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Best cams for EVO 16G or TD05H 20G

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Bleakley

Proven Member
403
97
Jan 29, 2017
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Title pretty much says it all. What cams do you guys recommend?
Normally I wouldn't even post this. I googled and searched though, not too much found for current day options...

The HKS cams no longer exist (basically), which is what i probably would have went with. I see DELTA as an option, but I've always viewed regrind as nono...
Kelfords seem like the best option, currently. But I see mixed reviews. Early to mid 2000's people were talking mad crap on their quality. Now it seems like they got it together... I know the Nissan guys use their big cams a lot for BIG power...

I'm looking for a powerful midrange, mostly. Car is mostly street driven. I'm in the middle of upgrading the car for the EVO III 16G and wanted some opinions as I wasn't finding the information I wanted / needed via searching. Want something VERY WELL mannered for the street. Not looking for a camshaft with a high powerband. But I def would want to open up the top end a little more and def need something for more hp than the stockers...

I guess worth noting... Planned work for the build..
Extrude hone stock 2g intake manifold
2G (52mm) to 1G (60mm) throttle body upgrade
Small port & polish on the head (intake & exhaust)
Adjustable cam gears
Supertech +0.5mm intake valves
Supertech +0.5mm exhaust valves
new valve guides
new valve seals

Planned target of 375whp+. Would really like over 400, but sounds like that's quite the chore on TD05H 20G..
 
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I thought forced performance didn't make cams anymore?
Also still deciding between stock 2g manifold extrude honed and machined for 1g 60mm TB or going with an EVO III manifold and having that extrude honed and machined for 60mm TB as well.
 
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I was more or less just giving examples, if you had a sheet metal intake I'd say get some 272s, or if you ever plan on growing your setup. But I'd say some 264s would give an awesome powerband with the stock intake and the 7cm housing. And for your setup if your looking to save some cash, you don't need oversized valves. People run the stock size up in the 600s without issues. And our heads really don't need much if any porting, just polishing does great.
 
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I'll keep it in mind.
And exactly my point of the thread. I'm well aware of what I COULD HAVE WENT WITH. (HKS 264's, or 264/272, 272/264, FP's, etc.). I'm after what's available, new, now..
Sucks HKS up and stopped making cams. Such a crock...

Def not going sheet metal IM
Highest I plan on going is TD05H 20G or 68HTA. Unless I hit some money (TS GTX3076R).
The head could use refreshed. While I'm in there/while it's off I'd prefer to not take it off again. I think 0.5mm oversize is perfect for what I'm after. (Shifting powerband a little to the right while looking for great flow gains throughout the curve). Not just after a peak number...
 
fp doesnt they havent made cams for a while now they were a great cam but look around people do sell them from time . the fpcam 2 will offer power to equivelant to the hks 272 cams, and idle wont suffer as much. I got my hks 272s from canada im gonna run these with my holset but ill upgrade next year when i make some changes to the engine. the fp 1 am will have slighly longer duration and higher lift than stock, the cam wiork will at increaseing power and torque.
 
From my experience I ran a tdo5h 20g on my 1g last summer with the stock intake and cams and the torque hit was insane, but the power fell off and the car felt restricted above 6k, so I tossed some comp 101200s in (similar to a 272) and made the mid range more sluggish, but the gains were pretty impressive from 4500-7000, if I kept that turbo I would have swapped in 264s for sure for a street beast.
 
Same setup on my car, with a td05. Last year I was running kelford s2 cams, and the power up top was good but low and mid end suffered. This year I switched to fp1s and I couldn't be happier, I would strongly suggest looking for a set
 
The whole idea behind the design of the 2G head, is that it's a "raised port" design. This helps with air velocity, which can improve low-end HP and torque. Potential benefits include:

* The higher the air flow speed, the better the air/fuel mixture is atomized. This improve the combustion process.
* The higher velocity improves the combustion chamber 'swirl'. The 'swirl' distributes the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber, improving the combustion process.
* The higher the velocity, the greater the inertia of the air flow. This helps fill the cylinder to its maximum, improving the VE (volumetric efficiency).

The vantage point the incoming air has to the back of the intake valve is sometimes referred to as the angle of attack. Due to its added height, a raised-runner head simply has a better angle of attack or vantage point for a straighter shot to the back of the valve. The added height also reduces the angle of the turn that the incoming charge must negotiate. The geometry of a raised-runner port is superior to a similar nonraised runner design, since it allows additional airflow and a higher terminal velocity before it stalls or backs up.

I would stick with a 264 combo. But if your considering a 20g in the end maybe think about some 272. But with your plans for the head says you plan on having great airflow and the 2g head is great at it. Not sure why you don't want to consider a smim especially if you want all this work done on the head why not go with a smim. Comp cams are a great consideration.

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#MITSUBISHI
 
I have same turbo and I bought(sweet deal) the Webb 546/547 cams. They are similar to the hks 264's. Also, a user recently posted Dyno info on his small 16g on here a few days ago. Find it and look at his cam info. I believe that even with a 20g the 264's or a variant will be okay together but anything bigger turbo wise might hurt those cams in the end.
 
Same setup on my car, with a td05. Last year I was running kelford s2 cams, and the power up top was good but low and mid end suffered. This year I switched to fp1s and I couldn't be happier, I would strongly suggest looking for a set
Looking for NEW. Used cams is just a risky ordeal.

For anyone wanting the fp1, or fp2 cams, get comp 101100's or 101200's.
Okay, will definitely look into it.


I would stick with a 264 combo. But if your considering a 20g in the end maybe think about some 272. But with your plans for the head says you plan on having great airflow and the 2g head is great at it. Not sure why you don't want to consider a smim especially if you want all this work done on the head why not go with a smim. Comp cams are a great consideration.

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#MITSUBISHI
Switching from the stock 2g manifold to a sheet metal manifold (JMF for example) shifts the powerband to the right (higher RPM's) due to the shorter runners. Good manifold and I'm sure great gains up top. It's just not what I am after..
Opening up the stock 2g intake runners via extrude hone while maintaining length, again, shifts powerband to the right a little bit AND increases flow.

The entire package I'm trying to put together focuses on lots of numbers under the entire curve.. I'm trying to keep what lows I can, have a GREAT midrange, while not running out of too much steam up top.
 
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Another option is swapping the 2g stock IM for the Evo 3 IM, still gives you good low while opening up the top end a little. I currently run the Evo 3 IM with Kelford 264's and a FP HTA76, the response is amazing with great top end. Also swapping to the Evo 3 IM will save you the money of honing and porting the 2g IM.

Personally I would keep the cams down in the mild 264 range. You will gain a little up top while losing very little low end. I would look for a used set of HKS 264's or equivalent cam(FP1).
 
I would skip the extrude honing on the intake manifold too. Waste of money in my opinion. Ive seen the process done a few times and all its good for is to take the inside of your intake from a rough cast finish to smooth one. Dont expect to gain any real airflow out of it. If they run the process long enough to take out any real material it isnt being removed the same from all surfaces and can actually hurt airflow in some cases by creating turbulance. It is in no way a real port job like you would get from someone doing it by hand that knows what they are doing.
 
@Boomdeeze - I was looking into the EVO III intake a little, not much though. Wasn't sure how worth it it would be. Is the TB bore 52 or 60? I really like the idea of just taking off the stock manifold, having it extrude honed, bolting it back on. Lol.
I don't currently have the funds, but when I do the head would be sent off only AFTER the extrude honing of the intake manifold so as to ensure a perfect port match...

@94awdcoupe - Really not concerned with HKS or FP cams man. I can't get them new. We all know they were great cams for our cars....
Anyways, I literally only glanced at Tomei's cams. I'll give them another look. They offer a set for the 2G heads?

@95REGF150, sir - If i have to find it, I eventually will, but a member on zilvia extrude honed both an intake for an sr20 AND an intake for a dsm (do not remember if 1g or 2g) and dyno'd it. The results, I agree, weren't the most impressive, but he still gained just about everywhere.
That's good enough for me....
It's REALLY hard to get the entire manifold by hand anyways, and I'm not really looking for a massive port job anyways.

So I've looked into Comp Cams and I think those are the cams I am going to go with.
If I'm reading the specs right it seems the 1011's are basically the same duration as stock, but the lift is higher. Not sure what other specs are the same or different.. Def on track with what I'm after.
It's gonna be hard deciding between those and the 1012's...
 
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Title pretty much says it all. What cams do you guys recommend?
Normally I wouldn't even post this. I googled and searched though, not too much found for current day options...

The HKS cams no longer exist (basically), which is what i probably would have went with. I see DELTA as an option, but I've always viewed regrind as nono...
Kelfords seem like the best option, currently. But I see mixed reviews. Early to mid 2000's people were talking mad crap on their quality. Now it seems like they got it together... I know the Nissan guys use their big cams a lot for BIG power...

I'm looking for a powerful midrange, mostly. Car is mostly street driven. I'm in the middle of upgrading the car for the EVO III 16G and wanted some opinions as I wasn't finding the information I wanted / needed via searching. Want something VERY WELL mannered for the street. Not looking for a camshaft with a high powerband. But I def would want to open up the top end a little more and def need something for more hp than the stockers...


Kelford 272s case closed. I make 361/362 with a small 16g on e-85. The power band is nice even if you can't rev it out and if you go bigger in the future you wont have to swap cams. I mostly drive my car on the street.
 
I believe I would have hit 400+ hp easy with a Big 16g and the kelford 272s. Either way you go I think that set up will work for you. Corn fed that 20g and post some numbers !
 

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i am up in elevation and I ran a big 16 set up with non turbo 4g63 cams with stock 1g intake with just little port work and some polishing of head and made 400hp and 420tq. just some added imput. great little street setup.
 
I think it's worth mentioning I am automatic transmission and prefer to stay that way. A cam that shifts the powerband too high up would be almost worthless to me. I'd be fighting the transmission all the time. Lol.

@GoCanes777 - The above being said. Kelford 272's are definitely out. However, I have looked at their 258/264 and 264/260 sets and would consider those. I really want to consider them an option because I like the looks of their products they're offering, but am hesitant due to the poor reviews I've seen in the past...
Nice numbers in that small 16g.
I don't see how you could hit 400 with a big 16g? There's no way. You mean 'EVO III' big 16g? (Even then, by my interpretations of the map, ~375whp @ 24psi is REALLY, R E A L L Y pushing it...)

@Boomdeeze - THANKS!!! for that info sir!
 
Ideally you dont want to just toss in a set of cams without dialing them in with some adjustable cam gears. You dont have to for certain cams like HKS, heck you dnt have to for any type of cam, but I would suggest going straight to a 272 variant rather than 264s just for this reason. You can make a 272 have similar low end characteristics to the 264s (to a degree) by playing with cam timing
 
@GoCanes777 - The above being said. Kelford 272's are definitely out. However, I have looked at their 258/264 and 264/260 sets and would consider those. I really want to consider them an option because I like the looks of their products they're offering, but am hesitant due to the poor reviews I've seen in the past...
Nice numbers in that small 16g.
I don't see how you could hit 400 with a big 16g? There's no way. You mean 'EVO III' big 16g? (Even then, by my interpretations of the map, ~375whp @ 24psi is REALLY, R E A L L Y pushing it...)

Makes sense to go a different way dealing with the auto transmission sorry if I missed that LOL. I feel I would hit 400 with either set up spiking the small 16g to 28psi got me to 370 but it falls off at the higher rpms. It's been awhile since I researched the difference but I think the 16g flows about 2 pounds more a min.
 
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