2G Big Brake Swaps. Looking for list.

[Artago]

I searched until my fingers bled and couldn't find a list of Big Brake Swaps for the 2G.
I'm pretty certain I've seen a list somewhere but I can't find it.
Maybe a mod can help point me in the right direction?

Here's what I can remember.
1. 3000gt
2. CTS-V
3. Cobra?
4. Outlander (bracket swap with OEM calipers)

Thanks.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Evos are very popular aswell, sont know how that was missed as its very well searched and done on here,

 

[Artago]

Evos are very popular aswell, sont know how that was missed as its very well searched and done on here,

Totally forgot about the Evos. Do you happen to have a link to a good write up for it?

1. 3000gt
2. CTS-V
3. Cobra?
4. Outlander (bracket swap with OEM calipers)
5. Evo

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/evo-8-10-brembo-calipers-dsm-conversion-for-1g-too.364435/

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

That a big thread and should keep you reading for a while . There are 2 ways around using evo brembos, brackets or knuckles, just depends in your liking and what your willing to modify.

It depends what you want from your brakes aswell, if i was you i would not bother with the outlander stuff, look into the 4 piston calipers as they will be much better in all around performance stopping.

 

[Artago]

I remember reading that thread a long time ago. It seems like a lot of grinding. Is there an upgrade path that's more "bolt-on" and go?

I was looking at the Strictly kit.
http://strictlyperformance.parts/sh...l-brake-kits/strictly-dsm-cts-v-big-brake-kit
I assume it bolts up without grinding?

I found this write up but it requires mild grinding to the calipers.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-cts-v-big-brake-kit-on-13-rotor-for-less-than-600.505692/

Any idea why the Strictly kit doesn't require grinding but the home brew method does?
What's the difference?

 

[er82]

Several kits.

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/home.php?cat=746

 

[Artago]

Will the CTS-V route require bigger wheels? I currently run 17x7

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

The ctsv kit is a bolt on and uses a spacer and any caliper like a 4 pot required a 17" wheel, the only thing we cannot get exact is the offset for you all, the evos are ET38 so thats a good start to get close to for choosing wheels

 

[AdR]

Any idea why the Strictly kit doesn't require grinding but the home brew method does?
What's the difference?

Hi, I wrote the homebrew version. The reason strictly's version doesn't require grinding is because they put a spacer in between the hub and rotor that moves the whole rotor and wheel outward by 5mm instead of moving the caliper backwards by 5mm as I did. Using the spacer has a few effects:

1. Hides the hub's centric ring that usually pokes from the rotor hub centering hole forcing all wheels to be bolt centric which isn't ideal.
2. Reduces the threads of the oem wheel studs contact with the nuts. I'd highly recommend getting longer studs.
3. Pushes the wheel by 5mm and the caliper's position as well. This is a big caliper and needs as much space as possible. Wheel width and offset are very important, if you go with 17x9 35mm offset wheels which are as large as you can get without poking out of the fenders you end up with a 30mm offset wheel (due to the 5mm push outward) effect which produces some wheel poke. If you get a 40mm offset wheel to compensate chances are depending on the spoke design that the bbk might not fit.

Will the CTS-V route require bigger wheels? I currently run 17x7

Minimum you will need spacers. The CTS-V caliper is very similar to the Evo caliper. Usually 17x8 38mm wheels with flat spokes fit but it is very dependent on spoke design and the internal dimension of the wheel drum. 17x9's with 35mm offset fit in most of the cases (except Enkeis RPF 1's due to spoke design). It is a very complicated subject as there is no one size fits all scenario. I can vouch for Koseis K6R's in 17x9 35mm as that is what I have. Enkeis RPF1's in 17x8 30mm fit as their spoke design is different than the x9's and Evo wheels fit. Everything else is a trial and error.

 

[Airsign89]

It's an odd one but there is also the early 95 rear vented brake rotor: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/early-95-rear-brake-thread-discussion-pn.469725/
It might pair well with the outlander front upgrade. Just a thought.

 

[Artago]

I think I'm going to go with the Outlander conversion. It's simple and I don't have to worry about my rims.

I was thinking of getting the brackets from JNZTuning:
https://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=3570

Maybe these rotors to go with it?
https://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=3572

My calipers could use a rebuild but I don't think I can trust my self to do it properly.
Should I buy a reman set or try to find reasonably prices OEM set.

Does anyone know's who sells dual piston reman units or OEM units?

 

[Dhan]

Does anyone know's who sells dual piston reman units or OEM units?

Rockauto probably sells them.

I got some reman DSM dual piston calipers when I upgraded my 1g's single pistons. Just search the Mitsubishi Outlander drop-down section on their site.

Along with removing ABS and redoing the lines, it's all the braking I'll ever need. Just be careful at first. I locked up my wheels and threw the car into a slide on the highway a little after I did the swap. Learned that lesson the hard way.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

If you want the brackets, you have a couple of ways to go about this:

• JNZ brackets and rebuilt calipers (I prefer Centric) from Rockauto.

• Shop around for used brackets and rebuild your current calipers. (Rebuild parts from Rockauto).

• Buy semi-loaded calipers for an Outlander from Rockauto. This would come with the caliper brackets, hardware, and calipers. This would be cheaper than purchasing new caliper brackets and rebuilt caliper separately.

On rebuilt calipers, I have noticed that whatever coating comes on them dissipates rather quickly. If this bothers you, I may suggest re-coating them with a caliper paint of choice (clear or color). For rotors, I would recommend Centric blanks (regular or high-carbon). They will handle anything you can throw at them with Hawk HPS or HP+ pads. AutoAnything is a great place for rotors/pads as they commonly have sales and free shipping. Lastly, whichever method you go about sourcing calipers, take out the slide-pins and re-lubricate them with Sil Glyde.

This tool is the best investment for a dual piston caliper:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-25750-Piston-Caliper-Compressor/dp/B0002SQUTU