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Balance Shaft

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Drift4G63

Probationary Member
20
0
Mar 8, 2004
Milford, Michigan
1991 AWD TSI----So I have myself a little dilemma. My oil cooler decided to gap(unscrew itself), I lost all of my oil, but caught the problem soon enough not to cause any damage to anything serious but one of my balance shafts decided to seize up. So I’ve been on that now and let me tell you what it is a SOB to change. Well I just got all my new bearings and such in. But I ran into a couple problems and/or questions. First off the tool that u need to remove/install the bearing is discontinued so first I wanted to ask perhaps someone knows any alternatives. Today I was planning on making my own tool but got a little lazy. Second off I’ve always known that there have been balance shaft removal kits. I know Mach V sells one. Basically I’m at debate whether or not to remove them completely. Has anyone done this? What kits are the best and when can I buy them? Thanks for your help any help you may provide is appreciated.


Tom
 
Ahhh yes the balance shafts. Well, I bought the kit from www.dsmparts.com when i did my head rebuild the FIRST time. Never got around to removing them until the 2nd rebuild and doing it while the engine is INSIDE the car is quite annoying.

I dont remember exaclt how we got the new bearings in but making sure they block the hole is defenitly a plus.


There is a vfaq for removing the shafts. If you follow those directions exactly you should have no problem doing the mod. Everyone claims that the car shakes after but on BOTH of my motors the engine runs much smoother than it did with the shafts. All I did was simply purchase the kit and follow the vfaq

www.vfaq.com




Good luck! :D
 
just remover them. vfaq has the part #'s http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html I orderd mine from http://www.worldparts.com/tallmits they have great prices on mitsu parts.

just ask for the b-shaf eliminator kit minus the front bearing . you can leave that bearing in, becasue there is no oil line to plug. like $30 or so, i cant reamber.

ps. i cant reamber if its the front or rear bearing that need plugged. pretty sure its jut the rear. double check before ordering.
 
You don't need a "kit". just leave the front shaft in with the belt off. Then just buy the stub shaft and the new gaskets/seals. Takes alot less time, doesn't risk excessive oil pressure or potential leaks.
 
Steve93Talon said:
You don't need a "kit". just leave the front shaft in with the belt off. Then just buy the stub shaft and the new gaskets/seals. Takes alot less time, doesn't risk excessive oil pressure or potential leaks.

You don't even have to buy a stub shaft - take the rear shaft out and use a grinder or a bandsaw to cut it down to 1.5" or so. Run a tap all the way down the length of the shaft and use a longer bolt in the oil pump gear side (with locktite of course) to close up the oiling hole in the shaft.
 
How safe is it to leave in the front shaft?? I just purchased a used engine and a BS removal kit...should i just use the stubby shaft out of the kit? :talon:
 
huafist said:
You don't even have to buy a stub shaft - take the rear shaft out and use a grinder or a bandsaw to cut it down to 1.5" or so. Run a tap all the way down the length of the shaft and use a longer bolt in the oil pump gear side (with locktite of course) to close up the oiling hole in the shaft.
It would be much safer to get the stubby shaft because if you cut off the balance shaft, if it is unbalaced at all it could screw up your oil pump, and possibly locking it up. The kit is only $40, why cheap out and possibly ruin you engine?
 
Steve93Talon said:
You don't need a "kit". just leave the front shaft in with the belt off. Then just buy the stub shaft and the new gaskets/seals. Takes alot less time, doesn't risk excessive oil pressure or potential leaks.


Leaving the front shaft in is a bad idea. The oil grooves on the shaft dont go the whole way around the shaft for a reason. When the front shaft doesnt spin like when the BS belt is broken you will have VERY LOW oil pressure at idle which can cause damage.

The onyl way would be to weld the b-shaft in place where the oil groove is not lined up with the feed hole and that is a pain.


Later
 
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