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BC 272 cams question

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gswOwner

Probationary Member
21
0
Feb 3, 2009
Trea, Indiana
My buddy has a set of 272 cams that he doesn't want--- is there anything besides the cams themselves you need for instal on stockish gsx?

Thanks guys/gals
 
yeah a whole bunch of stuff, your better off just sending them to me, LOL, jk.

they should be direct drop ins. but I have a habit of changing everything at once, so I would do adjustable cam gears, timing belt, lifters, and paint the vc if its not already. but thats just me
 
As long as they are for dsm and not evo8-9, they should drop right in. check out vfaq.com for install or plymouthlaser.com as well. I'd recommend putting a new timing belt and bs belt if yours has some mileage on it as well as a new valve cover gasket
 
They'll fit, and you'll be rewarded with a nice, lumpy idle....but that's about it. Cams may actually make your car feel slower as they'll rob low-end torque in exchange for top-end pull; something a T25's not well noted for.

Another thing to consider is there are guys with 16G's that have trouble with boost dropping off in the higher RPM's with cams....this is already a problem for the T25 with stock cams, so I'm sure it will only be worse.

I'd suggest getting them and either reselling / trading them for some parts you may really want, or putting them on the shelf until you mod your car to the level where it would benefit from cams. If you're storing them for a long period of time, coat them very well with WD40 and wrap them in a heavy paper (not newspaper), then wrap the paper with saran wrap to provide a moisture barrier. If the cams get rusty, they're useless.
 
So really it sounds like it's not a good mod- my goal is about 350hp for daiy driver until I get another vehicle.


Bigger injectors
AMS
Turbo
Cams

I figured that would be good ?
 
If you're only shooting for 350hp you don't even need the cams, the stock cams would be fine, but so you don't limit flow, i would say sell the 272's and get yourself a more streetable 264/272 cam setup.
 
My car is daily driven and i run the 264/272 DKS cams by FFWD, they are nice but honestly looking back i wish i would have gotten the 272/272 combo because there was no effect on driving at all with the 164 intake and i think the extra 272 instead might have made better power *shrugs*
 
according to your profile, your car is a 95. You'll need to drill and tap the intake cam for the CAS on the 95.
The CAS reads from the intake cam gear on 95-96's. Only the '97-'99's need the intake cam to be drilled, and some aftermarket cams are already drilled for the CAS on these models.
 
272's are very streetable. I would be more worried about a clutch than cams. The only problem i ever have with my cams is driving in parking lots at say 900rpms or 1000rpms in first, the ride is a bit jerky, but from stop light to stop light i can't tell i have cams except or the nice idle. "you got a v8 in there?" -passing rednecks
 
I have also experience very little loss at low end. The only downside for me is that it's a bit loud and it snarls and spits at idle and makes everyone at lights stare at me like I'm a freakshow.
 
It is recommended that you replace the valve springs also if you do the cams. Not highly necessary though if you are revving only to 7.5k.
 
It is recommended that you replace the valve springs also if you do the cams. Not highly necessary though if you are revving only to 7.5k.
BC claims that you can use the stock springs and retainers with the 272s. The 280s require upgrades. However, there is no reason not to upgrade unless you can't really afford it.
 
Something I want to Add to the "If you store them", That is you do sit them on a shelf.. Jusmx is right with lubing them heavily. But heres where I want to add.. Dont use WD40, Use a wheel bearing or lithium based grease.
Wd40 tends to evaporate over time leaving them untreated, Thus rusting..
I have personal experience with this. A friend bought a entire rebuild kit including aftermarket rocker's, lifters, cams, and had his crank turned, balenced and polished. He sprayed them with WD40 once a week while they sat in a box in his garage. Heforgot about them fr like a month, went back and they all had rusted beyond use.

I do agree to coat them just not WD40 if it will be longer then a few weeks.
 
The "carrier" will evaporate out of WD40, but it should still leave an oily film which will be more than enough to protect the cams if they're wrapped and protected as I mentioned above.

The stock cams from my FWD were sprayed with WD40, wrapped in automotive masking paper, and sealed with plain old generic Saran Wrap over 2 years ago and they've survived two damp PA winters without a single rust spot.
 
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