but when i floored it in first, it bogged at 3K, then the power kicked in and the tires squeeled, then it bogged almost instantly after that. Could it be my CAS or crankshaft angle sensor?
 
So you say the turbo's building boost, and your A/F ratio is fine? So if thats correct its got to be ignition. Check for loose wires and stuff, you may of accidently bumped one while working under the hood, and its moving around when car is in motion.
 
yah man checked all the ignition connections, and the cas connections and everything else i could think of. Is it possilbe that it could be the maf, cuz i checked that, and for some reason there are no honeycombs, upper or lower. Could it be faulty injectors? I still have to put in my new ones. Thanks again for all the help guys.
 
I had a similar problem when I did my mods this winter, I had a boost leak and had the same symptoms as you. Once I fixed the boost leak and tried to drive the car it ran terrible, this was due to all of the junk on the plugs left behind from the super rich conditions. So I went back and changed the plugs to some NGKs and also changed the plug wires. I changed the wires because I was somewhat worried that the nasty electode and such on the plugs might have caused the spark to jump to the head walls due to the original plug wires. This cleaned my problem up and the car ran perfect afterwards.
 
ok, i will try replacing the plugs, and yeah the honeycombs have been out i guess since i have had the car. I have had this problem before, but i wasnt this consistent and it was usually just a boost leak. If my crankangle sensor was out though my idle would be terrible wouldnt it?
 
92 AWD ECLIPSE said:
ok, i will try replacing the plugs, and yeah the honeycombs have been out i guess since i have had the car. I have had this problem before, but i wasnt this consistent and it was usually just a boost leak. If my crankangle sensor was out though my idle would be terrible wouldnt it?

It probably woudnt idle. Do you, or know somebody, That has a good mas you could try? With no hc in the mas, it is really lean and needs to be fixed or richened up with an afc. Lower hc out will be fine but you need fuel control if the upper is removed.
 
can the honeycomb removal cause the car to hesitate when driving? it seems that after i did that removal a few days later the car seemed to misfire/hesitate when the gas was barely pushed in, but would never do it under partial throttle or WOT.
 
yah, it never happens at low throttle, only at 50-100%. And I am positive its not fuel cut. I now actually think it is my fuel pump, because it seems to happen less when the car is cold. So i am goin to re-wire it tonight, and put in the new injectors, and see where to go from there.
 
92awddsm said:
Probably not with the honeycombs removed from the mas. How much boost are you running?

Right now i am running the stock boost set on the new WA from the Evo 3, which is 6psi on mine.
 
You said your a/f ratio is good in the original post....what r u reading this with a wideband? Get that main honeycomb in the MAF!!! The car cant read your air intake w/o them. They create the little turbulence/vortex for the Karmen readings. Dont do anything else/mess with anything until you do this first. Sure you have fuel mgment in the form of the AFC right? but thats a piggyback and modifies the signal from the MAF before sending it to the ECU, and how is that going to work when it cant get the reading right in the first place :p Go grab a friends, go buy a good one, that one is trash w/o the upper honeycomb! :thumb: that is the most obvious problem as of now....

oh and fuel cut feels like the car shuts off, not hesitation. if your accel. it feels like you hit a wall and you look for your trans behind you when it happens :cool: haha.
 
I would have to agree, there is a high probability the honeycomb is your problem, I took mine out by accident and it ran like butt, it took me all of 3 seconds to figure out that that was a bad idea.
 
so removal of the honeycomb from the MAF sensor can make the car run like ass, because mine hesitates at partial throttle and it feels like the car is chocking, once in a while it will buck real hard :thumbdown
 
Awesome, thanks alot guys for all the help. I already ordered a used MAF, unhacked, so hopefully this will help. If it all works out, i will let you know how the evo 3 performs at the track. :thumb:

Rob
 
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